• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.5
• /
• pp.421-428
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
• /
• 2022.05a
• /
• pp.231-231
• /
• 2022

하구에서의 흐름은 하천의 담수와 바다에서부터 유입되는 염수, 조석, 파랑 등으로 인해 복잡한 흐름구조와 혼합 양상을 보인다. 특히 만 내에 하천이 있을 경우 만의 해류특성은 하구에서의 혼합과 이송에 지배적인 영향을 미치며, 하천에서부터 방류되는 입자들은 만의 해류특성 따라 만에서의 체류시간과 이송이 결정된다. 잔차류 특성에 의한 순 물질 플럭스의 방향과 조석비대칭에 따른 하구에서의 퇴적 형태들이 결정되며, 이로 인해 하구에서의 퇴적물 퇴적 및 물질의 집적 위치, 하구 인근과 만에서의 환경변화에 영향을 줄 수 있다. 따라서 만 내에서의 혼합과 입자의 이송확산, 하천 담수의 영향역 등과 같은 만과 하천의 흐름 특성을 이해하는 것은 연안 및 하구의 환경 및 관리에 중요하다. 본 연구에서는 영일만과 형산강을 대상으로 계절변화에 따른 영일만 내 흐름과 형산강 하구에서의 퇴적양상에 대해 수치모의를 통해 수행하였다. 수치모델로는 천수방정식으로 준 3차원 유동해석을 하는 Delft-3D Flow와 파랑모형인 SWAN 모델을 결합하여 형산강하구와 영일만의 유동을 해석하였다. 상류개방경계는 형산강하구 9 km, 하류개방경계는 영일만 외해 50 km로 설정하였고, 경계조건은 대상지역의 관측소 자료와 전지구 모형자료를 결합하여 구성하였다. 또한, 라그랑쥬 입자추적모델을 통해 형산강 상류에서 유입한 입자들의 영일만 내 체류시간과 집적 위치를 평가하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.599-607
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to reproduce long-term wave fields in coastal waters of Korea based on wave hind-casting modelling and discuss its applications. To validate wind data(NCEP, ECMWF, JMA-MSM), comparison of wind data was done with wave buoy data. JMA-MSM predicted wind data with high accuracy. But due to relatively longer period of ECMWF wind data as compared to that of JMA-MSM, wind data set of ECMWF(2001~2014) was used to perform wave hind-casting modelling. Results from numerical modelling were verified with the observed data of wave buoys installed by Korea Meteorological Administration(KMA) and Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency(KHOA) on offshore waters. The results agree well with observations at buoy stations, especially during the event periods such as a typhoon. Consequently, the wave data reproduced by wave hind-casting modelling was used to obtain missing data in wave observation buoys. The obtained missing data indicated underestimation of maximum wave height during the event period at some points of buoys. Reasons for such underestimation may be due to larger time interval and resolution of the input wind data, water depth and grid size etc. The methodology used in present study can be used to analyze coastal erosion data in conjunction with a wave characteristic of the event period in coastal areas. Additionally, the method can be used in the coastal disaster vulnerability assessment to generate wave points of interest.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.29 no.3 s.99
• /
• pp.257-262
• /
• 2005

Environmental problems and safety problems in coastal area is one of the most important factors for designing coastal structures and maintaining facilities in coastal zone. And thus study on Wave transformation around coastal area is very important to develope a new port or on industrial area. Delft 3D-WAVE is applied to Ulsan new port area and the culculated results are analysed and compared with measured data Delft 3D-wave module is based on SWAN model which considers wave shoaling and refraction for irregular wave. This module also covers wind effect, bottom friction. white-capping and wave breaking effect. The results of this study show a good agreement with measured data and thus Delft 3D-WAVE module can be applied to simulate irregular wave transformation in coastal area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.307-317
• /
• 1993

The problem of sea wave transformation in the coastal zone taking into account effects of nonlinearity and disperison has been studied. Mathematical model for description of regular wave transformation is based on the method of nonlinear ray theory. The equations for rays and wave field have been produced. Nonlinear wave field is described by the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation. Some analytical solutions of this equation are obtained. Caustic transformation and dissipation effects are included in the mathematical model. Numerical algorithm of solution of the Korteweg-de Vries equation and its stability criterion are described. Results of nonlinear transformation of sea waves in the coastal zone are demonstrated.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.97-104
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, take into account the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, wave-wave interaction, and wave-current interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process, we applied the spectral wave model to the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on. We also compared the simulation results with the calculatea from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and safer use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 2000.09a
• /
• pp.166-170
• /
• 2000

연안역에서의 파랑운동 모형개발에 있어 봉착하는 가장 중요한 문제는 쇄파대에서의 파고변형의 예측이라 할 수 있다. 쇄파대에서의 파고변형 예측 모형의 재발은 파동에너지 손실의 평가를 이용한 Le Mehaute(1962)의 해석적 방법 이후로 예측모델을 개발하기 위한 많은 연구가 수행되어져 왔다. (중략)

• Water for future
• /
• v.20 no.2
• /
• pp.127-138
• /
• 1987

For determination of the design wave, a method of estimating the design wind speed at sea from the wind records at the nearby weather stations on land is proposed. Along the West Coast, the design wind speed are shown to have two main directions; namely, N through W, and WSW through S. Through the analysis of weather maps, fetches for the main wind directions along the West Coast are determined. The wind speeds at sea are found to have 0.8~0.9 times the wind speed at the stations on land for U$\geq$20m/s. The West Coast may be divided into three regions for which fetches are determind uniquely. Design waves with return period of 100 years are determined by the revised S.M..B. method along the West Coast, and show the deep water significant wave heights of 4.4~8.3 meters with wave periods of 8.9~12.0 seconds.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
• /
• 1993.07a
• /
• pp.42-44
• /
• 1993

최근, 불규칙파를 조파시킴으로서 발생하는 실험실 스케일의 해빈변형에 대해서 그 정선변화 뿐만아니라 수심변화까지 포함한 수치 simulation모델이 개발되었다. 그러나 현지파랑은 파고, 주기가 불규칙하고, 또한 입사파향도 일정하지 않기때문에, 앞서 논한 예측법에 의해 현지연안에서 발생하는 지형변동을 예측하기 위해서는, 현지파랑중 어떠한 방법으로 대표파고를 선정할 것인가가 큰 문제가 된다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2007.12a
• /
• pp.127-128
• /
• 2007

파랑이 외해로부터 연안으로 내습하면서 발생되는 파랑 변형, 즉, 굴절, 회절, 천수 그리고 쇄파 동에 의한 변형을 일으킨다. 이러한 파랑변형을 일으키는 주된 물리적 인자는 수심의 변화이지만 태풍과 같은 강한 바람이 부는 해역에서는 바람인자를 반드시 고려해야만 한다. 본 연구에서는 바람효과가 고려된, 에너지 스펙트럼 모형 (SWAN; Simulating WAve Nearshore) 을 이용한 수치실험을 수행하였다. 그리고 해석해 및 Karlsson 모형에 대한 수치 해와 비교를 통해 모델의 검증을 실시하였다. 또한 부산항 설 해역을 대상으로 태풍 매미 내습 시 입사 파랑 조건을 적용하였으며 실제 관측 치와 바람효과의 유무에 따른 수치 계산치를 비교한 결과, 바람효과를 고려한 계산결과가 실제 관측치와의 양호한 일치를 나타내었다.