• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.326-334
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• 2017

We obtain height of waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations. The one-layer Boussinesq equations of Lee et al. (2014) are used and the two-layer Boussinesq equations are derived following Cruz et al. (1997). For solitary waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the height of waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the height of waves passing through a high-crest breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the height of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.41-49
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• 2019

We approximately obtain heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer Boussinesq equations (Vu et al., 2018) and the two-layer Boussinesq equations (Huynh et al., 2017). For cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the heights of waves passing through a high-crested breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the heights of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the cnoidal wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2021.06a
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• pp.211-211
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• 2021

최근에 기후변화로 인한 한반도에 내습하는 태풍에 빈도는 점차 증가하고 있다. 2020년도 8월 26일 태풍 '바비', 9월 2일 태풍 '마이삭', 9월 7일 태풍 '하이선'은 일주일 내의 간격으로 한반도를 내습하였다. 한반도에 내습한 태풍 중에서 마이삭과 하이선은 동쪽 해역을 지나가면서 강풍과 많은 강우를 초래하였다. 그 결과 특정 원전은 자동 가동중지가 발생되는 사태를 야기 시켰다. 본 연구에서는 원자력 발전소 인근 해역에서 폭풍해일에 의한 가능최대파고 높이를 추정함으로써 발전소 안전성에 대한 검토에 목적을 두고 있다. 이를 위해 첫 번째로 '2019 전국 심해 설계파 산출 보고서'를 바탕으로 원전 인근 해역 심해 설계파 지점에 대해 파고, 주기, 해상풍과 같은 변수들을 분석하였다. 그 결과를 바탕으로 100년부터 1000만년까지의 변수들을 예측하였다. 두 번째로 해도자료를 바탕으로 GIS를 통한 지형자료를 구축하였다. 구축된 지형자료를 바탕으로 SWAN 모델의 기초자료를 구성하였다. 세 번째로 추정된 변수들과 구축된 지형자료를 바탕으로 100년부터 1000만년까지의 시나리오별 SWAN 시뮬레이션을 통해서 원전 인근 해역에 대한 가능 최대 파고 높이를 분석하였다. 그 결과를 바탕으로 특정 원전인근 해역에서의 평균적인 파고 높이에 대한 재해도 곡선을 추정하고 제시하였다. 본 연구를 바탕으로 향후 확률론적인 분석 방법을 적용하여 불확실성을 고려한 재해도 곡선 추정 과정의 기초자료로 활용될 수 있다. 또한 EurOtop을 적용하여 파고 높이에 따른 원전부지의 Overtopping을 추정하고, 최종적으로 폭풍해일에 의한 원전부지의 2차원 침수해석의 기초자료로 활용할 수 있을 것으로 판단된다. 이를 통해 홍수 방지 및 예방과 관련한 홍수저감 활동과 관련된 통제실 외부 시설물에 대한 수동 조작에 대한 안전성 평가가 이루어질 수 있겠다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.75-83
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• 2023

Apart from implementing hardware solutions like raising the crest freeboard of coastal structures to efficiently counter wave-overtopping, there is a simultaneous requirement for software-driven disaster mitigation strategies. These tactics involve the swift and accurate dissemination of wave-overtopping information to the inland regions of coastal zones, enabling the regulation of evacuation procedures and movement. In this study, a method was proposed to estimate wave-overtopping by utilizing the temporal variation of wave heights exceeding the structure's crown level, with the aim of developing an on-site wave measurement system for providing wave-overtopping information in the field. Laboratory model experiments were conducted on vertical seawall structures to measure wave-overtopping volumes and wave runup heights under different wave conditions and structural freeboard variations. By assuming that the velocity of water inundation on the top of the structure during wave-overtopping events is equivalent to the long-wave velocity, an overtopping discharge coefficient was introduced. This coefficient was utilized to estimate the rate of wave-overtopping based on the temporal changes in wave runup heights measured at the top of the structure. Upon reasonably calculating the overtopping discharge coefficient, it was verified that the estimation of wave-overtopping could be achieved solely based on the wave runup heights.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.477-480
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• 2006

본 논문에서는 한국 동해 강구항 전면해역에서 계절풍이 탁월한 3월과 태풍 우쿵(WUKONG) 내습시 8월에 수압식 파고계를 이용하여 파랑관측을 실시하였다. 관측파랑자료의 해석을 통해 관측시점에서의 계절풍 및 대풍내습시의 기상현황과 파랑과의 상호관련성, 발생파랑의 통계적 특성을 분석하였다. 그 결과에 따르면 관측기간동안 강구항 전면해역에서는 직립방파제 설계식의 관계식 $H_{max}\;=\;1.8H_S$를 초과하는 고파랑이 태풍 내습시 발생하며, 계절풍이 발달한 시기에는 약 3m 파고의 파랑이 발생하였다.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2018

In order to compare significant wave height (SWH) data from multi-satellites (GFO, Jason-1, Envisat, Jason-2, Cryosat-2, SARAL) and SWH measurements from Ieodo Ocean Research Station (IORS), we constructed a 12 year matchup database between satellite and IORS measurements from December 2004 to May 2016. The satellite SWH showed a root mean square error (RMSE) of about 0.34 m and a positive bias of 0.17 m with respect to the IORS wave height. The satellite data and IORS wave height data did not show any specific seasonal variations or interannual variability, which confirmed the consistency of satellite data. The effect of the wind field on the difference of the SWH data between satellite and IORS was investigated. As a result, a similar result was observed in which a positive biases of about 0.17 m occurred on all satellites. In order to understand the effects of topography and the influence of the construction structures of IORS on the SWH differences, we investigated the directional dependency of differences of wave height, however, no statistically significant characteristics of the differences were revealed. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of the error as a function of the distance between the satellite and the IORS, the biases are almost constant about 0.14 m regardless of the distance. By contrast, the amplitude of the SWH differences, the maximum value minus the minimum value at a given distance range, was found to increase linearly as the distance was increased. On the other hand, as a result of the accuracy evaluation of the satellite SWH from the Donghae marine meteorological buoy of Korea Meteorological Administration, the satellite SWH presented a relatively small RMSE of about 0.27 m and no specific characteristics of bias such as the validation results at IORS. In this paper, we propose a conversion formula to correct the significant wave data of IORS with the satellite SWH data. In addition, this study emphasizes that the reliability of data should be prioritized to be extensively utilized and presents specific methods and strategies in order to upgrade the IORS as an international world-wide marine observation site.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.586-591
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• 2007

최근 몇 년간 속초해역에서 발생한 이상고파의 특성을 현장관측 자료를 분석하고 수치모형실험 결과와 비교하여 검토하였다. 2004년 이후의 현장 관측을 통해 최소한 4회 이상 파고 5.0 m를 초과하는 이상고파가 발생하였다. 특히 2006년 10월 23일 11시에는 유의파고 9.69 m에 이르는 매우 큰 파가 관측되었다. 한편 천해역 파랑추산모형 SWAN을 사용하여 속초해역의 50년 및 100년빈도 심해설계파로부터 천해설계파를 산정하여 이상고파 관측 결과와 비교하였다. 수치모형실험에 의한 50년빈도 천해설계파의 최대치는 파향이 ESE 방향일 때 4.9 m에 지나지 않아서 관측된 이상고파의 파고에 비해 현저하게 작았다. 따라서 통상적으로 이루어지고 있는 수치모형을 이용한 천해설계파 산정만으로는 최근 몇 년간 수 차례 관측된 동해안에서의 이상고파를 적절하게 모의할 수 없으며 이에 대한 개선방안이 마련되어야 할 필요성이 있다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.178-189
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• 2004

For designing a reliable harbor, a methodology for estimating design waves of 97.5% operable harbor condition is suggested using long-term wave data. For a practical application of the methodology, a marine police harbor was selected as a site. Wave data used were collected from February 1993 to December 2003 at Jodo wave gage station in front of Pusan harbor. Joint distributions of significant wave height and significant wave period for specified wave directions were obtained and used to feed as input waves for parabolic mild-slope wave model. Results showed that input waves with significant wave height of 1.75 m, significant wave period off sec and wave direction E yield design waves height of 1.06 m at the site of interests, which is a 97.5% operable harbor condition. Wind waves generated inside harbor showed to be no effect on the design wave condition. Swells propagated from deep water into harbor are shown to be dominant effects on the design waves of operable harbor condition.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.88-99
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• 2019

This study presents the results of analysis for the wave data that were consecutively collected from February 2013 to November 2018 at the location of 1.6 km offshore from Namhangjin beach. The water depth at the location is 30.5 m and waves were measured by AWAC (Acoustic Wave And Current meter). By using wave-by-wave analysis and spectral analysis, wave heights and periods were evaluated and then the relationships between the quantities obtained by the two methods were proposed based on linear regression analysis. In addition, monthly and yearly variations of the significant wave height and period, and the peak wave direction were analyzed. Moreover, the relationship between the significant wave height and period was newly suggested. Variability and probability distribution of the significant wave period with respect to the significant wave height were also examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2000

On the 25th of November in 1997 winter season, unprecedented high waves were recorded at the southern part of Korea Peninsular. The significant wave heights over 4 m were recorded at Marado, Pusan and Ulrungdo successively with time lags. Seoguipo breakwaters which were under construction were damaged by the unexpected high waves. These unprecedented southerly high waves in winter seem to be caused by unusual development and traveling of low pressure. Weather charts and wave fields calculated by a numerical model were analyzed to examine the unusual development of these waves. Protection against the southerly high waves in winter must be considered in coastal constructions and structures.