• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

Dan(緞) is satin damask. It was a newly popularized fabrics in the Joseon Period and is one of main traditional fabrics at present. The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Dan(緞) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, pattern, usage, feature, length and width, value of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period. The results of this study are as follows. 1. The kinds of Dan(緞) recorded on documents made at the end of the Joseon Period are various. Among fabrics named Dan(緞), were not only silk fabrics but also cotton fabrics, woolen fabrics, mixture fabrics with silk and cotton, and mixture fabrics with cotton and wool. 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Dan(緞) are as follows. The shape of Byeolmun(別紋) is assumed to have originated from that of character symbolizing the Royal Family and developed into a variety of circular ones of dragon, phoenix, flower, or character. O-ho-ro-mun(五葫蘆紋) was five-gourd-shaped patterns that form a circle, turning their narrow mouth to the center, and vines between each two gourds. 3. When considering the usages of Dan(緞), Dan(緞) was used for various detailed usages according to their kinds. But it was't mostly used for underwear. 4. Features have been examined are Godan(庫緞), Mobondan(模本緞), Handan(漢緞), Daedan(大緞), Yangdan(洋緞), Waedan(倭緞), and Geumdan(錦緞). 5. The length and the width of 1 Pil(疋) silk fabrics are various. It is normal for the width being different, but for 1 Pil(疋)'s length being different is very unusual. The width of Dan (緞) was about 47-76.20cm, it was wider than Ju(紬), Cho, Gyeon(絹), Sa(紗), Ra(羅) and Reung(綾). 6. As for the value of each fabric per $10,000cm^2$, Dan(緞) was the most valuable silks at that time. Among them the most valuable Dan(緞) was Udan(羽緞).

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.307-315
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• 2014

The gold textile is Korean traditional weaving technique using the gold thread since 5th century. The making technique of gold thread was written in various references, but it is severed because the gold thread weaving equipment and sumptuous moods were forbidden in the early 18th century. There are some studies of traditional gold thread which are mainly about conservation treatment of cleaning and strength. To restore traditional gold thread, investigation of material and manufacturing technique is vitally required. The gold threads are composed of gold leaf, adhesive and base sheet. Gold leaf and base sheet are available for investigation because they are exposed to the surface, whereas adhesive is not easy to investigate because it is not exposed to the surface. In this study, samples are made of pure and impure gold, animal glue and lacquer, and various types of Hanji based on domestic and foreign references to compare materials for gold threads. As a result of morphological character and stability evaluation, the optimum materials for the restoration of gold threads are pure gold, animal glue and Dochimji(smoothing paper by beating). This study is expected to be basic data for manufacturing gold threads techniques and modernization of traditional gold threads hereafter research.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.61-73
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to improve interest and attitude of student's Technology-Home Economics Curriculum and to recognize the change of recognition on Traditional image through Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo making on the unit of making living goods with fabrics in Technology-Home Economics curriculum on first year high school. The abridged result of study following this: First, in Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo making, teaching-learning plan applying LT cooperative studying and learning materials have been developed. Second, after applying the developed lesson plan, the result showed that the change in learning interest and attitude about Technology-Home Economics curriculum was positively improved. After executing the class on Natural Dyeing and Jogakbo making, the interest and concern about tradition were very positively upgraded through the result analyzing the change of recognition on traditional image. Through these results, The Teaching-learning plan and learning materials would show high possibility of application as educational contents about traditional culture in the field of education. After executing the class on making of Natural dyeing and Jogakbo, the learning interest degree and attitude was very positively upgraded, and the recognition on traditional image had been changed to the active and positive recognition.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet's dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

• Journal of Internet of Things and Convergence
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.33-38
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• 2020

It was reported that a mobile application was designed to easily provide natural dyeing information such as natural dye related resources, colors and dyed fabrics in 2007. Since studies on the linkage, application, etc. between natural dye dyeing and IoT are still lacking, diversity of information on the change of dyeing pattern by natural dye dyeing is required. In this study, it was to construct dyeing information by natural dyes, e.g., Lithospermum erythrorhizon, on silk, which has been traditionally used as many fibers in Korea. The extraction of the dye from L. erythrorhizon was carried out under pH4. The dried root of L. erythrorhizon showed dark brownish purple. Silk fabric by a without a mordant typically showed a purple dyed pattern. In the staining by sodium tartrate plus citric acid, silk fabric was stained clear brown. Interestingly, the mordant of iron (II) sulfate, the silk fabric was dyed in a light gray color rather than black. When the mordant of aluminum potassium sulfate was treated with L. erythrorhizon-extracted dye, the results were almost the same as when the mordant was not treated. When the degree of dyeing was evaluated numerically, the treatment of the mordant of potassium dichromate was about 50% darker, and the dyeing by iron (II) sulfate was about 75% darker. These results will be helpful in the study of applying various dye colors using L. erythrorhizon, and it will provide information on dyeing controller and database system construction by dyeing parameters such as dyeing degree, pH concentration, and chromaticity change.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.16-27
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• 2014

This study investigated the characteristics of and changes in hemp textile production practices at Gurye in Jeollanam-do in modern times. To do this, in this study, both a literature review and fieldwork research were utilized as research methods. The literature review focused on Gurye's hemp data, and the fieldwork research involved two separate trials. Male and Female residents of Gurye who had experience in the area of hemp production from the 1920s to the 1980s participated in this study. The results were as follows. First, regarding hemp fiber cultivation in Gurye, hemp cultivation continued to the 1970s and there were no changes in hemp cultivation practices during the Japanese colonial-era. Second, there have been very important changes in hemp kilns over time. In the 1950s, there were both single-body kilns and separate-body kilns in Gurye. Later, specifically in the 1950s, a new type of kiln using an iron pot appeared, and the most modern kilns were concrete structures. Third, in Gurye, women cooperatively removed hemp husks immediately after stemming, subsequently bleaching the hemp by soaking it in lye or caustic soda. Over time, there have been changes in ash types and in soaking periods. Fourth, loom types changed from the traditional Korean back-strap loom to the treadle loom in the 1930s- to 1940s. Fifth, since the 1970s, the hemp textile output levels of Gurye have been reduced due to the westernization of clothing styles, the inflow of Chinese hemp fiber and government regulations pertaining to hemp cultivation.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2024

Painted Cultural heritage uses various materials such as paper, silk, wood, soil, and lime as a base layer to draw on using ink sticks and express lines or colors using various colorants. The importance of underdrawings is emphasized when it comes to replication and preservation, as they can reveal the original drawing. Investigations using infrared have been extensively conducted to detect underdrawings. However, there has been a paucity of research on the influence of underdrawing detection according to the base layer. In this study, the effect of the base layer materials on underdrawing detection in painted cultural heritage was confirmed using an infrared camera and hyperspectral camera (900 to 1700 nm). The study samples marked '檢' with ink below the color layer (cinnabar, orpiment, malachite, azurite, white lead, and red lead) by the base layer materials: Paper (Dakji, indigo/Dakji), silk (silk, silk/white lead), wood (celadonite/wood), soil (celadonite/soil), and lime. The difference in the effect on underdrawing detection was minimal for paper and silk, and no significant differences were found between Dakji and indigo/Dakji, or between silk and silk/white lead. However, we found that celadonite/wood, celadonite/soil, and lime have a significant impact on underdrawing detection. In particular, for wood and soil painted with celadonite, underdrawings were not detected for all six color layers. In the case of lime, it was found that all color layers except malachite had a more positive effect on underdrawing detection. The findings of this study will aid in selecting the appropriate method for underdrawing analysis in the restoration of painted cultural heritage.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.7
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• pp.133-162
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• 1995

Paderborn's companies, Wameling and Cassau, produce the liturgical vestments, which have much traditional artistic merit. And Kevelaerer Fahnen + Paramenten GmbH, located in Kevelater which is a place of pilgrimage of the Virgin Mary, was known to Europe, Africa, America and the Scandinavia Peninsula as the "Hidden Company" of liturgical vesments maker up to now. Paderborn and Kevelaer were the place of the center of the religious world and the Catholic ceremony during a good few centries. The Catholic liturgical vestiments of these 3 companies use versatile design, color, shape and techniques. These have not only the symbolism of religion, but also can meet our's expectations of utilization of modern textile art, art clothing and wide-all division of design. These give the understanding of symbolic meanings and harmony according to liturgical vestments to the believers. And these have an influence on mental thinking and induction of religious belief to the non-believers as the recognition and concerns about the religious art. The liturgical vestments are clothes which churchmen put on at the all ceremonial function of a mass, a sacrament, performance and a parade according to rules of church. These show the represen-tation of "Holy God" in silence and distinguish between common people and churchmen. And these represent a status and dignity of churchmen and induce majesty and respect to churchmen. Common clothes of the beginning of the Greece and Rome was developed to Christian clothes with the tendency of religion. There were no special uniforms distinguished from commen people until the Christianity was recognized officially by the Roman Emperor Constantinus at A.D.313. The color of liturgical vestments was originally white and changed to special colors according to liturgical day and each time by the Pope Innocentius at 12th century. The color and symbolic meaning of the liturgical vestments of present day was originated by the Pope St. Pius(1566-1572). Wool and Linen was used as decorations and materials in the beginnings and the special materials like silk was used after 4th century and beautiful materials made of gold thread was used at 12th century. It is expected that there is no critical changes to the liturgical vestments of future. But the development of liturgical vestments will continues slowly by the command of conservative church and will change to simple and convenient formes according to the culture, the trend of the times and the fashion of clothes. The companies of liturgical vestments develop versatile design, embroidery technique and realization of creative design for distinction of the liturgical vestments of each company and artistic progress. The cooperation of companies, artists and church will make the bright future of these 3 companies. We expect that our country will be a famous producing center of the liturgical vestments through the research and development of companies, participation of artists in religeous arts and concerts of church.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.230-250
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• 2013

possessed by Dong-A University Museum is designated as Treasure No. 595, and has been known for a more exquisite, delicate and realistic expression and a colorful three-dimensional structure compared to the 'grass and insect painting' work and its value in art history. However, it has not been analyzed and studied in fabric craft despite it being an embroidered work. This study used scientific devices to examine and analyze the Screen's fabric, thread colors, and embroidery techniques to clarify its patterns and fabric craft characteristics for its value in the history of fabric craft. As a result, consists of eight sides and its subject matters and composition are similar to those of the general paintings of grass and insects. The patterns on each side of the 'grass and insect painting' include cucumber, cockscomb, day lily, balsam pear, gillyflower, watermelon, eggplant, and chrysanthemums from the first side. Among these flowers, the balsam pear is a special material not found in the existing paintings of grass and insect. The eighth side only has the chrysanthemums with no insects and reptiles, making it different from the typical forms of the paintings of grass and insect. The fabric of the Screen uses black that is not seen in other decorative embroideries to emphasize and maximize various colors of threads. The fabric used the weave structure of 5-end satin called Gong Dan [non-patterned satin]. The threads used extremely slightly twisted threads that are incidentally twisted. Some threads use one color, while other threads use two or mixed colors in combination for three-dimensional expressions. Because the threads are severely deterioration and faded, it is impossible to know the original colors, but the most frequently used colors are yellow to green and other colors remaining relatively prominently are blue, grown, and violet. The colors of day lily, gillyflower, and strawberries are currently remaining as reddish yellow, but it is anticipated that they were originally orange and red considering the existing paintings of grass and insects. The embroidery technique was mostly surface satin stitch to fill the surfaces. This shows the traditional women's wisdom to reduce the waste of color threads. Satin stitch is a relatively simple embroidery technique for decorating a surface, but it uses various color threads and divides the surfaces for combined vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches or for the combination of long and short stitches for various textures and the sense of volume. The bodies of insects use the combination of buttonhole stitch, outline stitch, and satin stitch for three-dimensional expressions, but the use of buttonhole stitch is particularly noticeable. In addition to that, decorative stitches were used to give volume to the leaves and surface pine needle stitches were done on the scouring rush to add more realistic texture. Decorative stitches were added on top of gillyflower, strawberries, and cucumbers for a more delicate touch. is valuable in the history of paintings and art and bears great importance in the history of Korean embroidery as it uses outstanding technique and colors of Korea to express the Shin Sa-im-dang's 'Grass and Insect Painting'.