• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.165-172
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• 2021

Breaking wave is one of the important design factors in the design of coastal and port structures as they are directly related to various physical phenomena occurring on the coast, such as onshore currents, sediment transport, shock wave pressure, and energy dissipation. Due to the inherent complexity of the breaking wave, many empirical formulas have been proposed to predict breaker indices such as wave breaking height and breaking depth using hydraulic models. However, the existing empirical equations for breaker indices mainly were proposed via statistical analysis of experimental data under the assumption of a specific equation. In this study, a new Munk-type empirical equation was proposed to predict the height of breaking waves based on a representative linear supervised machine learning technique with high predictive performance in various research fields related to regression or classification challenges. Although the newly proposed breaker height formula was a simple polynomial equation, its predictive performance was comparable to that of the currently available empirical formula.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1997.10a
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• pp.25-30
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• 1997

쇄파대내의 파랑은 원래 비선형성이며 더욱이 불규칙적이다. 이러한 비선형 파랑은 수심의 변화에 의해 불안정하게 된다. 이때 분산 및 일산의 효과가 적절하다면 비선형성과 균형을 이루어 soliton과 같은 안정한 비선형 파동으로 안착하나 이것의 효과가 충분하지 못하면 파형 변동이 현저히 되어 때로는 쇄파가 생긴다. 쇄파하면 이에 의한 파의 흐트러짐이 발생하여 새로운 일산기구가 발생하므로 비선형이 약해지면서 균형을 이루게 되며, 최종적으로는 안정한 파열로 안착하게 된다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2009.10a
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• pp.164-167
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• 2009

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.523-528
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• 1995

The mysids, Archaeomysis kokuboi and Acanthomysis sp., clearly exhibited the diel patterns of interspecific horizontal migration in the surf zone at a sandy shore in Yongil Bay, eastern Korea. Shoreward migration of Acanthomysis sp. at sunset resulted in the presence of significantly high numbers of mysids after dark at the bottom of 1 m depth. At first light, Acanthomysis sp. moved back to deeper water of>1 m depth in conjunction with a reverse migration by A. kokuboi. In the afternoon, A. kokuboi moved to offshore, then these species remained there. Although A. kokuboi has been considered an intertidal species in the exposed beaches with strong wave action, this is not the case in a sandy beach of Yongil Bay. We suggest that evidence for behavioral adaptation comes from the response of k. kokuboi to the sheltered beaches with weak wave action. The habitat shifts presumably provide this species with high availability of food materials in the surf zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-140
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• 1995

The procedure of wave energy dissipation due to breaking has been investigated with trains of the regular wave. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a stable value at some distance from the breaking point Experimental results show that the stable wave is considerably affected by the wave period. The study gives the general form of stable wave height A new one-dimensional wave deformation model is proposed. being coupled with an approximated shoaling coefficient before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. It was compared with the experimental data. It predicts well the wave height deformation before and after wave breaking even on the abrupt change of the depth.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.263-265
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• 2002

외해에서 전파되어 온 파랑은 상대적으로 수심이 얕은 천해로 이동하면서 바닥지형의 영향으로 회절, 굴절, 반사, 천수 및 쇄파 등과 같은 다양한 현상을 경험한다. 본 연구에서는 바닥지형의 변화에 따른 파랑의 반사에 대해 검토하였다. (중략)

• Korean Journal of Ichthyology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.182-202
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• 1990

Gobiid fish were collected monthly in Cheonsu Bay by a beach seine from the shallow water and by an otter trawl from the deep water from September, 1984 to August, 1986. Seasonal variation in species composition and biology of the major species were examined with the data of length and age composition. Fourteen speices of gobies were identified. Gobiid fish were more abundant in the shallow water than in the deep water. In the shallow water, they constituted 66% and 39% of the fish collected in the mud flat and the sand beach, respectively. The suction discs of the gobies explains that they inhabit successfully in the surf zone where the wave action is strong. Of the major species, Chaenogobius mororanus predominated in the shallow mud flat. A large number of adults of this species were obtained in Spring and their juveniles were collected from Summer through Autumn. Favonigobius gymnauchen was abundant in the shallow water, especially in the sand beach. This fish seemed to spawn from May through June, about two months later than Chaenogobius mororanus. Acanthogobius hasta juveniles lived in the shallow water and moved into the deep water as the fish grew. Chaturichthys stigmatias was collected mainly in the deep zone.