Abstract
We approximately obtain heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer Boussinesq equations (Vu et al., 2018) and the two-layer Boussinesq equations (Huynh et al., 2017). For cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the heights of waves passing through a high-crested breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the heights of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the cnoidal wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.
1개층 Boussinesq 방정식(Vu 등, 2018)과 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식(Huynh 등, 2017)을 사용하여 투수방파제를 지나는 cnoid 파의 월파고를 구하였다. 수치실험을 통해 천단고가 낮은 투수방파제를 지나는 cnoid 파의 월파고(Navier-Stokes 방정식으로 구함)가 천단고가 높은 투수방파제를 지나는 통과파고(1개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구함)보다 더 작고, 천단고가 해저에 있는 투수방파제를 지나는 통과파고(2개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구함)보다 더 크다는 것을 확인하였다. cnoid 파의 파고가 낮을수록 또는 투수방파제의 폭이 좁을수록 1개층 및 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구한 통과파고가 Navier-Stokes 방정식으로 구한 월파고에 근접한 것을 확인하였다.