• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.747-764
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• 1995

The purpose of the present study were 1) to identify the dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure, 2) to analyze effects of several elements of apparel design on impression formation of the figure in suit. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 60 drawings made by identical manipulations of 3 indepndent variables in 3 clothing styles(suit, dress and pants with blouse). The independent variables were (1) five clothing colors (red, blue, yellow, white and black), (2) two lengths(short/long) of suit skirt, dress, and pants (3) two types of blouse and dress collars (shirt collar/ribbon collar). The 7-point semantic differential response scale to measure the dependent variables (formed impressions of the female figure) was composed of 37 bipolar adjectives. Further- more, two open-ended questions were used for interpretation of the reponses. The study proceeded in three independent experimental part was based on the 3 clothing styles using a 5(color)$\times$2(length)$\times$2(collar) factorial design. Subject were 200 female undergraduate students reandomly assigned to one of 20 combinations in each part of the experiment. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, 3-way ANOVA and Multiple Classification Analysis. Five factors emerged to account for the dimensional structure of impression of the female figure in specific attire. These factors included three basic dimensions of impression identified as potency, activity and evaluation, confirming the results of previous studies. Result from open-ended questionaire supported the theoretical perspective of Schneider, Hastorf and Ellsworth on the procedure of impression formation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권9_10호
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• pp.1329-1340
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to survey about the images of the sexy clothes that young women sympathize in modern society, that is, to make a research into the cognitive dimensions of 'Sexy image' and the constructive peculiarity of clothing. The researches into dimension of image by sexy clothing make that female mainly consist of in their twenties during May to October in 2003. The independent variables were: 1) The physical beauty dimension, 2) The negative estimate dimension, 3) The characteristic devaluation dimension,4) The elegance/ high grade dimension,5) The freshness/ beauty dimension,6) The sex appeal/ exposure dimension. Judging from each characteristic of costume in classified by articles, that is, colors, texture, shapes, details, and others-phenomenon of outerization of under clothing, print. We can know the clothes showing up our nice figures are the sleeveless design tied with strap, soft texture as silk chiffon and the colors that are not strong. And there were no embarrassed, ugly and pitiful clothing. Expressing sexy beauty by clothing is the result that the wearer produces intentionally by compounding design factors, it's the ideal when the observer's reaction and the wearer's intention correspond. Therefore, it will be helpful in expressing ideally if the subject, what kinds of sexy beauty the compounding design factors express, is studied carefully. Also it is expected to be used in grasping modem consumers' desires that want to look sexy, finding out how to express, dealing with the consumers' desires correctly, and the reference materials of the planning goods, sales promotion, and selecting of a medium of advertisement according to the consumers' desires.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.349-359
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• 1996

The research was designed to find out the effects of design elements ; ①color, ②pattern, on image perception of clothing by using a qualitative depth interview method. The subjects were 40 women who lived in Taejon and aged 20 to 40. The interview results were both hand recorded and tape recorded for further analysis by researchers and judge groups. And the results were as follows. 1. The most preferred colors appeared to be blue and black, while stripes, checks and flowers were most favorite patterns. 2. There were individual difference in color and pattern perception, however the color image of yellow was brightness, red was dashing, green comfortable, blue cool, and black tightness. The image of geometric pattern was modesty and natural motif pattern was dynamics. 3. The tow major forces which affected the image of design elements were appeared as followed : 1) Color images affected by the image of natural objects which obtained the color. 2) Individuals past experience and emotional status also affected the personal image perception. 4. The color and pattern preference for the Koran traditional customes and Western tow piece were significantly different and this result imply cultural stereotyping on image perception of design elements. On conclusion, the results supported the research model of form perception and image evaluation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.984-994
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• 1995

The dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure in specific attire was identified and significant influence of skirt length and suit color on impression formed of figures in suits were researched in the part I of this study. In part ll, the effect of identical elements of apparel design on impression formation of a female figure in dress and pants- blouse were studied. The experimental matirals consisted of two sets of stimuli and 7 point semantic differential response scale developed in part 1. Each set of stimuli was composed of 20 drawings representing female figures in each attire. Three independent variables, which were the length of bottom, color of dress or pants and collar type of blouse, were manipulated in each stimulus. The experiment was arranged by 3 factorial design, and the data were analyzed by 3-way ANOVA and by Multiple Classification Analysis. To summarize, in impression formation of figure in dress, the most dominant design element was identified as bottom length and the second most dominant one was color of dress. In contrast, in perception of figure in pants-blouse, the most important design element was color of pants and secondly important one was bottom length. The collar type of top didn't have critical effect on impression formation of figures in both type of attire.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1287-1296
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• 1997

The purpose of the study is to make experimental whether three-dimensional body (especially face) has illusion based on theoretical background of form dimensions and color bright among precedent multi-form illusion, using the function of computer simulation. To investigate illusion that factors of clothing design(line, color, material) effect face, as the following is tried to solve giving change to neckline, collar, scarf which is believed to influence near face. How to make experiment as follows watching in order 13 scenes of a pair of with basic design and experiment design. Then the data were subjected to analysis of variance and Duncan's multiple range test. The result of this studying as follows, 1. Face looks larger in complex neckline than simple neckline. The larger collar is the larger face looks. 2. In white jacket, illusion(the lower luminosity of scarf color gets, the brighter face brightness gets) is shown. In black jacket, also illusion(the higher luminosity of scarf color gets, the darker face brightness gets) is shown. 3. In experiment on hardness and softness of face impression according to the material of collar, collar of knit and fur gives us assimilation illusion bring softer impression of face.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• 복식
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• 제45권
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• pp.5-16
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 Navajo 직물의 역사적 발달을 고전시대를 중심으로 살펴보고 특히 외부영향에 따른 직물의 변화를 고찰하는데 있다. 구체적으로 1) 고전시대의 전통적인 직물은 어떻게 발달하였는가\ulcorner 2) 고전시대 직물의 전통적 요소와 외부영향요인은 어떤 점이 다른가\ulcorner 예 초점을 맞추었다. 연구방법은 아메리카 인디언의 이동,문화 Navajo 직조 및 직물에 대한 문헌을 바탕을 조사하였고 아리조나 주립박물과 아리조나 역사 박물관을 방문하였으며 박물관 안에 있는 전문가들의 조언을 듣고 연구의 자료를 보완하였다. 또 비교 미학적 차원에서 고전시대 navajo 직물의 전통적 요소와 외부영향 요인을 분석하였고 외부영향을 받은 직물의 예를 시각적자료로 제시하였다. 이연구는 인디언직물에 대한 이해, 고전시대. Navajo 직물의 문헌고찰을 통한 민족의복의 문화적측면에 기여할수 이고 현대적 감각을 지닌 Navajo 직물을 한국직물에 접목 응용하는데 도움을 줄수 있다 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. Navajo 직물을 고전, 전환, 양탄자 시대로 구분되었고. 이중에서 고전시대가 navajo 직물의 특성을 가장 잘 나타내었으며 발달된 직조기술을 보였다. Navajo인들의 직조기술은 1863년경 최고조에 달했다. Navajo 직물의 디자인 주제로 주로 인간을 둘러싸고 있는 환경에서 얻어졌고 이것들은 직선의 기하학적 형태로 구체화되었다. 또한 직물에 표현된 색도 자연과 밀접한 관련성을 갖는 있었다. 2. Navajo 직물의 주용한 용도는 여성용 드레스, 남성용 셔츠는 어깨에 걸치는 두르개였다. 여성용 드레스는 동일한 크기의 직물의 두장을 직조한 후에 꿰매었고 남성용 셔츠는 머리가 들어갈수 있는 구멍이 있는 장방형 판쵸 스타일이었다. 어깨에 걸치는 두르개는 여성의 경우 가운데가 검은색이고 가장자리가 푸른색인형태오 흰색과 붉은 색이 교대로 나타나는 형태의 2가지가 있었고 남성용은 고전시대의 대표라고 일컬어지는 족장 두르개였다. 3. Navajo 직물은 외부의 영향을 받아 많은 변화를 가져왔다. 즉 스페인 사람들로 인하여 면 섬유대신 양모섬유를 사용하게 되었고 전통적 모양과 다른직물이 출현하게 되었다. 또한 인디고 염류, 색소니 실, 바에타 직물의 도입으로 다양한 색상의 표현이 가능해졌고 이와 관련하여 다이아몬드 십자형 톱니형 무늬드이 나타나게 되었다. 4, 고전시대를 대표하는 직물로 족장 두르개, 쇼올, 안장덮개를 들수 있으며 이 직물들에서 뚜렷하게 외부영향 요인을볼수 있다. 즉 족장 두르개의 가장 정교한 단계에서 다이아몬드 무늬가 가장가리 가운데 모서리에 위치하여 9지점 배치를 이룬 것 쇼올의 경우 폭보다 길이가 긴 형태의 비전통적 모습을 나타낸 것 안장덮개에서 보여지는 여덟포인트 별 무늬도 외부의 영향을 받은예이다. 뛰어난 직조기술로 유명한 navajo인들은 변화에 잘 적응하는 특성을 갖고 있었다. 외부의 영향을 그들은 긍정적으로 받아들였고 자기 자신들의 필요에 맞도록 수정하여 정체감을 잃지 않으면서도 문화를 발전시켰다. 따라서 고전시대의 Navajo 직물은 고유적 요인과 외래적 요인의 조화를잘 나타내고 있으며 디자인의 탁월함이 세련됨 천연염료와 인조염료의 배\ulcorner에 의한 색상의 우월성 등으로 오늘까지 높이 평가되고있다.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.197-207
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• 2001

디자인된 사물은 형태, 색채, 소재를 통해 그 의미나 이미지를 전달한다. 이 세 가지 요소 중에서 소재는 촉각적·시각적 특성을 함께 지님으로써 디자인 작업에 있어서 좀 더 독특한 영향을 준다. 한국에서는 전통적으로 생활용품의 고안에 있어서 색채나 장식보다 소재 자체의 특성이 더 중요하게 사용되어왔으며 이에 대한 현대적 활용이 탐구되어야할 필요가 있다. 본 연구의 목적은 한국 전통 생활환경에서 사용된 소재를 수집하고, 그 표면에 나타난 질감적 특성에 의해 이를 체계적으로 분류하려는 것이다. 이 연구를 위해 민속촌 둥의 현장조사와 더불어 문헌고찰을 통해 한국 전통소재가 표현된 사진들을 수집하였다. 수집 대상은 전통건축 및 실내, 가구, 의복 및 직물소재, 예술 및 공예품, 생활용품 등 생활의 각 분야가 모두 포함되도록 하였다. 수집된 소재의 총 사례 수는 543개였으며 이는 금속재, 토재, 석재, 지재, 목재, 초재, 섬유재 둥 7가지로 나눌 수 있었다. 각 소재들의 사례 수는 금속재가 59개, 토재 115개, 석재 62개, 지재 73개, 목재 80개, 초재 47개, 섬유재 97개, 기타 10개였다. 각 소재들은 표면의 질감적 특성에 의해 성형방법과 표면장식으로 나누어 정리 되었다. 본 연구를 통해 한국에서 전통적으로 사용되어온 각 소재들은 그 성형방법과 표면장식이 다양하고 독특함을 알 수 있었다. 또한 각 소재별로 개발된 가공방법들에 의한 다양한 질감은 오늘날의 디자이너들에게도 풍부한 정보와 아이디어를 제공할 수 있을 것으로 전망한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권3호
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• pp.266-278
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• 2018

This study investigated the transformation of the Chanel jacket by looking at clothing design and constructional components. This study explored Chanel jacket's designs from 2001 S/S to 2016-17 F/W, and collected designs from Samsung Design Net and Vogue. The study used 690 designs with the following results. First, in the silhouette of the Chanel jacket, straight silhouette and hourglass silhouette had the most; in addition, in the length, hip line and under hip line were in order. Second, in case of collar and neckline, the form of a non-collar was the most and revealed the persistence of round neckline which is the basic style of a Chanel jacket. Third, in the shape of sleeves, the loose-fit straight sleeves, wide sleeves, and cocoon sleeves appeared most often. In method of closure, button, zipper were in order, and snaps or without closure appeared. Fourth, in the form of braids, various forms such as twisted yarns, leashes, or lace were used, and patch pockets were mainly used in pockets. Chanel maintains its original design by using various methods. Chanel tried to improve activity and functionality through silhouettes, lengths, necklines, and sleeves. The unchanging expression of the world of Chanel will continue to display and inherit future value. This study can provide Chanel's unique characteristics and new ideas that can transform their origins for jacket design.

• 정보처리학회논문지B
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• 제11B권6호
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• pp.683-690
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• 2004

3차원 의상 모델링과 시뮬레이션은. 디지털 콘텐츠에서 중요한 요소가 되었다. 이를 위한 여러 도구들이 개발되었으나, 고유한 의복을 표현하는 가상 의상의 디자인은 그래픽 디자이너에게 어려운 작업이며 의상에 대한 전문지식을 필요로 한다. 특히, 한복의 경우는 옷감, 재단방식, 착용법 등에서 양복과는 구성학적 차이점을 지니므로 모델링이 더욱 어렵다. 본 연구에서는 한복 제작에 대한 전문성이 없이도 한복을 쉽게 모델링 할 수 있도록 하는 지식 기반 접근법을 제안한다. 특히, 실사 및 가상 옷감의 시각적 유사성 판단 방법에 의해 옷감 소재 특성 규칙베이스를 구축하고, 신체 특성이 다른 캐릭터들의 체형 특성을 반영한 한복 사이즈의 부분별 다단계 조정 방법을 지식베이스 화하였다. 제안된 지식 기반 모델링 방법은 마야의 플러그-인으로서 제작되었고 다양한 신체형에 대한 드레이핑(착용 시뮬레이션) 실험을 통해 적용 가능성을 보였다.