• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.48-62
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• 2015

Practice is essential in art and design. Through practice, artists gain tacit knowledge that is hard to acquire from conventional academic studies. This paper characterizes practice-led research in the study of fashion and textile design through the investigation of practice-led research theses in the UK. According to relevant literature, which includes four exemplary case studies, the following features can be drawn: First, the methodology is different in each case and the use of practice is unconventional. Second, the research is not always aimed at making products. Third, the structure follows an iterative process. Fourth, the ratios of theory and practice are different and various theories are used. Fifth, a personal journal or diary is used for reflection as a major aid to research. Lastly, the process should be recorded by a thorough academic method. Practice-led research can have unexpected outcomes in theory and practice. It can be a good option for fashion practice research to develop a better evaluation method and reduce the gap between subjectivity and objectivity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.335-348
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• 2020

This study examines the cultural differences in Korea and the United Kingdom, and how they affect consumer complaint behavior(CCB). Technological advances allow consumers to easily access information anywhere in the world using the internet thus they demand even higher expectations from the sellers. Consumers from different cultural backgrounds, especially the millennial generation, have different ways of expressing a dissatisfying shopping experience. For this comparative study, in-depth interviews were conducted based on the methodology set by grounded theory. The results of the axial coding produced by recombining the data from open coding were visualized as a paradigm model. The main phenomenon of attitude towards complaining was formed following the causal conditions of dissatisfaction that occurred after purchasing fashion products online. The contextual condition, which is the cultural factors, affects the formation of the attitude towards complaining; and the intervening conditions, which are personal value and amplifications of dissatisfaction, had a moderating effect between the causal condition and the main phenomenon. Complaining costs, the likelihood of successful complaint, attribution, and the importance of the product were the determinants of the complaining behavior after the attitude towards complaining was formed. As a result, there were three classifications of consumer complaining behavior: no action, private action, and public action. This research will serve as a guide for online companies that wish to enter the UK fashion industry with a competitive edge.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.272-281
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• 2016

From the year 2000 on, Seoul has aimed to be a fashion city, and thus has been supporting young designers through Seoul Fashion Creative Studio, Generation Next, Le Dome, Concept Korea, etc. London is famous for nurturing young designers through the joint help of government, schools and industries: Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane and Peter Pilotto are successful cases. Therefore, this research aims to suggest a direction for policies aimed at helping young designers in the international market, on the basis of London's nurturing programs and ideas from a literature review and case studies. The results are below. Firstly, a step-by-step supporting program is recommended. Secondly, long-lasting, sustainable programs are considered essential to support designers after the end of their contracts. Thirdly, practical assistance is preferred to monetary funding in order to lighten the designers' lot and in the interests of transparency. The mentoring service should be strengthened for the designers to eventually become independent. The support should be tailor-made according to items. Fourthly, the supporting programs should be promoted. Fifthly, government and industries should collaborate. Sixthly, 'de minimis' against overlapped support should be legislated. For these, the change of supporting method can be helpful; an independent administrative organisation plans and collects funds from governments and companies. Through these programs and any subsequent studies, Seoul could become a fashion city where young designers play active roles at a global level.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.