• Title/Summary/Keyword: 재킷패턴

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A Study on the Comparative Evaluation of wearing Fitness of Women′s Ready-made Jackets Using 3D Scanner (3D Scanner를 이용한 여성용 기성복 재킷의 착의적합성에 관한 비교평가연구)

  • Kim, Haekyung;Eunyoung Suk;Park, Soonjee;Chuyeon Suh;Jiyoung Lim
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.25 no.10
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    • pp.1707-1718
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구 목적은 3차원 인체 스캐너를 이용하여 여자 기성복 재킷의 여유량을 비교, 분석하는 것으로, 2사이즈 7브랜드의 재킷의 공극량을 계측하여 분석하였다. 첫째, 재킷 단면둘레 분석 결과, B85(품), B8(허리)를 제외하고 브랜드간에 유의한 차이를 나타내지 않아, 전반적으로, 브랜드간 제품치수에는 차이가 없는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 인체와 재킷의 단면둘레 분석 결과, 재킷의 배둘레를 제외한 모든 항목에서 유의한 차이가 나타나 피험자, 재킷 모두 사이즈에 따라 유의적인 차이 가 있음을 알 수 있다. 셋째, 기본사이즈 B85에서는 허리를 제외하고는 패턴 F가 가장 여유량이 많은 것으로 나타났으나, B88의 경우, 부위별로 각기 다른 패턴에서 여유량이 가장 많은 것으로 나타나, 각 부분마다 브랜드별로 그레이딩 룰이 다름을 알 수 있다. 넷째, 착의 단면은 인체와 의복간의 여유량 분포를 명백히 보여주며, 어깨, 가슴, 엉덩이처럼 몸에 밀착되는 부위는 다른 부위에 비해 패턴간, 각도별 변이가 적은 것으로 나타났다. 품, 허리, 배에서는 옆보다는 앞, 뒤로, 가슴에서는 앞뒤 좌우의 30$^{\circ}$방향, 엉덩이의 경우, 옆, 뒤보다는 앞쪽에 여유량이 집중되어 있는 것으로 나타났다. 다섯째, 브랜드별 평균공극길이에 대한 분산분석 결과, 전반적으로 패턴 F가 가장 공극량이 많고, 패턴 D가 작은 것으로 나타났다. 여섯째, 사이즈별 평균공극길이에 대한 t-검정 결과, 품과 배 부분에서, B88이 B85보다 공극량이 적은 것으로 나타나, 기준부위인 가슴, 허리, 엉덩이 부분뿐만 아니라 품, 배둘레의 치수에 대응할 수 있도록 그레이딩 룰 값을 산정하여야 함을 알 수 있다.

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Pattern Making Method and Design of Power Shoulder Jackets (파워 숄더 재킷의 디자인 및 패턴전개 방법)

  • Park, Sanghee;Lee, Eunhae
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.13 no.7
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    • pp.131-140
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    • 2013
  • Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

Study on Manufacturing Exaggerated Jacket Pattern Shown in Women's Collections 2011 F/W (2011 F/W 여성복컬렉션에서 나타난 과장형 재킷패턴제작 연구)

  • Lee, Se-Jong;Kwak, Tai-Gi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.5
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    • pp.138-155
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    • 2012
  • Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.

An F-LDPC Codes Based on Jacket Pattern (재킷 패턴 기반의 F-LDPC 부호)

  • Lee, Kwang-Jae;Kang, Seung-Son
    • The Journal of the Korea institute of electronic communication sciences
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.317-325
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    • 2012
  • In this paper, we consider the encoding scheme of Low Density Parity Check codes. In particular, using the Jacket Pattern and circulant permutation matrices, we propose the simple encoding scheme of Richardson's lower triangular matrix. These encoding scheme can be extended to a flexible code rate. Based on the simple matrix process, also we can design low complex and simple encoders for the flexible code rates.

A Study on the Design of Men's Jacket Pattern (남성 재킷 패턴 설계에 관한 연구)

  • Lee Won-Ja;Kim Jin-Sun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.6 s.53
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    • pp.953-970
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to design men's jacket pattern for variable body types by employing the data of wearing evaluation from experimental basic bodices selected by male subjects in the 30's. As a result of sensory evaluation, functional test and clothing pressure test by each type of experimental basic bodices, the 3rd experimental basic bodice was chosen to be a basic bodice type in this research since it showed a high degree in fitness and function, but a low in the clothing pressure test. As a comparison of one item from conventional jacket and sleeve pattern with each somatotype, the type 2(the standard somatotype) indicated a great fitness in both basic bodice type and conventional jacket pattern, whereas the type 1 and the type 3 showed higher fitness and moving function in the basic bodice type. In the making of men's jacket, many corrections were made in the front interscye breadth, back interscye breadth, front and back length, and shoulder line as adapting each body type. Thus, the ease-amount of chest circumference at scye for clothes should be established differently according to the size of chest circumference at scye.

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A Study of Wearing Fitness of Jacket Design and Analysis of Flat Pattern and Draping (재킷 디자인의 입체와 평면 패턴분석 및 외관 적합성 분석에 관한 연구)

  • Seo, Wan-Seuk;Kim, Sook-Jin
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.2
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    • pp.101-113
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    • 2016
  • This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

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A Study on the Evaluation of Ready-Made Jacket for Women according to Pattern Size Using 3D Scanner (3D scanner를 이용한 여성복 재킷의 패턴 사이즈에 따른 착의평가 연구)

  • 서추연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.26 no.3_4
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    • pp.390-401
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    • 2002
  • This study was to evaluate the fitness and the suitability of size specification of the ready made jacket for women by analysing pattern size and space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner. The results were as follows: 1. Pattern B had the lowest score and the feeling of wearing was significantly different among the given patterns even though all jacket size specification were the same. 2. Ease amount was different between each brand even though the jacket size specification was the same due to the different pattern grading rules. And increasing grading amounts were bigger in horizontal direction rather than in vertical direction. 3. We could obtain accurate a 3 dimensional figure, using 3D scanner which was very useful and more accurate than 2 dimensional data using photography method. 4. Analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each pattern, there was no significant difference in the average space between skin and clothing among all patterns except waist part of B88 size. And analyzing the average space between skin and clothing of each measured body parts by each size, there existed a significant difference in the interscye, abdomen and hip parts.

The Visual Illusion Using the Adequate Ease Distribution of Jacket Pattern for the Middle Aged Women of Obese Figure (중년비만 여성용 재킷패턴의 여유량 분포에 따른 착시효과)

  • Sohn, Boo-Hyun
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.469-483
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    • 2008
  • Body image is important as it is related to self-esteem and can be enhanced by clothing and the degree of enhancement is related to clothing fit. The purpose of the paper is to find the adequate ease distribution of jacket pattern for the obese women who want to slenderize their shape by optical illusion. Subjective evaluation of the visual appearance we collected and, at the same time, 3D clothing air volume was observed for the nine types of experimental jackets with different ease distribution. As results it was found that jacket pattern for the obese women is that the front width of pattern is wider than what of back width in waist and abdomen. It was also noted that there was distance between clothing and skin in the girth around hip of jacket. 3D scanner clearly demonstrated the distribution of ease is useful to find the pattern variables responsible for the slender appearance of the obese women. The ready-to-made clothes for the obese women's clothing should be manufactured systematically in due consideration of the diversity and scarcity of the obese women's body shape.

Patternmaking of Men's Slim-fit Jacket Sloper in Their 30's Part 2 -Focusing on 6-panel jacket- (30대 남성 슬림 핏 재킷원형 패턴설계 제2보 - 6패널 재킷을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Myoung-Ok
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.93-101
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    • 2015
  • This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.