• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.72-87
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• 2011

The 21st century are seeing a large number of performing arts, and one of them, opera is evolving, transforming itself as one of total arts. Besides, the costume in performing art which play a major role in opera's visual impact, characterize figures, set the tone for performance and greatly contribute to the perfection of the stage. Under these circumstances, the study developed designs of stage costumes and built a full-scale production of the Magic Flute, one of three greatest Mozart operas. The opera based on a fiction, is still popular today since it is a fantastic fairy tale introducing moral and ethical lessons. The play's background itself is Egypt. But due to its fairy-take-like storyline, it has been performed focusing on various concepts rather than on costumes prepared through background research. As such, this study conducted research on designs of stage costumes that contains the element of Egypt and also take athleticism and comfort into consideration. The results derived from the study were as follows. First, traditional dresses of ancient Egypt were used as a basis while adding some modem touch in terms of forms or colors, which resulted in a new design. Second, a variety of images were captured using textures and colors that fit the characteristics of attributes of the figures. Third painting techniques were used to help highlight the symbolic image of Egypt-simple, not heavy and extravagant-with fairy-tale-like fantasy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.1
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• pp.42-55
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• 2013

As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.581-595
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• 2006

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes are drawn from this study. Two types of costumes were designed for Faust. An old black shirt, grey checkered trousers, and a white gown were designed to express the old Faust, a respected scholar in his 50s, who was erudite and competent. Red checker of the shirt represented passion and blue checker of the shirt symbolized youth. The cotton trousers were beige, the most favorite color among male college students. For Mephistopheles, a white suit, black shirt, and white neck tie were designed to express the Devil, who changed his face instantly. A white suit symbolized that Mephistopheles looked like an angel, while a black shirt suggested that Mephistopheles, in reality, was the Devil. A white one-piece dress and light jade green cardigan were designed for Margarete, who was innocent and virtuous. The white dress represented innocence and purity of Margarete and the light jade green cardigan symbolized a maiden pure.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.138-146
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• 2008

Opera costumes are a tangible medium to directly affect how opera singers performed. Therefore, stage costumes have been designed in various ways to reflect intentions of directors. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust" which was played in Sung-Nam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the supporting actors are drawn from this study. Martha wore a grey jacket and a long skirt with slash. Grey suit symbolized chastity but tight long skirt with slash means sexy. Valentin wore military and combat uniforms to express that he was a soldier. The military uniform represented the situation before the war and the combat uniform symbolized the situation after the war. Rather short trousers, a white tweed jacket, purple flower ornament, a light green vest, and a beret were used to express Wagner, who looked ridiculous and always tried to flirt. Overalls, a blue jumper, and a scarlet baseball cap were used to make Siebel look naive and homely. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.17-28
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• 2002

With the most popular and beloved Verdi's "La Traviata" as the subject in the year 2001, which is the 100th anniversary of his death, the present study discusses the arias by the main character "Violetta" and the characteristics, images, clothes and their symbolism expressed through and stage costumes of major performances shown in Korea and abroad. Furthermore, the purposes of the present study are to propose a new fashion brand image called "Violetta look" by incorporating this image into current fashion to join fashion and stage, and to actually design and producing these clothes. Therefore, stage costumes of characters shown in the limited space called stage were connected with the study of characters' images and applied into the current fashion as a brand image, and from the industrial aspect, a high value added fashion brand image was created.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to research and design stage costumes of Whangjinie focusing on inner image of Whangjinie, present stage costumes of new image. Four steps were taken in order to achieve this purpose. The first step was to investigate the old documents and prior research about literature world of Whangjinie. The second step was to analyze stage costumes of Whangjinie which were worn in opera, movie. The third step was to design and make the stage costumes according to new images Whangjinie which were extracted from above two research results. The new images of Whangjinie are as follows 1. Whangjinie as a kisaeng(professional entertainer) She thirsted for new, materialistic love though she failed in love everytime. 2. Whangjinie as a woman. She had a hard time by feeling an irresistible yearning for lover 3. Whangjinie as a poet. She expressed as a poetry her vanity and loneliness of life. Using above three images, this study designed four new stage costumes of Whangjinie and two designs of them were made really. But this study didn't present historic costume of her age but expressed modern mood in color and form.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.44
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• pp.239-281
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• 2016

This article explores the fate of futurism not only by tracing the entire process from the birth and decline of Russian futurism in the early 20th century and the so-called "Korean futurism" in the early 21st century, but also by delving into how their characteristics were shaped. In the first chapter, we investigate four groups of Russian futurism - Ego-Futurism, Cubo-Futurism, Tsentrifuga, and the Mezzanine of poetry, which were born in the age of utopianism before the Revolution. In the opera Victory Over the Sun, which was the culmination of the Zaum project of Cubo-futurists, we can find the initial shortcomings at the levels of language (Kruchenykh), music (Matyushin) and decoration and costume design (Malevich). In the second chapter, we examine chronologically how the term 'futurism' appeared in Korean literature history. In Korea, the term 'futurism' was born following the naming and classification of critic Kwon Heok-Woong, not by the voluntary manifestation of experimental poets such as Hwang Byong-Seung, thus this specific situation provoked stormy polemics between critics for futurism and critics against futurism in the Korean literary world. These polemics on futurist poetics have led to considerations of the relation of criticism to poetry.