• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.163-163
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• 2016

선박의 대형화 등으로 인한 세계적인 항만들이 하역능력의 제고를 위하여 선박의 대형화, 고속화, 전용선화에 있어 큰 움직임을 보이고 있다. 또한 항만의 연간 작업가능일수 확보를 위하여 신항만 건설시 항 내 정온도 향상을 위하여 최적의 방파제 배치 및 최선의 소파기술에 대한 연구지원을 아끼지 않고 있다. 이뿐 아니라 최근 파랑 수치모형의 정확성이 향상되고 계산시간이 단축됨으로써 각 격자 상에 입력된 수심정보와 입사경계에서의 입사정보 경계면에서의 경계(반사율) 정보로부터 손쉽게 천해파랑 정보를 산출할 수 있게 되었다. 본 연구에서는 스펙트럼을 통해 각각의 파고와 주기를 추출하였으며, 쌍곡선형 완경사 방정식을 수치 해석하여 불규칙파의 설계파를 산정하였다. 또한 Matlab을 사용하여 전 프로그램이 toolbox화 됨으로써 운영하는데 편리하고 특히 다양한 지형의 적용에 용이하게 되었다. Matlab은 다른 언어와 달리 전 프로그램이 vectorizing 되어 계산시간이 상당히 단축되었다. 본 연구를 통해 실무자들이 항만이나 어항 등 연안해역 개발시 유의파고를 사전에 예측하여 연안해역 개발하는 데 큰 도움이 되리라 기대한다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.267-275
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• 2013

This study projected the future ocean wave climate changes based on global climate change scenario using the coupled climate model HadGEM2-AO according to the emission scenarios and using regional wave model. Annual mean significant wave height (SWH) is linked closely to annual mean wind speed during the forthcoming 21st Century. Because annual mean speed decreased in the western North Pacific, annual mean SWH is projected to decrease in the future. The annual mean SWH decreases for the last 30 years of the 21st century relative to the period 1971-2000 are 2~7% for RCP4.5 and 4~11% for RCP8.5, respectively. Also, extreme SWH and wind speed are projected to decrease in the future. In terms of seasonal mean, winter extreme SWH shows similar trend with annual extreme SWH; however, that of summer shows large increasing tendency compared with current climate in the western North Pacific. Therefore, typhoon intensity in the future might be more severe in the future climate.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.109-115
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• 2016

The trend in appearance of storm waves on the east coast of Korea was investigated based on long-term wave data observed at six different stations. At the four wave stations of KIOST (Sokcho, Mukho, Hupo, and Jinha), no notable trend was found during the observation period with respect to the annual average and maximum values of the significant wave height. In addition, the annual number of the appearance of storm waves showed decreasing trend at the three stations except Jinha, where slightly increasing trend of the quantity was recognized. In contrast, at Donghea ocean data buoy of KMA, abruptly increasing trend was found for the annual average and maximum of the significant wave height and for the annual number of the appearance of storm waves as well, demonstrating lack of consistency in the observation data from Donghea buoy of KMA.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.139-147
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• 2021

In this study, waves were defined using the water surface elevation data observed from the HeMOSU-1 and 2 marine meteorological observation towers installed on the west coast of Korea, and correlation analysis was performed between wave parameters. The wave height and wave period were determined using the wave-train analysis method and the wave spectrum analysis method, and the relationship between the wave parameters was calculated and compared with the previous study. In the relation between representative wave heights, most of the correlation coefficients between waves showed a difference of less than 0.1% in error rate compared to the previous study, and the maximum wave height showed a difference of up to 29%. In addition, as a result of the correlation analysis between the wave periods, the peak period was estimated to be abnormally large at rates of 2.5% and 1.3% in HeMOSU-1&2, respectively, due to the effect of the bimodal spectrum that occurs when the spectral energy density is small.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.531-552
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• 2020

In the previous study, both the wave characteristics at the tip of composite breakwater and on caisson were investigated by applying olaFlow numerical model of three-dimensional regular waves. In this paper, the same numerical model and layout/shape of composite breakwater as applied the previous study under the action of one directional irregular waves were used to analyze two and three-dimensional spatial change of wave force including the impulsive breaking wave pressure applied to trunk of breakwater, the effect of rear region, and the occurrence of diffracted waves at the tip of caisson located on the high crested rubble mound. In addition, the frequency spectrum, mean significant wave height, mean horizontal velocity, and mean turbulent kinetic energy through the numerical analysis were studied. In conclusion, the larger wave pressure occurs at the front wall of caisson around the still water level than the original design conditions when it generates the shock-crushing wave pressure in three-dimensional analysis condition. Which was not occurred by two-dimensional analysis. Furthermore, it was confirmed that the wave pressure distribution at the caisson changes along the length of breakwater when the same significant incident wave was applied to the caisson. Although there is difference in magnitude, but its variation shows the similar tendency with the case of previous study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.177-187
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• 2022

This study estimates the design wave in the event of a typhoon attack at Busan new port using the wind field, the revised shallow water design wave estimation method proposed by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries in 2020, and proposed a reliable method of calculating the shallow water design through verification with the wave observation data. As a result of estimating typhoon wave using the wind field and SWAN numerical model, which are commonly used in the field work, for typhoon that affected Busan new port, it was found that reproducibility was not good except typhoons KONG-REY(1825) and MAYSAK(2009). In particular, in the case of typhoon MAEMI(0314), which had the greatest impact on Busan new port, the maximum significant wave height was estimated to be about 35.0% smaller than that of the observed wave data. Therefore, a plan to improve the reproducibility of typhoon wave was reviewed by applying the method of correcting the wind field and the method of using the Boussinesq equation numerical model, respectively. As a result of the review, it was found that the reproducibility of the wind field was not good as before when the wind field correction. However as a method of linking wind field data, SWAN model results, and Boussinesq numerical model, typhoon wave was estimated during typhoon MAEMI(0314), and the maximum significant wave was similar to the wave observations, so it was reviewed to have good reproducibility.

• Journal of Korean Society of Steel Construction
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• v.16 no.1 s.68
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• pp.73-79
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• 2004

Tuned Mass Damper (TMD) was applied to control the vibration of an offshore structure due to ocean waves. The errors caused by the linearization of the fluid-structure interaction effect and the phenomena when using the linearized equation of motion in TMD design were analyzed. To determine the performance of TMD in controlling vibration, both regular waves with varying periods and irregular waves with different significant wave heights were used. When the offshore structure received regular waves with a period similar to the first natural period of structure. TMD performed well in terms of response reduction. Such was not the case for the other periods. however, In the case of irregular waves, TMD triggered the reduction of structural response for waves with relatively small significant wave height. For irregular waves with relatively big significant wave height, however, TMD did not show any control effect. Therefore, TMD is useful in reducing offshore structural vibration due to ambient waves, thereby helping secure fatigue life.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-69
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• 2014

Analysis frequency spectrum through observed wave data in northeastern shore, jeju island, during winter and fall, and review wave characteristics. In order to compute maximum wave height, we calculate the ratio of significant wave height to maximum wave height using the linear regression equation. In addition, for calculating JONSWAP spectrum, we assumed ${\gamma}$ value using significant wave height and peak frequency in the observation area. Consequently, the highest frequency is below 1 m in the case of significant wave height and during the first observation, the mean of height was estimated at 0.523 m and during the scend observation, it was 0.423 m. Furthermore, in peak frequency, the highest frequency was 0.12 Hz~0.15 Hz (period is nearly 6.67s~8.33s), the results of ${\gamma}$ from using significant wave height and peak frequency is 2.72 and the significant wave height calculated by straight linear regression equation was $1.635H_s$.