• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.56-63
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• 2005

This study aims to understand the ornamental space in Art-Nouveau style which was made up the ornamental aspect and spatial aspect. So that It is needed to classify the ornamental space into three categories according to the way of construction; pictorial composition, non-objective composition and organic construction. To find the meaning of these ornamental spaces, works of Art-Nouveau are analyzed into ornament and space, in result we know that process of integration, relativity of ornament as a part and forms of expression in ornamental space have some regulation; use of natural motive, repetition of image and organic combination. Whereas the ornamental space in Art-Nouveau style has comprehensive capacity between antagonistic relations just like tradition and new mechanism, the space could receive a lot of different ideas and express these ideas as ornaments. Although the ornamental space also had weak points which were the lack of transformation and the difficulties of the application of other design due to the perfection itself, we could create new space which meets the requirements of the times, if we develop and make up for the weak points in the ornamental space under the principles of dialectic.

• 복식
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• 제44권
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• pp.235-247
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• 1999

The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

• 복식
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• 제59권7호
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• pp.114-126
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the art characteristics of Japonism expressed in Art Nouveau jewelry. This study also provided an opportunity to seek for the development direction of contemporary jewelry design for the future. The influence of Japanese arts in Art Nouveau jewelry, was mostly from Ukiyo-e, an art form from the Edo Dynasty in Japan. Japanese arts soon inspired the origination of Art Nouveau across Europe in the late 19th century. And the scope of its infuluence is shown in jewelry which created by contemporary painters and designers. Ukiyo-e, a folk painting was created from multi-color wooden printmaking emerged many Japanese art collectors, including Samuel Bing and Arthur Lasenby Liberty. This became a source of new inspirations for Degas, Monet, Gogh and the origin of Japonism. The layout techniques that used perspectives higher than eye level and that extremely cut or expanded major objects for emphasis were typical Ukiyo-e characteristics. The result of this study is found out by showing the evidence that influence of this Ukiyo-e's method came up with specificity as planity, naturality, decoration and express on the Art Nouveau jewelry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.42-58
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine actual design cases of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style from the end of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century, and create designs and fashion works to meet our contemporary fashion trends by means of over-decorative style, a characteristic of decorative detail. The characteristics of decorative detail in the Art Nouveau style can be outlined as follows: First, pleats appear with two major feels of solidity, undulated and curvilinear solidity based on gather(ruffle, frill/ flare and flounce) and regular and linear solidity based on linear pleats or tucks. Second, embroidery appears in various patterns developed with stitch of solid feel as well as a variety of coloration effects. Third, attachments are expressed by means of independent motif(applique, gloss effects(beads, sequins), affluent texture and mobility(fur, feather). Moreover, according to technical characteristics and expressive aspects of pleats, embroidery and attachments, it is found that decoration detail in the era of Art Nouveau is over-decoration style. Indeed, it appears in major expressive aspects such as rhythmical solid type, detailed prominence type, superficial touch type and profound volume type.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.80-86
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• 2008

This study is to understand how fluidity and natural features of Art Nouveau style are reflected in hair style of Art Nouveau age and Modem age and be a help to the trend analysis of hair style in the future. The study is conducted with the research on Art Nouveau expression in hair style and analysis of hair-show, trend presentation, documents related with hair style, TV drama, theses, journals and internet etc through advance research for Art Nouveau and Hair. The result of the analysis on Art Nouveau pattern in hair design is presented as below. First, it shows rounded, winding, flowing and thick-waved style of Art Nouveau pattern in modem long and short hair style. It also shows the beauty of long, bending and flexible lines, waving liveness and thin and slim lines and this is the Art Nouveau pattern that is also applied to other fields. In terms of decoration, it does not use tree vines, leaves and petals that are expressed in paintings of Art Nouveau age. Second, it shows natural up-style by lifting hair up with waved long hair that is one pattern of Art Nouveau and expresses hair style with feathers of birds, tree vines, leaves and petals etc for more decoration in animal pattern to make cute, romantic and elegant style in hair style.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.39-51
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of Art Nouveau interior and furniture. For this purpose, the method of literature analysis was used. First, the general characteristics and background of Art Nouveau were investigated. Then the central architects of Art Nouveau were selected; Victor Horta, Henri Van do Velde, Hector Guimard, Antoni Gaudi and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, and their interior and furniture works were investigate to understand the characteristics of Art Nouveau interior and furniture. Their intoner and furniture works were fantastic and their designs became the base of Bauhous, the beginning of modern design.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제25호
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• pp.198-204
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• 2000

Art Nouveau was a short-lived European phenomenon in art and architecture. Despite the fact that Art Nouveau architecture never fully succeeded as an anti-historical movement, it is important to identify its place in modern architectural historiography. The significance of Art Nouveau-that it incorporated decorative elements into the centre of architectural practice-certainly serves to acknowledge its place within the Modern Movement. Architectural works of Victor Horta, Hector Guimard and Charles Rennie Mackintosh are carefully examined in this paper to find out (1) how they individually emerged and manifested distinctive characteristics and creativity within their own local contexts, and (2) how they can collectively fit into historical discourse of Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau was not a mere fin-de-ci cle phenomenon, but a complicated transient phase at the dawn of European Modernism.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.125-141
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• 1994

Alois Riegl's aesthetic theory of visual perception provided one of important conceptual backgrounds for Vienna Art Nouveau architecture. Riegls theory of visual perception consists of geometric style and two-dimensional transformation. Riegl's theory of geometric style is based on the modern aesthetic theory of abstraction, which says that the artistic perfection can be obtained not from a direct imitation of natural objects, but from an abstract transformation of them. Riegl's theory of two-dimensional transformation, on the other hand, aims at obtaining artistic perfection by disintegrating volumetric conditions of natural things into planes and combining the planes thus obtained into another new world of art. These two theories of Alois Rigl's provided an important aesthetical background for the design strategy of 'abstract ornamentaion of two-dimension' in Vienna Art Nouveau architecture. This paper is to review the basic concept of Alois Rigl's theory of geometric style and two-dimensional transformation.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.143-159
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• 1994

Ornament in late nineteenth century Art Nouveau movement, especially abstract ornament in Viennese Art Nouveau, has a very complex aesthetical background. Ornament, for them was not just decorations in outer appearance, but a determinant element of formal languages. Abstract ornament in Viennese Art Nouveau has its theoretical and aesthetical bases in the Interpretation of nature, that is, the theory of the abstract ornament was founded on a new interpretation of nature, which, in its turn, was derived from the differentiational selection of the contemporary views of nature. The modernity of abstract ornament consists in the very fact that it was founded on a new interpretation of nature. This study alms at reviewing how the new interpretation of nature by abstract ornament criticized, rejected and accepted the contemporary views of nature. The overall tendency of this study is to synthesize and analyze the historical background of Viennes Art-Nouveau in regard to aesthetic theories of nature. The analysis method of this study is interpretation of written documents which are related to the issue.