• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.83-96
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of retro fashion and new-tro fashion using big data. TEXTOM allowed the collection of big data on the words 'retro fashion' and 'new-tro fashion', which was refined afterwards. As for the data collection period, Jan. 1, 2019 to Nov. 30, 2022 was set. A top 50 list of words were extracted from this data based on appearance frequency. The extracted words were processed through Network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. The results are as follows. 1) In retro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'style' was the highest, followed by 'sensibility', 'color', 'trend', 'fashion', and 'brand'. These words came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'color', 'style', 'trend', 'sensibility', and 'design' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; trends, styles, looks, and photos. 2) In new-tro fashion, the appearance frequency of 'retro' was the highest, followed by 'trend', 'generation', 'style', 'brand', and 'fashion'. These words also came up with high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'retro', 'trend', 'generation', and 'brand' had high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed a total of four significant groups; style, brand, clothing, and trend. 3) New-tro fashion is included in retro fashion in that it reproduces the styles of the past. However, it is taken completely differently from generation to generation. Unlike the older generations, millennials actively accept newly created clothes and brands based on the past styles. They perceive it as a fashion that reveals their own unique tastes and tastes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.15-31
• /
• 2023

This study aimed to propose a fashion design development method using the external and internal characteristics of the flower and bird paintings in traditional Korean folk paintings. As a research method, external and internal characteristics of folk paintings were examined through previous studies and literature research, and folk painting patterns were developed into digital textile designs. Five 3D digital fashion designs were proposed using the CLO 3D program. The external characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: simplification and planarization of object representation, diversification of viewpoints, ignorance of perspective and symmetrical enumeration, strong colors and contrast effects, and the simultaneous representation of time. The internal characteristics of folk paintings were as follows: symbolic meaning, the beauty of free humor, modest aesthetics, complexity of reality and fantasy, and desire of shamanism. The results are as follows. Firstly, the flower and bird painting was a decorative painting style that emphasized decorative beauty and was suitable for developing fashion designs with Korean originality because of the symbolic and internal meanings. Simple layouts and bold free-spirited representations were effective ways to fill the screen with objects and gave the pattern a decorative effect. Secondly, developing a virtual clothing prototype based on digital design method using the external and internal characteristics of folk paintings and producing realistic fashion designs suggest the integrated use of science and technology, embodying modern fashion through the combination of digital fashion content and traditional cultural content. Thirdly, as a result of the development of 3D digital fashion designs, an eco-friendly and sustainable fashion design methods with virtual clothing can suggest a design development method that saves time and cost in the fashion design process while considering the environment.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.1
• /
• pp.153-168
• /
• 2023

Non-representation creates difference and change that can be used as a creative design method that satisfies contradictory requirements for similarity and differentiation. This study drew upon the characteristics of the concept of non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture, in which Gilles Deleuze's philosophical thinking was reflected, and analyzed the non-representation depicted in contemporary fashion. The non-representation expressed in contemporary art and architecture is as follows. Non-representation of delaying becoming focuses on reverting to preexisting objects and redefining traditional meaning, thereby delaying the representation of latent meaning. Non-representation of non-becoming removes existing values and typical forms and expresses amorphousness. Non-representation of becoming by repetition or reiteration realizes the difference caused by the passage of time by repeating or overlapping shapes. Non-representation of becoming expresses the transformation of space by flowing through time rather than by actual movement. Non-representation in contemporary fashion shows the following expression characteristics. First, the non-representation of deferring becoming deconstructs the traditional values and forms of clothing and expresses designs by displacement or juxtaposition. Second, the non-representation of non-becoming is expressed concepts unrelated to the body and focus upon amorphous objects that do not become concretized forms. Third, generative non-representation by repetition and overlap expresses the possibility of change by overlapping clothing items or details expressed by repeating segmented objects. Fourth, generative non-representation by movement reproduces the meaning of space and time by moving the shape of the clothing or visually changing the surface of the material of clothing. As a result of the study, the non-representation shown in contemporary fashion aims for versatility to conform to social changes. This study provides new insight into the fashion design method by increasing the understanding of the cocnept of non-representation and showing its potential.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2023

The purposes of this study were to investigate bag purchasing behaviors and design preferences of male and female adult consumers, and to find the differences depending on sex and age variable. A survey was conducted on 400 male and female adults from 20s to 50s. The questionnaire consisted of bag purchase behaviors, bag design preferences, and the subjects' demographic characteristics. The data were analyzed by Cronbach's α, factor analysis, x² test and t-test using SPSS. The results were as follows. First, as bag selection criteria, four factors (practicality, symbolism, aesthetics, and economics) were derived, and adult consumers considered economics as the most important among the factors. As for purchasing information sources, three factors (media, human resources, and store) were derived, and adult consumers considered human resources and store information sources more important than media. The main motive for purchasing bags was age and damage of the owned products, and Internet shopping malls were the most common purchasing place. The average annual cost of purchasing bags was 100,000 to 300,000 won, and the frequency of purchase was about once a year. Second, as bag preference images, four factors (individual, romantic, active, and classic image) were derived, and adult consumers preferred classic images the most. The shoulder bag was the most preferred as the bag shape, and black was the most preferred bag color. For the material, natural leather was the most preferred, and for the size, medium size was the most preferred. Third, bag purchasing behaviors and design preferences showed many significant differences according to the sex and age of the consumers. Therefore, the results of this study suggests that bag companies need to establish product development and marketing strategies in consideration of differences according to the sex and age group of adult consumers.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.165-184
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expanded characteristics that can be found in the fashion designs of JUUN. J. For the study, the concept and discourse related to theme expansion have been theoretically reviewed, and various types of expansive characteristics were derived by reviewing prior research related to the keyword expanded characteristics. Photo data required for the analysis were collected through the official website of JUUN. J and Vogue, a worldwide fashion magazine. The scope of the survey was limited to 983 photographs collected from 28 collections from 2009 S/S through 2022 F/W. The results are as follows. First, the expansion of the human body, which is achieved by adding an empty space between the body and the clothing or using various materials to express the volume of the body, is expressed through two different forms in the designs of JUUN. J. Second, the expansion of time expresses the combination of different timelines, the meeting of the past and present or awe toward the unpredictable future. Third, the expansion of style, which is expressed by reinterpreting existing costumes or styles, is a type of expansion' that appears individually in the fashion designs of JUUN J. Such expansion of style can be found in the military inspired designs. Fourth, the expansion of space, which diversifies our perception of space by re-recognizing the concept of space, was implemented into the works and designs of JUUN. J through the convergence of different cultural aspects. Fifth, the expansion of gender, which is expressed through the continuous exploration of the borders of gender and the delivery of social messages, has appeared in the works of JUUN J. in the form of genderless design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.93-106
• /
• 2023

The study is to develop and present a leggings pattern that is suitable for the human body by using a standard body type avatar for a female in her 30s. As a research method, the average body type was selected from adult women in their 30s, and the appearance was evaluated using the CLO software program. The data analysis of this study compared the dimensions and shape of each part by legging. The leggings pattern suggested based on the above research results was determine to be a total length of 80.6cm and hip length of 24cm, and the knee length was set by dividing the legging in half from the waist to the hem and then adding 5cm. These figures were evaluated higher than Company D in terms of the adequacy of the upper part of the front and rear plates of Company A as well as the adequacy of the knee lines. Company A's figures were applied and corrected. For the front plate, the waist circumference was divided by 4, and 3.5cm was removed, and the hip circumference was set by dividing the hip circumference by 4, and 3.8cm was removed. In the appearance evaluation results Company D was highly evaluated in the suitability evaluation of the waist and hips, and the waist and hips were set using the pattern of Company D. The length of the front panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 4 and adding 1.8cm to the length, and the length of the back panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 3 and adding 8cm after dividing the hip circumference by 0.8cm.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2024

This study aims to investigate the differences in blue jean styles and the visual images associated with them. To achieve this, literature reviews, case studies, and surveys were conducted. The results are as follows. 1) Based on previous studies, it was found that the design elements influencing the style of blue jeans and their visual images include waistline position, silhouette, details, decorations, and color. Additionally, differences in the preferences and visual evaluations of Korean and Chinese individuals regarding the style of blue jeans were confirmed. 2) Skinny blue jeans are typically characterized by a high waistline and a length that reaches the ankles, featuring a snug fit with stretchy fabric. Straight blue jeans, on the other hand, usually have a natural or high waistline and cover the instep, with a straight silhouette descending from the thigh to the hem. Bell-bottom blue jeans are primarily high-waisted and cover the instep with a silhouette forming a bell shape from the knee to the hem. 3) Korean and Chinese women in their 20s evaluated skinny, straight, and bell-bottom styles of blue jeans as having a 'casual' image. However, they also associated bell-bottom style blue jeans with 'unique' and 'attractive' images. Interestingly, Korean women described skinny-style blue jeans as making someone look 'youthful', while Chinese women perceived them as 'sophisticated', 'making the waist look thicker', and 'unassuming'. As for straight-style blue jeans, Korean women saw them as 'well-fitting', while Chinese women described them as 'making one appear taller', 'desirable', and 'free-spirited'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.21-35
• /
• 2011

Thanks to the popularization of golf, the population of young golfers including female players has been continuously increasing and the market specialization of golf-wear has been gradually intensifying with a growing number of new import brands in the market. This study is aimed to provide a direction to strengthen and invigorate the competitiveness of domestic golf wear brands through research on the benefits pursued by, the purchase attitudes towards local and overseas brands and the purchasing behaviors of female customers who have emerged as the newest customer group in the golf-wear market. The subjects of the research were 409 female golfers and the statistical analyses used for the study were factor analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Scheffe test, and chi-square test. The results showed that there were six factors sought for golf-wear benefits: figure compensation, brand orientation, comfort, youth/fashion, maturity/conformity, and individuality. Cluster analysis showed that there were three groups of golf-wear benefits sought. Overall, the three groups were different in regard to golf involvement and golf-wear preferences. Based upon the results mentioned above, this study summarizes the key features of each group and can provide applicable suggestions for conducting strategic marketing activities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.59-71
• /
• 2011

As an exaggerated-shoulder becomes a growing trend women's clothing, the crescent shaped sleeve with parallel style lines in the arm hole is a highly used women's sleeve pattern. This study develops and provides an applicable method for making the crescent shaped power shoulder sleeve. An efficient basic method for making the 2 piece crescent shaped sleeve was developed and the sensory appearance test was carried out with experimental clothes. There are two principles for making the crescent shaped sleeve: having a style line in the sleeve and pasting part of the cut arm hole of the bodice to the sleeve. The latter would be more convenient for a 2 piece sleeve, mostly used for jackets. The crescent shaped sleeve used in power shoulder jackets should set the shoulder angle as you wish to extend and raise the shoulder point of the bodice and sleeve to the same height. For a stronger power shoulder image, a 3 piece sleeve has a better appearance. Also, the height of the shoulder has to be enhanced with a shoulder pad for a more stable sleeve.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.159-167
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study is to understand graffiti images in fashion trends since 2000 and to play a guiding role in the development of fashion designs. The methods of this study are an academic literature review as well as practical study through actual case studies about. The formative characteristics of graffiti in fashion since 2000 are summarized as amusement, abstract and improvisation as follows. First, amusement graffiti is humble, weak and unfinished, but the immature and informal characters give people vitality, composure and enjoyment. It stirs up memories of childhood and induces a close affinity and comfort, and so It expresses relaxing and cozy desire. Second, abstract graffiti represents ambiguity and obscurity beyond form. It is born by reacting to equality, symmetry, mechanism, man-created beauty and the completeness of modernism. The characteristics are disorder, uncertainty, incompletion, uniformity, freedom, nature and so on. Third, improvisation graffiti is deeply related to 'indeterminacy' of post modernism which cannot forecast a perfection. This is more important as a process than an effect. Improvisation pursues humanism which denies perfection and determinacy by reaction of new technology.