• Title/Summary/Keyword: 제직

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Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from unknown Woman's Tomb, Incheon (인천시 석남동 출토 직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Bae, Soon-Wha
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.10
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    • pp.24-34
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

Study of Optimal Weaving Shape according to Formability and Mechanical Properties of Polyethylene-based Self-reinforced Composite (폴리에틸렌 기반 자기강화복합재료의 성형성 및 기계적 특성에 따른 최적 제직형상 수치해석적 연구)

  • Yu, Seong-hun;Lee, Pil Gyu;Lee, Jong-hyuk;Kim, neul sae rom;Sim, Jee-hyun
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.34 no.1
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    • pp.58-67
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    • 2022
  • In this study, self-reinforced composite(SRC) was prepared using HDPE(High density polyethylene) fabric(2×2 plain) and LDPE(Low density polyethylene) film. The optimal conditions were derived by manufacturing specimens according to the temperature of 100 ~ 140℃ using a hot stamping at a pressure of 100bar for 10 minutes in order to find the optimal conditions for the SRC. The manufactured SRC was analyzed for tensile properties, compressive strength and shear strength through a universal testing machine(UTM). As a result of the measurement, the P3 specimen prepared by hot stamping at a temperature of 130℃ and a pressure of 100bar for 10 minutes was found to be higher than other specimens with tensile strength and tensile modulus of 210MPa and 19GPa, compressive strength 69MPa and shear strength 13MPa and it was considered to be optimal condition. Finally, the composite material according to the fabric structure was modeled using experimental values and the physical properties of the composite material according to the fabric structure were predicted using GeoDict and Digimat.

Study on the Technique of Weaving Fabrics in Korea( I ) -focused on hemp and ramie of the Three Kingdoms and the Korea Dynasty- (우리나라 직물제직기술에 대한 연구(I) -삼국시대와 고려시대의 대마와 저마직물을 중심으로-)

  • Min Gil Ja;Lee Soon Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.8 no.2
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    • pp.41-46
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    • 1984
  • Ancient Korean and China litteratures show us that it has been long since people from humbler classes to king most commonly used bast fabrics as materials of their cloth. According to the record of these ancient litteratures, highly developed fine bast fabrics and those woven in figures were used as tribute between ancient Korea and China. In this study we will make a brief research of the history of bast fabric culture from ancient times to the Korea Dynasty in which the bast fabric culture flourished and reached the summit of prosperity. After having compared the bast fabric culture of ancient Korea with that of ancient China in which the bast fabric culture developed very much and bast fabrics were used more commonly as materials of cloth than any other fabrics, we could come to conclusions as follows. 1. Names were given to bast fabrics according to the kinds of bast fibers, the degree of fineness and the containing of figures: Ma-po, Jeo, Jeo-po, Bag-jeo-po, Moon-jeo-po, Po and Se-po. The number of 'Seung' which indicated the degree of fineness was attached to the top of each name to show how fine they are. 2. While the bast fabric of 30 Seung is known to be the most fine one of the ancient China, in ancient Korea fine bast fabric of higher than 30 Seung was woven. This fact proves that the technique of weaving bast fabrics of the ancient Korea was more highly developed than that of ancient China. 3. In ancient China the highest Seung number of the ordinary clothes which were put on after putting off livery of grief was regulated to be 15. But in ancient Korea, Sil-la, it was regulated to be 28. Judging from this fact, we may say that the consumption level of the ancient Korean people in cloth was higher than that of the ancient China people. 4. The reason why in ancient Korea the technique of weaving bast fabrics was so highly developed is suppoed to be that the ancient Korean people preferred elegant, refine and simple taste in cloth. 5. The excellent bast fabric culture of the ancient Korea flowed into ancient Japan. It proves that Korea played an important part in the history of textile development of the world.

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A study on the Process Characteristics of the N/P Micro-fiber Fancy yarn and fabrics (N/P 분할사를 이용한 Fancy 가공사 직물의 공정특성 및 물성에 관한 연구)

  • Hong, Sang-Gi;Park, Seong-Woo;Park, Jang-Hwan;Lee, Yeong-Hyeong
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2012.03a
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    • pp.90-90
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    • 2012
  • 극세섬유는, 1970년대 말부터 일본의 합섬업체들이 천연소재인 Silk를 모방하기 위해 개발을 시작하였으며, 개발된 섬유의 굵기가 0.5d(1denier=1g/9,000m)이하인 것을 말한다. 이후 극세사에 대한 끊임없는 노력으로, 1980년대에는 천연스웨이드 풍의 인조피혁의 제조가 가능한 0.1d이하급 초극세사가 N/P(Nylon/Polyester) 복합방사된 형태로 개발되었으며, 일본, 및 한국 등에서 이들 소재로 제조된 직편물 제품이 첨단 고부가소재로서 호황을 누려왔다. 이러한 초극세사는 다양한 형태로 발전되어왔는데, 해도형(Islands-in-a-Sea Type), N/P(Nylon/PET), P/N(PET/Nylon) 등이 대표적인 형태이며, 가공공정 중에서 분할이 되면서 그 특성을 발현한다고 하여 분할사, 형태에 따라서 N/P 분할사라 하기도 한다. 최근들어 이러한 N/P 분할사는 기존의 의류용 용도뿐만 아니라, Wiping Cloth, 극세사 타울, 항진드기용 침장 등 다양한 비의류용 소재로도 확대 전개되고 있으며, 이렇게 다양화 되어가고 있는 용도에 따른 공정별 최적 가공 방법에 대한 연구가 진행 중이다. 사가공 공정에 있어서는 텍스쳐링 방법이 적용되기도 하는데, 가장 보편화된 텍스쳐링 방법으로는 DTY(Draw Texturing Yarn), ATY(Air Texturing Yarn) 등의 형태가 있으며, 이러한 텍스쳐링 방법은 물성에 민감한 N/P 분할사의 강도, 신도, 분할도에 영향을 미치게 된다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 텍스쳐링 방법이 아닌 Fancy사 형태로 사가공을 하였으며, 직물로 제직하고, 분할 가공하여 직물로써의 물성까지 분석하였다. Fancy사는 색이나 형의 변화로 디자인효과를 준 실을 말하는데, 심사, 부사, 압사로 이뤄지며 의장사, 장식사 등으로 불려지기도 한다. 주요 공정을 보면, 크릴형성용 부사를 500-600T/M으로 가연한 연사를 얻는 제1공정과, 이 가연된 부사와 심사를 합사하는 제2공정 및 합사된 크릴의 뒤틀림을 방지하기 위하여 압사로 크릴을 고정하여 주는 제3공정으로 이루어진다. 사용된 N/P 분할사는 NP30/36dty, NP50/36dty를 사용하였으며, 부사의 오버피드 및 피드되는 사에 따라 각각 8종, 7종의 Fancy사를 제조하여 섬도(Denier), 강도(Tenacity), 신도(Elongation)를 측정하였다. 또한, 이들 사들로 제직 및 분할가공을 하여 인장강도, 인장신도, 인열강도, 마모강도, 공기투과도 등의 물성과 중량, 두께를 측정하였으며, 온도, NaOH 농도, 시간 등의 분할 가공조건에 따른 직물의 인열강도 변화도 측정하였다. 이렇게 공정별 조건에 따른 물성의 변화분석을 통해 추후 N/P의 제품화 전개에 도움이 되고자 하였다.

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A Study on Job Satisfaction of Busan-port Pier Management Corporation's Employee (부산항부두관리공사 직원의 직무만족도 분석)

  • Kim, Sang-Goo;Lee, Won-Il
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.13 no.4
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    • pp.95-100
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    • 2007
  • Busan-port is world's fifth trading port and is playing an important role in medium of revenue expansion and civic growth of Busan metropolitan city. Therefore, Busan metropolitan city aims at establishment of maritime special city with sailing of popular election third times. But this sort of goal can be accomplished when job satisfaction of port's personnel concerned is elevated. So, the object of this study is to research on job satisfaction of Busan-port pier management corporation's employee. Through the examination of preceding studies, duty contents promotion remuneration control sense of responsibility colleague relation guarantee job office quantity working environment. tenure of office sex age education are used as factors of job satisfaction. The finding of this study are as follows; First, promotion and remuneration exert significant influence upon job satisfaction. Second, the job satisfaction of Busan-port Pier Management Corporation's Employee is pretty low.

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A Study on the Cultural Exchange of the Weaving Skills and Patterns Witnessed in Geum-textiles between the East and West - from Ancient Times to the Tang Dynasty - (제직기술과 문양을 통해 본 금직물(錦織物)의 동서교류에 관한 연구 - 고대부터 당시대를 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Hey-Sung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.4
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    • pp.107-122
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes and developments that occurred as a result of the exchanges of gyeong-geum(經錦), a warp-faced compound weave of East Asia, and wie-geum(緯錦), a weft-faced compound weave of West Asia. In order to maximize the efficiency of this research, topics were narrowed down to the weaving skills and patterns, and the period was limited to the Tang dynasty. The systematic characteristics and differences of gyeong-geum and wie-geum were compared and contrasted through different works of literature. Then the excavated remains of geum-textiles were analyzed and the characteristics of the geum-textiles were defined in chronological order. The origin of wie-geum is traced back to the time when West Asia started to imitate the weaving style of the East Asian gyeong-geum. When combined with the weaving skills of the West Asian, gyeong-geum, which broke through the West and developed into the weft-faced compound twill silk, or samite. The exchange of geum-textiles took place as the techniques of gastric filament woven geum-textiles returned to the East. Along with the pearl roundel motifs of Sassanian Persia, mythical animals and western motifs of hunter patterns were used for the patterns of wie-geumin during the early Tang dynasty. This tendency is related to pa-sa-geum(波斯錦), ho-geum(胡錦), beon-geum(番錦) according to the recorded literature. The 8th and 9th century are periods when the West Asian Persian style was abandoned and the East Asian style, samite, was established. Not only did S twist silk threads replace Z twists, but also the repetition of patterns unfolded along with the weft and the warp. As this tendency was strengthened after the 9th century, the expression of patterns became more vividly colorful and showed both elements of naturalism and realism. The characteristics of the Bosangwha(寶相花) pattern in the Tang period were established with the rampantly repeated rosettes with birds often holding auspicious branches, that fly amid floral compositions.

Comparative Study on Characteristic of Materials to Restore Traditional Gold Threads (전통 편금사 복원 및 재현을 위한 재료 특성 비교 연구)

  • Yu, Ji A;Kim, Ji Eun;Han, Ye Bin;Lee, Sang Hyeon;Chung, Yong Jae
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.307-315
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    • 2014
  • The gold textile is Korean traditional weaving technique using the gold thread since 5th century. The making technique of gold thread was written in various references, but it is severed because the gold thread weaving equipment and sumptuous moods were forbidden in the early 18th century. There are some studies of traditional gold thread which are mainly about conservation treatment of cleaning and strength. To restore traditional gold thread, investigation of material and manufacturing technique is vitally required. The gold threads are composed of gold leaf, adhesive and base sheet. Gold leaf and base sheet are available for investigation because they are exposed to the surface, whereas adhesive is not easy to investigate because it is not exposed to the surface. In this study, samples are made of pure and impure gold, animal glue and lacquer, and various types of Hanji based on domestic and foreign references to compare materials for gold threads. As a result of morphological character and stability evaluation, the optimum materials for the restoration of gold threads are pure gold, animal glue and Dochimji(smoothing paper by beating). This study is expected to be basic data for manufacturing gold threads techniques and modernization of traditional gold threads hereafter research.

The Physical Property of the Structural Color Yarn and Fabric for Emotional Garment Using Biomimetic Technology (생체모방기술을 응용한 감성의류용 구조발색사와 직물의 물성)

  • Kim, Hyun-Ah;Kim, Seung-Jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.141-148
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    • 2012
  • This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.

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Study on the Baekje's Cotton Fabrics Excavated in Neungsan-ri Temple Site (부여 능산리 사지 출토 백제 면직물연구)

  • Sim, Yeon Ok;Chung, Yong Jae;Yu, Ji A;Namgung, Seung
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.44 no.3
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    • pp.4-17
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    • 2011
  • The Baekje's cotton fabrics were excavated from 'Neungsan-ri temple site in Buyeo' (September 1999-April 2000) and stored at Buyeo National Museum after conservation treatment. In this study, it carred out non-destructive, chemical and morphological analysis for fiber identification, also considered on influx, features and difference between the 'Baek-cheop-po(Three kingdom period's cotton fiber)' and 'Mok-myeon(imported by Munikjeom, late Korea dynasty)'. As a result, the fiber proved cellulose fiber through analytical researches like color reaction, FT-IR(chemical analysis). It was also confirmed lumens, typical dimensional structure(morphological analysis) as an features of cotton fiber. The fiber was the first evidence in ancient Korea's cotton. But it can not prove that whether weaving were made in Baekje's area. However there were documentation that people in Beakje make cloth to silk fabric from 'Mahan period'. We can suppose that they have had an old weaving techniques. This study has a great historical, academic values as the only evidence for the hypothesis of a weaving technique of the Baekje's cotton. Through comparison to each region's ancient cottons, we can investigate the species of Baekje's cotton and ancient Korea cotton's influx.

A Study on the Possibility of Using Fire-Retardant Working Cloth Made from Silicon Carbide (SiC) Composite Spun Yarns (Silicon Carbide (SiC) 복합방적사로부터 제조된 원단의 방화복 활용 가능성에 관한 연구)

  • Kang, Hyun-Ju;Kang, Gun-Woong;Kwon, Oh-Hoon;Kwon, Hyeon-Myoung;Hwang, Ye-Eun;Jeon, Hye-Ji;Joo, Jong-Hyun;Park, Yong-Wan
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.24 no.4
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    • pp.149-156
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    • 2021
  • The mechanical properties of a woven fabric made of SiC (silicon carbide) fibers were determined in this study using the KES-FB system. The woven fabric is used in high heat settings above 1500℃. Composite spun yarns were used to create SiC fibers. By analyzing the wearing properties, we studied the prospect of using the textiles as fire-retardant work clothes. Mechanical properties determine the wearing attributes. Therefore, the tensile linearity (LT), tensile resilience (RT), and shear stiffness (G) values of the fabric varied according to the yarn type (filament or spun yarn). The thickness, weight per square meter, and density of the fabric were found to have an effect on the shear hysteresis (2HG) and compression resilience (RC) values. In terms of wearable clothing qualities, the fabric qualities of the SiC composite yarn demonstrated the highest ratio of compressive energy to thickness (WC/T), which indicates bulkiness. The fabric manufactured from SiC composite yarns passed the KFI criteria for carbonation length and cumulative flame time in the flame-retardant test. Therefore, we discovered that the material can be used as a fire-resistant work cloth.