• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.455-463
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• 2020

본 연구자는 선행 연구를 통해 태초부터 전개된 인류의 예술에 내포된 죽음의 미학의 전개 과정을 정리한 바 있다. 본 연구는 해당 연구를 심화시킨 후속 연구로, 알렉산더 맥퀸의 패션 작품에 담긴 죽음의 미학적 의미를 연구하였는데, 먼저 죽음의 미학적 특성을 분류하고, 이를 근거로 알렉산더 맥퀸의 의상 작품에서의 죽음의 미학적 특성을 분석 정리하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 죽음의 미학적 표현은 죽음의 재현성, 상징성, 및 종교성의 세 가지로 나뉜다. 재현성 표현은 실질적 대상 재현과 상상의 대상 재현을 포함하며. 상징적 표현은 외면적 표현과 내면적 표현 두 가지를 포함한다. 둘째, 알렉산더 맥퀸의 작품에서 죽음의 재현성은 주로 가상의 무대 장면과 복장을 통해 구현하였다. 셋째, 죽음의 상징성은 육체적인 죽음과 직결된 해골, 혈액 등뿐만 아니라 죽음에 따른 다양한 정서와 심리상태도 보여준다. 넷째, 죽음의 종교성은 알렉산더 맥퀸의 작품에서 십자가 등의 모티브로 종교적 내용을 재현한 것으로 표현한 것을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제65권8호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2015

Much western philosophical thinking is constrained by ocularcentrism. Hence, multi-sensory experiences hold the most prominent position in contemporary art, and visual tactility, where feelings of touch through sight, become a powerful medium of expression in fashion. This study analyzes visual tactility in Alexander McQueen's design, where design elements are in focus. This investigation aims to bring the concept of visual tactility in fashion, and by doing so, enhance valuable aesthetic possibility. The result of the study is as follows: First, Creative silhouette is something that is constructed by his impeccable cutting and tailoring skills. In fabrics, he often suggests unconventional materials by uncompromising approach to fashion. Color contrasts refer to color sensibility, which reminds of grotesque image. McQueen's aggressive aesthetic awareness results in visual tactility in fashion.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.194-206
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• 2016

This study analyzed jackets by Alexander McQueen that have always pleased customers with traditional tailoring via every season's collection. This study categorized and then analyzed jackets by components such as silhouette, jacket length, collar, lapel, sleeve, shoulder line, and closure methods. To achieve the research goal, the study referred to photographs of 501 jackets introduced in signature brand collections by Alexander McQueen between 1996 and 2010. The analysis results on McQueen's jackets with the general components of the clothes indicated that the frequency of traditional tailoring components (such as lapels, tight sleeves, natural shoulder lines, and a button closing method) was higher than the frequency of designs of dramatic, deconstructive patterns examined by previously-conducted research. This shows that Alexander McQueen was cognizant to the responsibilities as a tailor and the basics of tailoring when developing jacket designs. This study also confirmed how McQueen enjoyed adding exaggerated jacket design components by making various use of details that emphasize drastic shapes like the hourglass silhouette, wing collar (that covers the shoulders), peaked lapel collar, kimono sleeve, bell sleeve, crescent shoulder, and pagoda shoulder.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.24-37
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• 2019

This study focused on the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen' to determine how butterflies are used in modern fashion through the sensibilities of certain designers. To this end, both a literature review and empirical research were conducted. First, we examined the origin of the word and appearance characteristics of butterflies based on prior research and a book, and also surveyed the tendencies used by the fashion designer brand Alexander McQueen. Second, out of 239 items announced by the fashion designer brand "Alexander McQueen" RTW (Ready to Wear) ranging from the S/S Collection in 2008 to the 2018-9 F/W collection, 73 pieces deemed to be fashion using butterfly images were collected through www.samsung.net and www.firstview.com, then analyzed based on timing and aesthetic characteristics. Results. The analysis by time period was divided into fantasy, handicraft, mix and match, and aesthetic characteristics shown in the order of compromise beauty, rhythmical beauty, and voluptuous beauty. The purpose of this study was to determine how butterflies are expressed in fashion based on the sensibility of a specific designer in modern fashion, the fashion designer brand 'Alexander McQueen'. Based on the results of this study, we hope that the information presented herein on fashion of natural images will serve as a basic material for similar research or design ideas as an example of designs based on butterfly images.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.153-166
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• 2021

In this study, the artistic background and formative nature of representative 19th century realist artists Gustave Courbet and Honoré Daumier were analyzed and applied in a fashion context. By displaying representational desires (necessary adhesions of man and society) in their work, they became characteristic matrixes of critical realism and to perceive critical realism. The purpose of the study was to apply the characteristics of critical realism to the contemporary fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Research was conducted to analyze the characteristics that appear in the field of fashion and to review methods of expression and internal aesthetics displayed through various aspects of fashion design. Characteristics of critical realism were analyzed by researching the formativeness and periodical background of the paintings of Courbet and Daumier. Based on these characteristics, analysis was conducted to identify critical realism in the fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Data and scope included fashion information sites, internet photo data, and video material. Critical realist characteristics were categorized into five types as follows: 'The proper borrowing of extremely realistic subjects signifies', 'satirical reconstruction and narrative composition', 'antipathetic distortions and abject representations', 'critical reproductions based on technology', and 'the maximization of ambivalent sexuality'. It was concluded that the characteristics of critical realism (recognized by the common formation of Courbet and Daumier) also appeared in Alexander McQueen's fashion collection but were inherited in a form that transcended pictorial expression due to the overall difference in use of visual arts.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.262-280
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• 복식
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• 제43권
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• pp.53-68
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• 1999

Water allows us to have artistic experiences of searching for the source of hints and techniques by bring about the emergence of the new representation new themes and new forms of arts. The water that holds a great deal of hidden meaning shape the image. This study attempted to investigate what mental relationship the concept of water had the mental phenomenon of water in hea-sang-kun-sun-do in terms of the event of contemporary fashion in the present-day age. This means the stream of thought to grope a new paradign of multi-cultruism that claims the coexistence of East and West civilizations in the contemporary civilization. The meaning of water is developed fabrics connected with the water and the water emerge the issue in contemporary fashion. And the concept of water as the meaning concept is used as the tool to represent a certain issue in silhouette and fabrics not only the introduction as substantial water into fashion giving the fashion designer's emotion to shape and representing the fashion designer's aesthetic needs by emphasizing with the designer.

• 복식
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.106-119
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• 2008

This study explores grotesque characteristics that were raised as the Aesthetics of the Ugly and how it was featured in Alexander McQueen's arts. In a methodological approach, the study attempted the analysis of historical literature that was published both nationally and internationally, along with justifiable investigation using fashion/collection magazines such as Vogue, Gap and Internet search. The scope of this study ranges from 1996's Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter collection pieces modern, to date The results of this study are summarized as follows: The first grotesque characteristic present throughout Alexander Mcqueen's arts is that it featured horrifying images or evil motives with pointy heads or horns, dark colored dresses, silver accessories, Dracula, witches, skulls, soldiers of evil, death and sickness. Second, aversion was realistically portrayed by frightening objects, extreme intimacy and motives that signify death and closely relative to cruelty to human bodies. It also became visible with physical destruction of the bodies and dissecting of internal organs, etc. Thirdly, its expression of humor is out of common sense with distorted human bodies by intentionally overemphasizing certain portion of the clothes or body parts. It also featured strangely deformed bodies by ignoring the typical shapes of clothes, vague definition of gender and using of unusual objects. Forth, half-man and half-beast images are portrayed using various types of bird species or animals to Identify disparity. It further defined this image in the form of non-human cyborg by incorporating technology.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.155-168
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• 2011

This study aims at analyzing the Mix & Match fashion trend expressed in the Ready to Wear collections shown in 27 collections of 3 designers(Alexander McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Comme des Gar$\c{c}$ons) over the past five years from 2007S/S to 2011S/S, and the results are as follows. 1) The characteristics were a combination of past and modern, the past and past prominent fashions combined at a different time, these styles and details were seen in Alexander McQueen's collection. 2) The properties of combination were expressed as a clash of cultures, such as East and West or African and European. 3) The characteristics of the combinations were expressed by differences in purpose, such as outer garments or underwear. 4) Artistic combinations of Mixing & Matching happen through a component confusion of art and garments. 5) The characteristics of Mixing & Matching fashion were expressed in images, especially in the case of Jean Paul Gaultier.