• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.109-124
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• 2018

This study focused on the accessory of clothes of minority groups in Yunnan province to further the research about specific accessories' development in the future. Among the minorities in Yunnan, this study centralized characteristics of ornaments, hats and belts among five minority groups such as the Bai, Zhuang, Hani, Dai, and the Zang as representatives to study in detail because these five ethnicities have a relatively long history and plentiful information. The results are as follows: First, exaggeration means large gorgeous patterns that attract attention. Generally, there are many natural resources that can be used in places where these minority groups live such as gems, gold, silver shells and animals' horns, bone, teeth and the like. Headdress includes combs, loops, hairpins and other similar articles. Second, nature is a very fundamental part that people rely on for existence and development. The production and living that people need in life all depend on nature. The design of accessories is made from animal forms and patterns of clothes are presented through embroidery and wax printing. Designers always tried to add natural elements to their works. Third, symbolism consists of two aspects: One is the people's imagination, which related to actual materials, and the other is the product of imagination that provides better conditions to inspire people when they design. In China, most minority groups believe in Buddhism. The symbols in the clothing show their devout faith. Even the method of wear has many special implications like the use of accessories and length of clothing. The pattern of dragons and use of golden, red and other colors all have a proper symbolic significance in modern designs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.35-49
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• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.61-74
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• 2005

Wonsam, a type of korean women's gown in Choseon Dynasty, was used as a small ceremonial costume for queens, crown princesses and princesses and as a grand ceremonial costume for royal concubines and wives of high rank officials. It was also worn as a wedding dress for commoners. In the families of illustrious officials, it was also used as burial accessories or garments for the dead. In this context, Wonsam is a formal dress for the people's most important four ceremonies of coming-of-age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor worship. It is worth emphasizing the costume since it was widely and importantly used by all ranks of women, from royal families to commoners. Through the Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's, we can see what the society was like at the end of Choseon Dynasty. First, a status system that strictly divided costumes for each class, was, in many parts, broken down. Second, the highly wrought patterns and texture of fabrics of the Wonsam reveal that it was granted from Court, or, if woven by the Kim family, it is considered to be produced by the Court's craftsman or through technical transfer, considering that the weaving skills used are as good as those in Courts. Third, regarding the precise needlework that is uncomparable to textiles used by other illustrious officials families, the Wonsam is considered to be granted from Court or, produced through the needlework skills that were handed down from needlewomen in Courts. The Wonsam of An-dong Kim Clan's has noble beauty in it, with outstanding weaving skills, fabrics, needlework and shape. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that it has those qualities to be the standard costume that inherits the tradition of Korean people.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.15-24
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• 2003

매년 엄청난 규모의 광고비가 광고의 제작과 집행에 투여되고 있는 현실에서 광고가 생산적인 사회적 장치로 자리잡기 위해서는 투입에 상응하는 효과가 있어야 함은 당연하다. 이와 같은 맥락에서 광고의 효과를 더욱 높이기 위하여 끊임없이 연구되어지고 개선되어지는 부분이 바로 광고의 표현 전략이며, 신문광고에 있어서 Spread광고 역시 이 노력의 일환으로 이해되어지고 있다고 할 수 있다. 본 연구는 신문광고의 대형화 현상이 날로 증대되고 있는 시점에서 이러한 현상이 광고인과 소비자 집단을 만족시키는가에 대한 검증으로 시작되었으며, 신문광고의 표현 전략으로서 Spread광고가 이용되고 있다는 점에서, 표현 방법을 중점으로, 보다 효율적인 해결 방안을 찾아보기 위한 것이 본 연구의 목적이다. 이를 위하여 이론적 배경을 위해 신문광고의 조형적 요소를 기준으로 표현 방법 및 표현 형태별로 분석하였으며, 조선일보를 선정하여 사례 분석을 통해 각 유형이 실제 제작에 있어 어떻게 집행되는지를 분석하였다. 또한 바람직한 분석을 위한 지침을 마련하기 위하여 설문 조사를 병행하였다. 연구 결과 Spread광고는 표현 방법과 넓은 스페이스의 효율적인 활용, 그리고 광고 목표를 정확히 분석하여 적합한 방향으로 활용되어져야 할 것으로 생각된다. 무분별한 Spread광고는 비싼 광고료에 비하여 두 배 이상의 시너지 효과를 주지 못하는 것을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.506-517
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• 2014

A bag is a daily article carried in one's hand or on one's shoulder for things as well as a fashion item. The functions of a bag were derived to include portability, decorativeness, brand identity, message communicability and cultural identity. Souvenir bags sold at a gallery or a museum are goods to maximize the cultural identity of a bag based on national emblems, exhibitions and characters as design motifs. Based on the typological analysis of souvenir bags showing cultural identity, this study developed a design with a motif of Hanbok from Korean traditional cultural content to develop a tote bag design that reveals Korean cultural identity. Under a traditional Hanbok motif colors, sizes and patterns were reinterpreted in a modern perspective. For such a research purpose, 8 kinds of tote bags were developed. A tote bag design that reflects Korean cultural identity will contribute to raising the potential to develop cultural goods that are modern, popular and differentiated in the global market.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2007

Korea has a dark age in terms of culture in the last 20th century. Korea had been struggling between the Great Powers of the world in the imperialism and had sacrifice to keep our own culture itself. Japanese imperialist's a invasion, culture liquidation by Japan, Independence from Japan, Korean war and Influence by US are major bitter historical affair after close of Chosun Dynasty in the process of modernization. Therefore Korea couldn't stay in the center of world cultural core parts and was degraded as cultural consumption country which was provided oversea culture by other countries. Then Korea couldn't develop our unique traditional idea and culture. In the meantime there are both extreme phenomena; one is expulsion of other cultures absolutely and the other is only following western culture unconditionally like trimming policy in the end of colony age. These discreet and unfiltered western culture had been influenced Korea culture over the wide range strongly and resulted in cultural colony situation to produce western imitation culture without philosophy and traditional spirit. Even though Korea has met opportunity in the culture, we called "Han Trend", no formation of own culture is main reason for psychological panic. Korea furniture design is one of parts of lost of tradition culture and typical parts in reproducing western imitation culture. As a result furniture industry's major reason for loss value as exporting industry compared to other industries result in most of the furniture products without our unique identity. This situation become more deepen unfortunately. This report would like to suggest the direction of design with global competition capability and cultural identity to boost Korean furniture design industry by comparing, analyzing and speculating between design of Chosun dynasty and philosophy of modernism in western.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2008

This study reviewed pertinent literature and examined relics of manggon(a headband worn to hold a man's topknot hair in place), donggot(a topknot pin), and chigwan(a topknot cover). Before the modernized short hair style, wearing a gat was an important custom. Therefore, manggon, which was used to hold a man's hair in place under the gat, was considered an essential part of the man's official dress code. Donggot is a pin that held the topknot hair in place. It was a must have for a married man, like the binyeo, a lod-like hairpin, for a married woman. Unlike gwanja, it had nothing to do with official rank, but materials were of a variety of materials, including jade and gold. The structure of the donggot was studied in three parts-head, neck and body. Major forms for the head include the mushroom, bean and ball. Bullet and half-cut bullet forms were also found. Forms for the neck include straight-neck and curved-neck. A neck with a belt around a double chin was also found. Forms for the body include the tetrahedron, octahedron and cylinder. The most popular form for silver and white bronze donggot heads was the mushroom, followed by bean and pile forms. Chigwan is also called chipogwan, chichoal, choalgyesogwan, noingwan and sangtugwan. In poetry it was called chichoal, and it used to be called taegogwan in the past as well. Chigwan was so small that it managed to hold a topknot. According to confucian custom in the Joseon period, by wearing chigwan, men didn't display their bare topknot even when they didn't dress up. When they went out, they wore another official hat over the chigwan.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.111-123
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• 2003

This study is designed to understand evaluation criteria for garment depending on demographic factors among college students in Yanbian, China. Questionnaire was used for measurement tools to study the subject of the thesis. The main study was conducted against 450 college students from May 17 to June 5, 2001. The data for the study were analyzed using SAS PC program for frequency distribution, percentage, t-test, and one way ANOVA. The evaluation criteria for garment are affected by demographic factors such as gender, average monthly household income, monthly expense for clothing. The result was showed as follows: The evaluation criteria for garment based on gender showed almost no meaningful different between male and female college students. Means on factors considered highly in selecting clothes was studied. The result shows that 'fit to the body, 'quality', 'color' and 'pattern' are considered most highly and 'harmony with other clothes', 'after service', design' 'easy to manage' and 'price' are considered relatively highly, but 'brand' and 'trendy fashion' were not considered highly. A meaningful difference was showed only in one area-trendy fashion-among three different income level groups. Those with an average monthly household income between 500 and 2,000yuan showed a highest tendency compared to those with above 2,000yuan and those with 500yuan. In terms of evaluation criteria for garment based on monthly expense for clothing, 'brand' is the only area which showed a meaningful difference. Respondents with monthly clothing expense of above 100yuan showed a higher means than those with below 100yuan.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.169-183
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• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.225-232
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• 2013

The spatial separation of male's and female's area due to the law of 'Naeoei' is one of the trademark features of residence by the building principle of 'Confucianism' in the upper class house in the late of the Chosun Dynasty. Thanks to modernized agriculture and commerce, the residence of 'Sinheung-Yangban' developed. And they were influenced by the economic and living characteristics than traditional custom. So the residence of 'Sinheung-Yangban' is very important in terms of the course of modernizing of the korean traditional residence. Researcher figures out the influences of the law of 'Naeoei' in residence and the characteristics of male's and female's field in terms of daily life with investigating the residence of 'Sinheung-Yangban' as the upper class house in the late of the Chosun Dynasty. Through this, the goal of this study is to find the properties of male's and female's field of upper class houses in the late of the Chosun Dynasty. With this study, the followings are the characteristics of male's and female's spatial composition of upper class houses in Gyong-gi Province in the late of the Chosun Dynasty. First, the traditional law of 'Naeoei' plays a primary role as the principle of building of upper class houses in Gyong-gi Province in the late of the Chosun Dynasty. With a natural result, there is a clear spatial separation as the male's and female's social role. Second, 'An-Chae' and 'Sarang-Chae' as male's and female's living space are separated physically, but real living life tends to be syntagmatically made with 'An-Madang' as the center. Third, spatial integration of 'An-Madang' as the center results in the development of architectural connection factors of 'An-Chae' and 'BaKat-Chae' adjoining 'An-Madang', facing 'Toei-Gan', 'Maru', and 'door'. Forth, the boundary of male's and female's areas is relatively clear between dwellers and visitors, but on the other hand, the separation of male's and female's spaces between family members has little significance.