• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2012.03a
• /
• pp.61-61
• /
• 2012

현재 기능성 의류 섬유시장에서도, 요구하는 주요 기능들의 퍼포먼스 수준을 보여주는 과학적 수치들과 함께 기능성 섬유제작 과정에서 얼마나 친환경적인 제조과정을 거쳤는가에 대한 정보들도 요구하고 있는 중이다. 섬유에 인간과 환경에 유해한 성분이 최대한 배제됐으며 생산 과정에서의 자연자원의 낭비가 이뤄지지 않았음을 증명해야한다. CPB 전처리 공정은 혼방직물과 같이 서로 다른 물성을 가지는 직물에 대한 저온 처리로 섬유 손상을 최소화하고, $CO_2$ 발생량 및 에너지 소비량을 감소시킬 수 있는 이점이 있다. CPB 전처리는 호발, 정련, 표백을 포함하는 공정으로 일욕으로 처리 시 패딩, 수세, 와인딩 공정을 단축시키기 때문에 약품 소비량 감소와 에너지 사용 절감 효과가 있어 전 세계적으로 확산되고 있는 Green Technology이다. 본 연구에서는 CPB용 전처리 조제(4~5종)을 일욕화 하여 가공업체 생산성 향상 및 원가절감, 환경유해성 감소를 목표로 하여 CPB 전처리의 최적 가공조건을 확립하는 것이 목표이다. 첨가 용제의 종류 및 첨가량을 변화시켜 각 조성비에 따른 sample을 제조하여 정련성, 호발성, 알칼리 안정성, Whiteness를 측정하여 전처리 성능을 분석하고, 과수안정성, 금속이온 봉쇄력을 비교하여 최적 조성비 및 중합조건을 확립하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.980-989
• /
• 2009

Amur cork tree was extracted in methanol with the purpose of investigating the most effective extraction procedure for detecting the chromophore using the GC-MS analysis. Different procedures of waterbath and hotplate extractions were carried out and five different GC-MS instrument parameters including the operating temperatures in the GC capillary column and the MSD scan range were tested for their efficiencies. Berberine was determined by the detection of dihydroberberine at 15.0 min r.t. Hotplate was a better device for extracting amur cork tree than waterbath shaker either with or without presoaking in the room temperature. Water was not an adequate extraction medium for the berberine detection. The most effective GC-MS parameter was Method 4; the initial temperature at $50^{\circ}C$ followed by the temperature increase of $23^{\circ}C$/min until $210^{\circ}C$, then increase of $30^{\circ}C$/min until the final temperature reach at $305^{\circ}C$, then hold for 14 minutes to maintain the total run time 24.12 minutes. The MSD scan range for Method 4 was $35\sim400$m/z.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.12 s.148
• /
• pp.1608-1618
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this investigation was to investigate the degradation products of the dye component extracted from madder dyed fabrics using the GC-MS analysis and to evaluate the change of color due to degradation treatment. Four different degradation protocols were used in this study,; refrigeration at $7^{\circ}C$ (LT), room temperature (RT), oven treatment at $100^{\circ}C$ (OV), and $H_2O_2/UV(PER)$ method. Degradation times for each thermal system were 6 hour, 24 hour, 48 hour, 1 week, 2 week, 4 week. Alizarin was detected from the control and degraded samples of both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. Benzoic acid, 2, 4-di-tert-butylphenol, phthalic anhydride were detected as the degradation products for both alizarin dyed and madder dyed fabrics. The result suggest that these products can be used as the fingerprints of GC-MS analysis for the identification of madder dye in archaeological textiles. Both alizarin dyed and madder dyed samples became less red and less yellow after degradation. In the PER degradation system madder dyed sample showed the greatest color difference even after 1 week of degradation treatment. Further research is necessary for investigating the color change in the exhumed textiles, which is caused by the dual action of dye fading and the staining of organic matters in the soil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.12 s.148
• /
• pp.1546-1553
• /
• 2005

The wetting behavior and liquid transport of nonionic surfactant solutions; Span 20 and Tween 20, 40, 60, 80, 21, 61, 81, 65 & 85: in polyethylene terephthalate(PET) fabrics are reported. Five different PET fabrics are used in this study. PET 1, 2 & 3 have different compactness in structure. PET 4 & 5 have similar physical properties to PET 2, however, PET 4 has heat set finish and PET 5 with rewetting agent. The wetting and water retention properties of PET fabrics are greatly improved by addition of nonionic surfactants. The aqueous liquid retention(W) vs. cosq and W vs. adhesion tension has positive linear relationship. Hydrophilic surfactants which have short hydrophobes and surfactants with unsaturated hydrophobe structures are more efffctive in improving the wetting properties of PET fabrics. PET fabric which has larger thread spacing shows greater value of water retention ratio(W/H) than PET fabric with smaller thread spacing if there are no surfactants present in the system, however, W/H values become very similar among these PET fabrics when the surfactants are added. If there are no surfactants present in the system, PET with heat set finish has smaller value and PET with rewetting agent has greater value of W/H than PET without finish even though the fabrics have the similar physical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.5 s.164
• /
• pp.659-669
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia and sappanwood by Ultraviolet Light(UV). To asses the effect of uv on dyed silk fabrics, physical and chemical properties of samples were explored. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time. Mordanting improved ultraviolet-cut ability and the sappanwood dyed samples were superior to those of gardenia dyed in ultraviolet-cut ability. Color progressively faded away as uv exposure time increased, accordingly, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ were changed. Morphological change observed with SEM represented degradation of silk fabrics from the outer fibril to the inner fibril. Tensile Strength abruptly decreased as uv exposure time increased and the mordanted samples showed higher tensile strength than the unmordanted. FT-IR analysis confirmed that main peaks at 3297 and $1704cm^{-1}$ band for silk fabric were due to N-H and C=O stretching, gardenia peaks at 1654 and $668cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(ester), C=C(alken) and O-C=O(carboxylic acids) of crocin and sappanwood peaks at $1715cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(cyclic keton) of brazilin appeared on the samples exposed for 14 days, but these peaks indicating colorants after 28 days of uv exposure faded away due to prolonged exposure of uv.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.12
• /
• pp.1662-1671
• /
• 2007

The change in physical properties of polypropylene nonwoven fabrics used as top sheet for disposable sanitary goods was carried out using chitosan that is a type of natural polymer and has excellent human affinity by varying the molecular weight and concentration of chitosan. Low molecular weight(LMW) chitosan treated fabrics were found to be evenly coated on fabrics and had better dyeability by apparent dye uptake and its deodorization rate increased over the time. On the other hand, high molecular weight(HMW) chitosan treated fabrics showed higher add-on ratio and its dynamic water absorption rate and represented an increase in water transport rate. With chitosan treatment, its air permeability was improved. Regardless of the type of bacteria and chitosan concentration, its antibacterial activity was excellent in the case of the HMW chitosan treatment. In this regard, chitosan treatments by using a relatively high molecular weight was found as an effective way in the functional improvement of moisture properties and antibacterial activity including their most important performance in sanitary nonwoven fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.12
• /
• pp.1754-1760
• /
• 2007

To improve poor dye uptake of safflower yellow colorants, cellulose fibers were pretreated with chitosan. The effect of chitosan pretreatment on the dyeability of safflower yellow colorants to cotton, ramie, and rayon was investigated in terms of dye uptake, color, and colorfastness. Irrespective of fiber types, dye uptake increased continuously with increase in chitosan concentration. Chitosan pretreatment improved dye uptake up to 5.6 times for cotton, 7.2 times for ramie, and 3.7 times for rayon. For cotton and ramie, the shade of dyed fabric changed YR color to Y color with increase in chitosan concentration. Dyed rayon fabrics showed Y color irrespective of chitosan concentration. Shades got darker and deeper with increasing chitosan concentration. Shades of chitosan pretreated fabrics were shifted differently depending on dyeing temperature within same fabrics. In common, the color of all dyed fabrics changed to YR at 50 and $70^{\circ}C$ while Y color at 30 and $90^{\circ}C$. V and C value decreased with increase in dyeing temperature and resulted in darker and duller color, in general. Light fastness was fair while washing fastness was poor. It was confirmed that ultrasonic dyeing method enhanced dye uptake more than 30% for cotton and ramie fabrics compared to the conventional automatic machine dyeing method. However, no difference in dye uptake between two dyeing methods was found for rayon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.12 s.159
• /
• pp.1723-1729
• /
• 2006

Drapability is an important factor determining the end-use of fabrics. In this research, characteristics of drapability of men's and women's suit fabrics were analyzed. The hand and the preference for suit fabrics were measured by the subjective and objective evaluations. To find out the details of the drapability characteristics of suit fabrics, the drape was measured by using Cusick drape tester and was processed by image analysis software. Seasonal difference was obvious both in men's and women's fabrics. The average drape ratio of women's S/S suit fabrics showed the highest value, 0.724, then decreased in the order of men's F/W> men's S/S> women's FW. Wave amplitude showed the same order to the drape ratio. Men's fabrics were more drapable in spring and summer season rather than in fall and winter season. Women's fabrics showed the opposite trend, in other words, S/S suit fabrics were less drapable than F/W fabrics. There was also a significant difference in drape ratio between men's and women's fabrics regardless of season. For S/S, men's fabrics were more drapable than women's ones, whereas, for F/W, women's fabrics were more drapable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.12
• /
• pp.1883-1896
• /
• 2009

This paper explores the use of Korean wrapping cloths (bojagi) in the late Joseon period and the types of decorations applied to them. Korean wrapping cloths called bojagi are pieces of cloths used by households of all social classes for practical purposes such as wrapping presents and covering food. In addition to the basic purposes, the making of bojagi was also an activity to express the down-to-earth wishes and the satisfaction of creation by the designer. With regard to the decorative feature of Korean wrapping cloths, five types of, patchwork, embroidered, painted, printed, and oiled-paper wrapping cloths, were examined. The patchwork wrapping cloths (jogakbo) show the frugality of Joseon women in addition to the well-developed composition skill of lines and colors. The embroidered wrapping cloths were prepared for special rituals and ceremonies such as weddings. Painted wrapping cloths were decorated with a Chinese-colors technique (called dangchae) or sometimes with black ink painting. For printed wrapping cloths, various sizes of woodblock printings and roller printings were used. Although monotone black ink was the main color applied to the printing, there was also wrapping cloths made from chintz having brilliant fast colors. Oiled-paper wrapping cloths called sikjibo were in use only for covering food. Cut-out work was employed to decorate it.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.7
• /
• pp.1236-1246
• /
• 1997

본 연구는 1960년대 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어온 동양문화의 도입, 특히, 인도문화가 청년문화 전반에 끼친 영향과 더 나아가 이러한 환경변화가 미국대학복식에 미친 영향을 알아보고자 하였다. 1960년대 미국청년문화에 나타난 인도 문화의 영향은 철학, 종교 대중음악 등 다방면에서 보여졌으며, 또한 복식의 형태에도 반영되었다. 복식학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론에만 그쳤던 이러한 복식의 현상을 본 연구는 문헌조사에 의한 객관적이고 과학적인 연구방법을 이용하여 입증하고자 시도하였다. Washington, D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역에 위치한 7개의 대학교에서 1960년 부터 1975년 사이에 발행한 대학신문에서 연구자료를 수집하여, 체계적인 자료수집 및 분석을 위한 연구방법으로 사회과학분야에서 주로 사용되어 온 Content Analysis Method를 이용하였다. Content Analysis Method는 예비연구(preliminary study)의 결과를 기초로 인도 복식의 영향을 받은 미국대학복식의 형태를 크게 의복(clothes), 장신구(accessories), 직물(fabrics) 등의 3개 category로 분류하여, 다시 13개의 subcategory(kurta, midriff top, Nehru jacket/suit, Indian shirt/blouse/smock/dress, sari, Indian jewelry, Indian sandal, Indian urn, Indian bedspread. Indian embroidery, Indian print, madras, tie-dye)로 세분하였다. 복식의 형태에 의한 분류외에도, 대학신문의 광고나 기사에 실린 내용을 인도복식이 미친 엮향의 정보를 알아보기 위하여 Attribution information을 3 category(originated, attributed, connotated)로 분류하여 조사하였다. 더불어, 같은 문헌에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4개의 주된 종교(Transcendental Meditation, Hare Krishna, Yoga. Divine Light Mission)의 빈도도 조사하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 13개의 가인도복식스타일(Indian style)의 Frequency(빈도), Attribution, Duration(기간)의 내응을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 Duration(기간)의 내용을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 합계와 연도를 축으로 하는 막대그래프를 작성하고 이 그래프에 Attribution Category의 내용도 함께 볼 수 있도록 정리하였다. 대학복식에 나타난 인도의 영향은 여성복식과 남성복식에 있어서 서로 유사점과 차이점이 보이는데, 인도의 영향이 여성복식에 있어서 그 빈도가 더 높고, 종류가 더 다양함을 볼 수 있다. 여성복식에 있어서는 12가지의 다양한 인도복식스타일이 나타났으며, 그중 가장 많이 보이는 스타일은 Indian Shirt/Blouse/Smock/ Dress이며, 그 뒤를 이어 Madras, Indian lowery등을 볼 수 있다. 남성복식애 나타난 7가지의 스타일 중에는 Madras가 가장 빈도가 높으며 그외의 스타일들은 그 빈도가 매우 낮음을 볼 수 있다. 인도의 영향의 정도 (Attribution Categories) 있어서는 여성과 남성복식 모두에 있어서 인도에서 직접 수입된(originated) item이 각각 전체의 90%와 81%를 차지하여, 인도복식의 영향은 받았으나 미국내에서 제작된(attributed and connotated) item 보다 휠씬 더 많은 수를 보였다. 인도복식스타일이 가장 많이 보여지는 시기(Peak period)는 여성과 남성복식에 있어 모두 1968년에서 1971년 사이로 공통점을 보였다. 이러한 결과는 미국 청년 문화에 전반적으로 나타났던 반문화적 현상과 동일한 시기로서, 이는 사회 현상이 복식에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 또한 같은 시기의 대학신문에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4 개의 종교 역시 1960년대 후반 부터 그 빈도가 증가하여 1970년에 리고의 빈도가나타낭으로서 앞의 결과를 뒷받침해 주고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Washington,D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역의 대학신문만을 연구자료로 사용하였으나 앞으로는 새로운 연구 자료의 발굴과 연구대상을 타 지역으로 확대시키므로서 미국내 전체의 청년복식에 대한 이해를 증가시킬 수 있을 것이다.