• Proceedings of the SOHE Conference
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• 2004.12a
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• pp.72-72
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.12 s.138
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• pp.1605-1616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.40-40
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• 2003

본 연구의 목적은 재킷, 와이셔츠, 넥타이 색과 지각자의 성별에 따른 남성 정장착용자의 이미지 지각의 차이를 밝히고, 성별 및 연령에 따른 남성 의복의 색 선호도의 차이를 조사하는 데 있었다. 연구방법은 준실험방법이며, 피험자간(between-subjects) 실험설계를 사용하였다. 2$\times$2$\times$2$\times$2의 요인설계로서 지각자의 성별(2), 재킷 색(2), 와이셔츠 색(2), 넥타이 색(2)을 독립변인으로 사용하였다. 재킷 색은 진남색과 회색을 택하였고, 와이셔츠 색은 흰색과 파란색이었으며 넥타이 색은 빨강과 파랑이었다. 이미지 지각을 측정하는 문항은 6개 차원의 7점 양극 형용사 쌍으로 구성된 의미미분척도였으며, 그 차원은 능력, 품위, 활동성, 선호평가, 남성성, 현시성이었다. 피험자는 서울 시내에 거주하는 20, 30대 남녀 각각 132명씩 총 264명이었다. 자료분석은 SPSS 프로그램을 사용하였으며, 통계 분석방법은 Cronbach의 $\alpha$-신뢰도 계수 산출, t-검증, 사원변량분석, 이원변량분석, 일원변량분석과 Duncan의 다중범위검증을 실시하였다.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.105-114
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• 2021

This study aims to evaluate the differences in visual images due to the variations in the silhouette and jacket type of men's suits. Six samples were used for this study: 3 examples had variations in the silhouette while 2 variations were in the jacket type. They were evaluated using a 7-point rating scale and a survey was conducted among 80 fashion students. The data was analyzed by Factor Analysis, ANOVA, Scheffé Test, and the MCA method. This study's results are as follows: 1) According to Factor Analysis, the components of visual evaluation by the silhouette and the jacket type of men's suit were classified into: attractiveness, masculinity, practicality, and naturalness. Among these factors, attractiveness and masculinity were evaluated to be the most important factors. 2) Men's suits with a single-breasted jacket had a simple and practical images in fitted and boxy silhouettes. Double-breasted jacket suits showed sexy, refined, and chic images in the fitted and slim silhouettes, and expressed an adult, profound, and conservative images in the boxy and fitted silhouettes. 3) The silhouette and the jacket type of men's suit interacted with masculinity and the practicality. Fitted and slim silhouette suits had different images that looked adult, profound, and conservative depending on the jacket type, but the boxy silhouette suit did not show the same effect. 4) According to the MCA on the attractiveness and the naturalness, the jacket type affected the visual image of men's suit more than the silhouette. Double-breasted jacket suits had more sexy, refined, and chic image than the single-breasted jacket suits. Men's suits with a single-breasted jacket had a more comfortable and natural image than those with a double breasted jacket.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.85-85
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• 2003

기성복은 근래에 들어 유행의 흐름이 빨라짐에 따라 디자인이 더욱 다양화, 전문화되어 가는 양상을 보여 소비자들의 개인적 취향을 만족시켜 주고 있다. 그러나 의복의 맞음새는 개인의 기호에 따라 차이가 있으며, 성별, 연령, 체형, 선호하는 패션 경향 등의 영향을 받기 때문에 소비자들의 맞음새 만족도를 높이는 것은 현실적 제한을 받고 있다. 본 연구는 성인 여성을 대상으로 기성복 정장(재킷, 스커트, 바지)의 맞음새 선호 성향을 조사하여 연령대ㆍ비만도별 각각의 선호 경향의 차이를 밝히는데 목적이 있다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.65-67
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• 2003

사람들은 자신이 선호하는 스타일의 의복을 착용하기를 원한다. 하지만 다수의 사람들이 자신의 체형 부위별로 본인이 생각하기에 만족하지 못하는 경우가 많아 실제로는 선호하는 스타일이 아닌 자신의 체형을 커버하는 디자인의 의복을 착용하는 경우가 많다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 정장류 착용 경험이 많고 사회 활동을 많이 하는 성인 여성을 대상으로 신체인지도 및 만족도에 따른 아이템(재킷, 팬츠, 스커트)별 선호스타일과 착용스타일에 어떠한 차이점이 있는가를 살펴보고, 이러한 차이가 나타나는 요인을 분석해 보고자 한다. (중략)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.203-215
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate current garment sizes of women's formal jackets, targeting plus-size women in online shopping malls, and to identify effective size information involved in online apparel purchase behaviors to overcome the short comings of current garment sizes from the perspectives of consumers. Basic 88 size formal jackets from the seven companies found on the 22 websites were collected and analyzed. The data were collected from March to October 2007, and analyzed using SPSS 14.0. The results were summarized as follows. First, there was no website using standard garment size labeling with 'bust-hip-height' set up by KS K 0051 among the 22 websites. Instead, all 22 websites used garment size labeling with figures such as 88, 99, 100, 110, and 120 or with letters such as L, XL, and XXL. The websites presented no body size, but listed garment size. Furthermore, the size information was presented differently, ranging from three items of bust circumference, upper arm length, and jacket length to six items of shoulder width, bust circumference, waist circumference, sleeve width, sleeve length, and jacket length. In addition, no website presented basic information for hip circumference, despite the jacket length covering the hips. Second, a total of 85.7% the websites listed bust circumferences in 88 garment sizes collected as 100cm. Shoulder widths were presented as 39cm or 37cm. Sleeve circumferences were addressed the same, 36cm, in all websites. Third, comparing the differences between guidance sizes and measurement sizes, only 28.5% of the web sites posted guidance sizes of shoulder widths the same as those of the measurement sizes. All web sites presented guidance sizes of bust circumstances as 1 to 5cm smaller than those of the measurement sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.91-102
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.