• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.17-30
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• 2006

The objectives of this study are to research into the traditional costume succession in south and north korea, and to compare similarity and difference of kinds, names, drawing of Jegory. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. In sort of Jegory, south and north korea have same kind of Jegory according to traditional form. But in making method, south korea have pursued various style from traditional type to modern type, north korea have maintained just simple and practical basic style. 2. South and north korea have used same or similar names for the basic part of Jegory. But north korea has made new names for constructional needs, so many differences were shown in the name of details. 3. In drawing of Jegory, north korea has hold traditional method and then tried to seek for rational, scientific technique. Also, due to the influence of south korea that advanced in modern aesthetic, drawing of Jegory in north korea were changed to similar.

• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 춘계학술대회
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• pp.33-33
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• 2003

우리 민족의 고유 의복인 한복은 민족의 의생활 정서를 그대로 담아낸 우리의 전통 복식으로서 오랜 역사성을 가지고 있으나, 현대에 이르러서는 일상복이라기보다 예복 및 행사용 의복으로 입혀지고 있다. 이처럼 한복이 우리 일상생활에서 착용 빈도가 줄기는 하였으나 과거 경험과 눈대중에 의했던 한복제작에도 보다 체계적이고 과학적인 방법제시가 필요하게 되었다. 따라서 이러한 상황을 반영하듯, 실제로 한복구성을 위해 출간된 교재들은 최근까지 수십 종에 이르고 있으며, 이론과 실습을 겸한 패턴 제시와 함께 자세한 바느질 방법까지 설명되어 있어, 우리 옷의 구성에 문외한이던 학생들에게도 좋은 안내서가 되고 있는 것은 사실이다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.13-23
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• 1987

The present study is undertaken to utilize the computer in pattern making of Jeugo-ris for women. The results are as follow: 1. Basic points which can be connected to depict basic pattern are represented with the numerical expreession and the curved lines consist of three types of arc. 2. The patterns of Jeugo-ris were automatically depicted by inputting the standard size(large, medium and small) and body measurements for bodice(bust girth, center back length, sleeve length). 3. This program includes the function of expressing the specific parts of patterns and of extending the patterns with or without standard lines.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.178-197
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• 2008

Due to the inflow of the western culture since the 19th century, female skirts and jackets have been changed considerably in detail though their basic composition was maintained. The analysis on female jackets from the start of the modern period to 1960s has been undertaken with artefacts as well as reports and research dissertations related to them. For period appraisal, analysis was divided into several periods which are from 1890s to 1910s, and every 10 years afterwards. As a result, aspects for the appraisal in each period was found. Aspects for period appraisal in modern jackets can be a change in total length and side length, a change in shape of the sleeves (from straight to round), a change in width, and a difference in closed shape of the collars. Material and color can be another aspect which shows fashionable material or new materials (man-made textile or nylon) of each period, color combination of surface and lining material as well as other parts of the jacket, use of a stiffener made with net or sheer textiles. Research using books and archives is important for the appraisal of the garment artifact. However, most of all, one should have the attitude of examining the artifacts frequently in order to achieve deeper understanding and an eye for accurate appraisal.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.218-230
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• 2012

The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1378-1385
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• 2001

Textile The purpose of this research is to develop the design for activation of women s hanbok focused on functionality and convenience as well as on keeping the traditional beauty, and then to produce them. As a result of these explorations, I have reached conclusions as follows. first, the transformation of jackets and skirts are mainly limited to partial change in elements of the dress design-width and length of a jacket string and the upper strip on the outside of a jacket, change in width, and granting of symbolic meaning. Second, aesthetic features and formative beauty of traditional hanbok that the harmonization of mainstream colors and highlighting colors and curved silhouettes evoke were mental by products created as our people wished to become friendly to and to harmonize with nature. Third, grounded upon study of lines form and survey on brands, I have developed designs that maintain hanbok’superiority and at the same time incorporate functionality and convenience to fit modern life. I believe that the outcome of these of these explorations will contribute greatly to carrying the traditional beauty of Korean dresses to the maximun, and to developing and popularizing functional and practical living-fitted Korean dresses.

• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.88-102
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• 2010

The research examines the characteristics of the sewing methods used for women's Jeogori in modern Korea. The results are following. In the 1920s sewing of shoulder parts was started, and in the 1930s sewing by hand had reduced by dissemination of sewing-machine, and in the 1940s the Som-jeogori declined by the matter of economic and sanitary issues. In the 1950s four-fold sewing emerged, and during the 1960s the gause-lined triple-layered Jeogori was in fashion, and in the 1970s the Ggaeggi-jeogori and much elaborated Jeogori became in vogue. The characteristics of the sewing methods are changed by following factors. First, the dissemination of sewing-machine in the 1930's enabled fast and precise sewing of Jeogori which reduced the rate of clothes mending and the production period. Second, by development of washing method, the dry cleaning became common, resulting cleaner washing and better preservation. Third, introduction of western clothes gave rise to modernized Han-bok which was changed into practical and simple one. Fourth, by the introduction of synthetic textile and industry development, Jeogori with no armhole line or right Seop line was made using wide selection of textiles. Fifth, in 1945~60s, women learned' good wife and wise mother' education and the use of sewing machine in school. The clothing lifestyle affected the sewing method's change, for example, clothes sewed strongly by sewing machine not to take clothes apart, and attaching button instead of Go-reum to save clothes.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.5-19
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• 1998

This study aims to analyze the shortening tendency of women's hanbok chogori (upper part of the Korean traditional dress) in the latter period of Chosun in three respects-socially, economically, and aesthetically. First, from the social point of riew, sexual role and social starus were examined. The strict sexual roles between males and females made the latter inferior to the former. The relatively lower sexual role had the woman look receptive and passive and wear a short and narrow kind of chogori. Also, the confusion of the social status system weakened the function of the costumes to differentiate social classes and, consequently, almost all classes wore short chogori. Second, the economic progress in the wake of the commerce-centered positivism at that time helped raise the economic status of the middle and low classes. As a result, with their social and economic status elevated, they tried to wear somewhat luxurious chogori. Third, aesthetically speaking, erotically-look-ing and much-shortened chogori derived from the weakened male-centered Confucian tra-ditional ethics in conflict with the humani-tarian positivism.