• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.455-463
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• 2003

Time series of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1)The relationship between suspended sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s where the nodal point of the first mode and the anti-nodal point of the second mode are located at the measurement point, respectively) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that suspended sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.141-146
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• 2003

Time seres of suspended sediment concentration, surface elevation and velocity were measured and analysed to investigate the role of waves and the predominance of infra-gravity wave component for sediment suspension phenomena in the surf zone. For the investigation in detail, we adopted the cross spectral analysis method between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave, and ensemble average analysis method about long-period wave component, which is dominant to sediment suspension in the measurement point. The obtained results are summarized as follows: 1) The relationship between sediment concentration and the characteristic values of wave is stronger for the long-period standing wave components(about 60s and 30s) than the long wave components(about 100s), which have the most energetic power, 2) and also, it is cleared that sediment concentration is increased in the case of the phase, the velocity components of the first mode long-period standing wave(60sec) were accelerated toward on-shore direction, that is, the water surface in offshore side is higher than on-shore side.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.300-313
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• 2014

Most analytical solutions for wave-induced soil response have been mainly developed to investigate the influence of the progressive and standing waves on the seabed response in an infinite seabed. This paper presents a new analytical solution to the governing equations considering the wave-induced soil response for the partial standing wave fields with arbitrary reflectivity in a porous seabed of finite thickness, using the effective stress based on Biot's theory (Biot, 1941) and elastic foundation coupled with linear wave theory. The newly developed solution for wave-seabed interaction in seabed of finite depth has wide applicability as an analytical solutions because it can be easily extended to the previous analytical solutions by varying water depth and reflection ratio. For more realistic wave field, the partial standing waves caused by the breakwaters with arbitrary reflectivity are considered. The analytical solutions was verified by comparing with the previous results for a seabed of infinite thickness under the two-dimensional progressive and standing wave fields derived by Yamamoto et al.(1978) and Tsai & Lee(1994). Based on the analytical solutions derived in this study, the influence of water depth and wave period on the characteristics of the seabed response for the progressive, standing and partial standing wave fields in a seabed of finite thickness were carefully examined. The analytical solution shows that the soil response (including pore pressure, shear stress, horizontal and vertical effective stresses) for a seabed of finite thickness is quite different in an infinite seabed. In particular, this study also found that the wave-induced seabed response under the partial wave conditions was reduced compared with the standing wave fields, and depends on the reflection coefficient.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.119-127
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• 2022

To investigate varying wave impact pressure exerting at the crest wall of rubble mound seawall, depending on breaking wave properties, regular waves with different wave periods were generated. Wave velocity fields and void fraction were measured using bubble image velocimetry and simple combined wave gauge system (Na and Son, 2021). For the waves with shorter wave period, maximum horizontal velocity was less reduced compared to incident wave speed while breaking-induced air entrainment was occurred intensely, leading to a significant reduction of wave impact pressure at the crest wall. For the waves with longer wave periods, less air wave entrained and the wave structure followed a flip-through mode (Cooker and Peregrine, 1991), resulting in an abrupt increase of the impact pressure.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.27-44
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• 2015

An analytical solution of dynamic responses for seabed in finite and infinite thicknesses including shallow has been developed under flow and partial standing wave with arbitrary reflection ration coexisting field at a constant water depth condition. In the analytical solution, a field was simply transited to a coexisting field of progressive wave and flow when reflection ratio was 0 and to a coexisting field of fully standing wave and flow when reflection ratio was 1. Based on the Biot's consolidation theory, the seabed was assumed as a porous elastic media with the assumptions that pore fluid is compressible and Darcy law governs the flow. The developed analytical solution was compared with the existing results and was verified. Using the analytical solution the deformation, pore pressure, effective and shear stresses were examined under various given values of reflection ratio, flow velocity, incident wave's period and seabed thickness. From this study, it was confirmed that the dynamic response of seabed was quite different depending on consideration of flow, which causes changing period and length of incident and reflection waves. It was also confirmed that dynamic response significantly depends on the magnitude of reflection ratio.