• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.111-124
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze how the women´s fashion with the design elements(silhouette, material, color, detail and trimming) of androgynous image which has appeared on our specialized fashion magazine from 1986 through 2000. As a result of this study I drew the following conclusion. 1. The bon silhouette led the market in the first stage of mid 1980. The wool and leather with the masculine image, cotton and soft material with unisex image were used to express the androgynous image. The dark and mono tone with the masculine image were used a lot in color. In women´s fashion the minimalism style with simple image was expressed escaping from the decoration, in which the detail and trimming was not found as in men´s wear. 2. It showed that more and more feminine image was accepted in the second stage of early 1990. Women´s wear silhouette with the androgynous image has changed from masculine box silhouette boomed in the first stage to hourglass silhouette and slim silhouette. The wool and leather were used a lot as the materials in the first stage but the usage of the cotton with unisex image and soft texture were getting increased. The main colors were the black and the blue but the usage of the white and the red were on the increase showing the range of the use was extending. In the meantime, the detail and trimming were hardly used like in the first stage. 3. In the third stage of the late 1990, the silhouette has changed to slim style. The wool and leather were mainly used as the materials but the cotton and silk were on the increase showing that the materials of the feminine image were used in the women´s fashion with the androgynous image as well as the materials of masculine image. In color, the black and the white of the masculine image were used increasingly by the effect of the minimalism and the usage of the colors were various for the rising frequency of the trend colors usage.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.327-340
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• 2015

Male skirt is found in traditional costumes all over the world. Due to the development of tailoring skills in the early Middle ages, men started wearing breeches and pantaloons gradually distinguishing the different characteristics of menswear and womenswear. Since then, skirt became the strong representation of the female gender, symbolizing the feminism. However, under the influences of technological development and diversification in 2000s, gender identity has been diversely expressed in modern fashion allowing male gender to embrace different sexual identities. The purpose of the study is to analyze the nature of male skirts, which have been popularized in modern men's fashion through both the expressional elements and compositional elements. This study associates design elements of male skirt, gradually appearing in the contemporary men's fashion with the sexual symbolism and reinterpreted it's significance in the flow of the modern fashion. Reinterpretation of the gender image in costumes are considered to contribute to the cultural context and extension in diversity. These research results forms a basic foundation to expand in studies of men's fashion design and gender image of costumes through cultural contexts and it's changes. It is considered that this can lay groundwork to make various attempts at passing over the archetype of the gender image besides the continuous appearance of male skirt in the field of fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.380-390
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• 2007

The purpose of this study(Part I) was to provide the guidance in more objective and proper clothing design and wearing rule to make good image making by analysis of fashion sensibilities about adult women's town wear in unlimited circumstance. The specific objectives were; 1)to investigate about fashion sensibility of women's town wear at season 2)to investigate about fashion sensibilities of women's town wear of properties which are age, marriage or not, job, average income per month, and schooling. 3)to compare fashion sensibility between Good and Bad women's town wear. The collected photos at shopping mall, department stores, and churches(S/S, F/W:2004.4.28~2005.5.1) were prepared removing face and background that can affect in estimator and attached on gray board. To investigate fashion sensibilities, the stimulus were 80 photos('good':40, 'Bad':40). The questionnaire consisted of bi-polar 25 pairs adjective scale of fashion sensibilities was distributed 60 female(20's~40's) living in Busan. The data were analyzed by t-test, ANOVA, and Scheffe. The results of this study are summarized as follows; For fashion sensibilities at 'Good' and 'Bad' wear, the variances(season, age, marriage or not, job, average income per month, and schooling) are important. Especially, the fashion sensibility at 30's women are very unique and importance age zone to catch both young women's fashion sensibility and old women's fashion sensibility, Through that age zone, we could read women's various fashion sensibility and prospect complicate consumers' fashion mind. This study result will be utilized in the clothing design for target age zone of women's town wear, database of wearing rule and good image making, and planning fashion marketing strategies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.401-408
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• 2007

The study aims to examine consumer awareness of green fashion products and demographic characteristics by subdividing environmentally conscious consumers of such products in the current domestic fashion market. It then compares the result with the characteristics of environmentally conscious consumers studied by 1999 in order to understand the trend of the consumer group in the fashion market and to promote the use of green fashion products. Marketing strategies for green fashion products suggested by the study are as follows: First, fashion firms are required to develop and publicize shops selling recycled or second-hand clothing that environmentally conscious consumers show constant interest. For instance, clothing patterns may be developed to enable consumers to make their kids' clothing easily at home, and various garments made from recycled materials may stimulate environmentally conscious consumers' desire to buy. Particularly, advanced technologies should be developed and publicized to manufacture garments that can excel existing ones made of normal materials in their features in order to satisfy consumers' interest in clothing made from recycled PET bottles. In addition, various natural dyes should be developed to decrease water pollution. Second, it seems imperative to develop clothing made of recycled knitted apparel that attracts consumers' interest more than ever, fashionable multi-purpose clothing, and environmentally friendly materials. As the use of natural fur or leather can cause the endangerment of wild animals and the destruction of the ecosystem, synthetic fur or leather may be used to develop sophisticated products with the same texture as real ones to attract environmentally conscious consumers' interest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.77-85
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• 2009

Nowadays the numbers of the aging population are rapidly increasing in Korea, which became the 'aged country' from the year 2000. These aged people are getting more important consumer group and the products and services related to the silver industry are getting bigger. Universal fashion design is based on the concept of universal design that pursues the 'design for all'. This study aims to understand the physical, physiological, and psychological characteristics of the elderly women and apply the principles of universal design to universal fashion design for the elderly. Korean traditional vest, 'Baeja' was used as the design inference for the target of age 55 and older. This group is also called as 2Y2R(too young to retire), Tonk(too only no kids), Y-O(young-old) generation, or OPAL(old people with active life). Principles of universal design such as accessibility, flexibility in use, fair in use, aesthetics, safely-oriented were applied in developing the vest. This universal fashion products enable the elderly to have physical independence and make them have the self respect and better life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.18-29
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• 2007

Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.371-385
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• 2013

This study considers types of expression and examines aesthetic characteristics through analyzing designs (such as the Coca-Cola contour bottle as fashion) which has actively progressed in the collaboration of fashion designers and fashion brands. The conclusions of this study are as follows. The types of fashion expression on the Coca-Cola contour bottle are a presentation of diverse fashion images through a digital print expression that allow people-friendly images to be three-dimensional (or by adding a formative element) and the use of accessories or clothes. The symbolism characteristic were first indicated for the aesthetic characteristics on the Coca-Cola contour bottle. Symbolism is indicated through the identification of an implicit meaning towards a specific object. The symbolism of fashion was highlighted by designing the Coca-Cola's contour bottle with a typical material and pattern pursued by fashion designers and fashion brands. Second, the characteristic of playfulness was presented to expresses the instinctive desire in human nature for pleasure. The expression of visual playfulness is emphasized through the combination of item and image or by changing and re-analyzing a form through refuting stereotypes. Third, the characteristic of femininity was shown to express beauty in external image or a woman's delicate and soft inner propensity. Femininity was created by presenting a sensual femininity that recognized the voluminous curve silhouette of the Coca-Cola bottle such as a sexy female body or through the combination of a women's inner beauty with the sensory image of the object.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2 s.55
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• pp.318-328
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• 2005

Our interest in human body is more and more increasing. Not only academic and art communities but also other social communities show a keen interest in the human body. Especially, the breast of women's body parts may be comparable to men's penis because it is protruded. The breast which sexually distinguishes women from men becomes an important topic in the fashion design community. Therefore, such designs which emphasize the breast are being introduced in a natural way. This paper aims at examining the reason and symbolism for the exposure of breast and analyzing the fashion design that breast is exposed. This study will help us grasp the meaning which the design has. The exposure's scope of breast in the design includes the partial exposure, total exposure and the concealment of breast. But these all have their effects in each scope. For this paper, some general things were investigated. They are as follows: the phases of breast exposure in the fashion design, the exposure of breast expressed in the works of fine art, and the alteration of breast-exposing phenomenon shown in apparels. Then, each type of breast-exposing design shown in the women's fashion was analyzed from the middle of 1980s' when the phenomenon of breast exposure occurred to the year 2004. These could be divided into 4 types. They include a suggestive type, an exaggerative type, an open type and a reproductive type. As the result of analysis of 4 types, such meanings of design as an emphasis of femininity, an expression of liberty, a symbol of maternity and a commercialization of sex could be analogized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.337-352
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• 2015

This study suggests designs of maternity clothes wearable after childbirth and aims at confirming that maternity wear is continuously wearable during a post-natal period. As for research methods, theoretical and empirical studies with research on a production of work were conducted, focusing on the design development of the maternity dress which may be worn even after childbirth. The results of theoretical and empirical studies possibly presented various designs which require fashionability going with the trend of time. The maternity wear also requires the adaptability for a changing body shape to enable a woman to wear it during a pregnancy period and after childbirth. Besides, the convenience of dressing and undressing with wearing comfort is considered. 6 sets of one-piece dress were made as the result of the study and three factors of fashionability, adaptability and convenience were considered. The conclusions are as follows : Firstly, it verified that the maternity wear is fashionable clothes not to cover protruded abdomen but to satisfy women's desire of self expression. Secondly, it overcame the limit of dress design through fitting it to completely different two body sizes and shapes with design factors and patterns. Lastly, it suggested a research model of maternity wear corresponding to economical, environmental and ethical principles as giving an effect of "two" dresses with one. This study presented a new direction of design study with meaningful actions of fashion designing in the aspects of economical, environmental and ethical consumption unlike artificial disposal on SPA brands.