DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Numerical Simulation of Overtopping of Cnoidal Waves on a Porous Breakwater Using the Boussinesq Equations: Comparison with Solutions of the Navier-Stokes Equations

Boussinesq 식을 사용하여 Cnoid 파의 투수방파제 월파 해석: Navier-Stokes 식 결과와 비교

  • Huynh, Thanh Thu (Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Sejong University) ;
  • Lee, Changhoon (Department of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Sejong University) ;
  • Ahn, Suk Jin (Research Institute, GeoSystem Research Corporation)
  • 휜탄트 (세종대학교 건설환경공학과) ;
  • 이창훈 (세종대학교 건설환경공학과) ;
  • 안석진 ((주)지오시스템리서치 부설연구소)
  • Received : 2019.03.03
  • Accepted : 2019.03.29
  • Published : 2019.04.30

Abstract

We approximately obtain heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer Boussinesq equations (Vu et al., 2018) and the two-layer Boussinesq equations (Huynh et al., 2017). For cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the heights of waves passing through a high-crested breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the heights of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the cnoidal wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.

1개층 Boussinesq 방정식(Vu 등, 2018)과 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식(Huynh 등, 2017)을 사용하여 투수방파제를 지나는 cnoid 파의 월파고를 구하였다. 수치실험을 통해 천단고가 낮은 투수방파제를 지나는 cnoid 파의 월파고(Navier-Stokes 방정식으로 구함)가 천단고가 높은 투수방파제를 지나는 통과파고(1개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구함)보다 더 작고, 천단고가 해저에 있는 투수방파제를 지나는 통과파고(2개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구함)보다 더 크다는 것을 확인하였다. cnoid 파의 파고가 낮을수록 또는 투수방파제의 폭이 좁을수록 1개층 및 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구한 통과파고가 Navier-Stokes 방정식으로 구한 월파고에 근접한 것을 확인하였다.

Keywords

References

  1. CDIT (2001). Research and development of a numerical wave flume; CADMAS-SURF Report of the research group for development of numerical wave flume for the design of maritime structures. Coastal Development Institute of Technology, Japan.
  2. Cruz, E.C., Isobe, M. and Watanabe, A. (1997). Boussinesq equations for wave transformation on porous beds. Coastal Engineering, 30, 125-156. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(96)00039-7
  3. Engelund, F.A. (1953). On the laminar and turbulent flows of ground water through homogeneous sand. Danish Academy of Technical Sciences.
  4. Ergun, S. (1952). Fluid flow through packed columns. Chemical Engineering Progress, 48, 89-94.
  5. Gingold, R.A. and Monaghan, J.J. (1977). Smoothed particle hydrodynamics: Theory and application to nonspherical stars. Mon. Not. R. Astron. Soc., 181, 375-389. https://doi.org/10.1093/mnras/181.3.375
  6. Huynh, T.T., Lee, C. and Ahn, S.J. (2017). Numerical simulation of wave overtopping on a porous breakwater using Boussinesq equations. Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers, 29(6), 326-334. https://doi.org/10.9765/KSCOE.2017.29.6.326
  7. Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B. and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model documentation and user's manual. Research report No. CACR-98-06.
  8. Lara, J.L., del Jesus, M. and Losada, I.J. (2012). Three-imensional interaction of waves and porous coastal structures. Part II: Experimental validation. Coastal Engineering, 64, 26-46. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.01.009
  9. Lin, P. and Liu, P.L.-F. (1998). A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 359, 239-264. https://doi.org/10.1017/S002211209700846X
  10. Madsen, P.A. and Sorensen, O.R. (1992). A new form of the Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristics. Part 2: A slowly varying bathymetry. Coastal Engineering, 18, 183-204. https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(92)90019-Q
  11. Vidal, C., Losada, M.A., Medina, R. and Rubio, J. (1988). Solitary wave transmission through porous breakwaters. Proc. 21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 1073-1083.
  12. Vu, V.N., Lee, C. and Jung, T.-H. (2018). Extended Boussinesq equations for waves in porous media. Coastal Engineering, 139, 85-97. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2018.04.023