• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 1998년도 가을 학술발표회논문집
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• pp.360-364
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• 1998

지금까지, 천의 주관적인 태평가는 역학적인 특성에 의하여 결정된다고 연구되고 있다. 특히 KES-FB 시스템은 천의 역학적인 특성을 통계학적인 방법으로 객관화한 소프트웨어이다[1], 대체적으로 직물에 비해 편성물은 측정의 어려옴, 지역적인 기후특성, 문화적인 차이 때문에 태를 평가하는데 적용하기 난해한 면이 있다[2]. 종합적인 태는 천의 사용 용도와 사람의 정신적인 특성에 대한 반영이 개입되어야 하므로 적용하기에 곤란하지만, 최근에 응용되고 있는 퍼지이론과 신경망이론을 통하여 전체적인 태평가가 가능하리라 본다. (중략)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

This research was designed to compare the subjective evaluation of Hand between on- and off-line by structure and sensible characteristics of fabric. 113 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the subjective evaluation of Hand of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. T-test and pearson correlation coefficient were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study were as follows: The results of correlation analysis of the evaluation score indicated that Crash and Satin show high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. But, fabrics which have distinct characteristics such as Plush, Dobby, Seersucker represented low correlation coefficient. The results of t-test fer the difference of the evaluation score showed that thin fabrics like Organdy represent a large difference between on- and off-line evaluation. On the other hand, twill weaved fabrics like Drill, Tweed, Saxony did not show many differences. Analysing each item in terms of correlation of evaluation of hand between on- and off-line gave results that the shininess was most deliverable through on-line and density and the dryness was not so deliverable through on-line. Comparison of evaluation score between on- and off-line items showed that the estimation to real fabric is more negative than that of on-line. The results of most preferable hand between on-and off-line showed exact opposite preference between shinny, smooth and soft Satin and rough, woolen Tweed. Organdy showed the most different subjective evaluation of hand in real ones compared with that of on-line.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권8호
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• pp.1139-1148
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• 1999

This paper discussed the assessment of hand of denim fabrics finished by enzymatic hydrolysis. The semantic differential scale established using the database collected from university students. Analyzing the subjective rating by common factor analysis with oblimin rotation five factors expressing the hand were induced. Factor one was the surface property related to the surface roughness or softness Factor two was the durability which was related to the compactness and bearing strength Factor three was the sense of weight which was related to the thickness and weight. The moisture related properties and the sense of shape recovery were the forth and fifth factors respectively. the evaluations on the surface property weight and moisture related properties were similar by men and women However the shape recovery and the durability were evaluated differently. Surface and weight related properties were important factors judging the hand of fabrics by both group.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 1999년도 춘계학술발표논문집 논문집
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• pp.219-219
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• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.784-789
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was to analyze how the evaluation method affects the subjective hand evaluation of fabrics and to suggest the efficient evaluation method. Three methods such as the sense of sight ＆ touch, the sense of touch, and the sense of sight were respectively used when judges estimated the hand of fabrics using questionnaire. The result obtained by the method of touch was same as that by the method of sight ＆ touch. The time required for the evaluation by these two methods was statistically same. Consequently, the method of touch has no attraction compared to that of touch ＆ sight. In case of using the method of sight, 8 properties among 10 showed the same results as in the method of sight ＆ touch. The properties of [moogupda/kabyupda] and [shinchuksung-e-itda/ shinchuksung-e-upda] evaluated with the sense of sight were different from the results obtained by the other methods. These properties seem to be difficult to evaluate only by seeing the fabric on the table. For the precise evaluation, it is necessary to show dynamic movement of the fabric. The time required for the evaluation by the sense of sight was shorter than that by the other two methods.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.57-67
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to find out the better washing condition, especially on detergent contents to satisfy the consumer's concern on fabric hand using Drum Type Washer. The hand and preference of washed fabrics by various detergent contents were analyzed through subjective evaluation using questionnaire method in dry and wet state. Wine rank's semantic differential scale questions were developed with 27 kinds of adjective pairs and seven rank's scale questions were to evaluate preference of washed fabrics oil holistic touch, washing and rinsing effect and purchase intention of detergent. Group of trained panelists and untrained women panelists of $30{\sim}40$ years old were participated. The factors affecting consumer's taste for the washed fabrics were analyzed by SPSS 12.0. Smoothness showed relatively higher correlation with preference of washed fabrics on holistic touch, washing and rinsing effect and purchase intention of detergent. There were significant differences in preference of washed fabrics on holistic touch, washing and rinsing effect and purchase intention of detergent by detergent contents when tested in wet state. Fabrics washed with detergents of non-zeolite were appeared to be the preferred ones.