• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.620-625
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• 2017

In this study, the dyeing conditions(temperature, time, concentration) are changed from various conditions on wool fabrics by using corydalis tuber extract in order to develop new natural dyes. The purpose of this study is to improve the dyeability, color fastness, and functionality and to derive optimal dyeing conditions by comparing and analyzing the changes of K/S values and surface color by dyeing pH changes, mordant method, and mordant type. As a result of the experiment, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool fabrics is shown dyeing temperature:$80^{\circ}C$, dyeing time:90min, dyeing concentration:100%. The dyeability by pH variants of corydalis tuber extract indicates that K/S values is higher alkaline than acidic. The mordant method of corydalis tuber extract showed pre-mordant has high K/S values. In terms of color fastness, marked improvement has not been shown despite of mordant treatment on wool fabrics. In particular, color change of color fastness to washing, color fastness to light indicates the low fastness. In addition, the functionality such as antibacterial activities and deodorization can be given at dyeing with corydalis tuber extract thus it is expected to be applied to underwear or apparel products for the elderly and infirm and children with weak skin that required high functionality.

• 대한교통학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.43-55
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• 1999

화물의 시간가치 연구는 운송과정에서 화물이 갖는 중요도를 평가하며 운송중의 재고비용까지 나타내어 효율적인 물류관리를 위한 방향을 제시해 준다. 화물의 시간가치는 화물의 업종에 따라 차이를 보이며, 동일한 업종내에서도 화주의 특성에 따라 차이를 보인다. 이것은 운송시간의 절감에 보이는 화주의 행태가 다르며, 그로 인해 운송시간의 절감에 대한 화주의 지불용이가 각각 다르게 나타나기 때문이다. 본 연구에서는 우리나라 제조업체의 화주를 대상으로 지역간 화문운송의 시간가치를 추정하였다. 연구방법은 화주가 공로운송수단을 선정할 때 중요한 기준이 되는 인식요소를 추출하고, 그에 따라 화주돈을 동질의 업종으로 분할한 후 다항로짓모형을 추정하여 화주집단별 시간가치를 도출하였다. 연구의 결과 지역간 화물운송의 시간가치는 화물업종마다 차이를 보였으며, 평균적으로 한시간의 운송시간을 줄이기 위해서는 출하차량 1대당 1.680원(톤당 389원)을 지불해야 하는 것으로 나타났다. 이를 화물 업종별로 분류하면 의류·직물, 사무기계 ·가전제품, 통신·정밀과학 등은 2,906원으로 추정되었고, 음식료품, 비금속광물, 제1차금속산업, 조립금속산업 및 자동차부품 등은 1,248원으로 나타났다. 그리고 가구, 출판·인쇄물, 화학제품 등은 1,041원의 크기를 보였다. 다음으로 운송중의 재고비용은 평균적으로 화물가격의 9.54%로 추정되었으며, 사무기계·가전제품 등 고가의 화물은 화물가격의 약 50%에 달하는 반면에 비금속광물 등 저가의 화물은 낮은 재고비용을 갖는 것으로 평가되었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.224-232
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• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.22-29
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• 2008

In this study, it is investigated the types and the compounding method of flower patterns and the uses of flower patterned fabrics in Chosun Dynasty. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing during 16-17th century. Our ancestors had used the various flower patterns based on Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism onto the fabrics. The flower patterns on the fabrics were expressed with the other patterns such as treasure patterns, letter patterns or bird patterns. And the flower patterns symbolized the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. In the order of the percentage, the types of the flower patterns were shown Lotus(27.31%), Arabesque(26.85%), Japanese apricot(14.81%), Peony(8.79%), Flowering plants(6.94%), Chrysanthemum(6.01%), Pomegranate(2.31%) patterns and so on. Especially the Lotus pattern was shown up most frequently. That of shape was designed as blooming(開花), full bloom(滿開) and the side of flower(側面). By the compounding method, the compound types mixed with the other patterns were used much more than the individual types composed by its own pattern. The flower patterns were used a lot in Jeogori(Jacket) regardless of the ganders and in men's Po(coat) including Cheollik(天翼), Dappo(胡), Jeonbok(戰服), Dahnryoung(團領), etc. Also contrary to these days, the flower patterned fabrics had come out in the shrouds. Judging from these facts, our ancestors wished that the meaning of the immortal life was included in the flower pattern.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.762-770
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examine of the flower patterned fabrics used for the Shrouds during 15~18th century in Chosun Dynasty. The Shrouds at that time could be classified by the garments for the dead(殮襲衣) and the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具). And we looked into the types and the compounding methods of the flower pattern used for the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具) as well as the Shrouds accounting to the uses. Results of this study are as follows. 1) The flower patterned fabrics weaved as the uses of the garments for the dead(殮襲衣), item by item, were divided into the upper garment, the lower garment and men's Po(coat). 2) Seeing Jeogori, mixed various flower patterned fabrics, among the upper garment, there were focused on the various good meanings such as longevity, integrity and prosperity etc. 3) The flower patterns in men's Po(coat) were used a lot in Jangui and Dahnryoung. Cheollik, Dappo, Jeonbok, etc made of the flower patterned fabrics, were of small number but we can feel an aesthetic sense of men at that time. 4) The flower patterned fabrics weaved the lower garments, were used much more in the skirts than in the trousers, for reasons of the wrapping a dead body. 5) Seeing the flower pattern used the utensils used in religious services(殮襲諸具), the pattern of Lotus and Arabesque, among the types of flower pattern, had a majority.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.566-571
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• 2008

Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(${\Delta}L$) and the frequency difference(${\Delta}f$). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing. ${\Delta}L$ values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of ${\Delta}f$ were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness. ${\Delta}L$ was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and ${\Delta}f$ with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight. ${\Delta}L$were predicted by tensile linearity, and ${\Delta}f$ by tensile linearity and thickness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.462-475
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• 2015

This paper investigated the characteristics of the physical properties of woven fabrics according to the yarn structure and fibre property. It was found that wicking property of woven fabrics made of sheath/core hybrid yarn were better than those of siro spun and siro-fil hybrid yarns, which was caused by platform for transport of moisture vapor by filaments on the core part of sheath core hybrid yarns. In drying property, the fabric specimen woven by PP/Tencel sheath core hybrid yarns as a warp and Coolmax/Tencel spun yarn as a weft showed quick drying property, which was caused by the sheath core hybrid yarn structure as drainage of water moisture and coolmax fibre characteristics as quick dry material. Concerning to breathability and thermal conductivity as heat transport phenomena, it was observed that breathability of fabrics woven with hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp and hi-multi filaments in the weft showed the lowest water vapor resistance, which was explained as due to for air gap in the fibres of the spun yarns to restrict the wet heat transport from perspiration vapor. Thermal conductivities of the fabrics woven with PET/Tencel siro-fil yarns in the weft and hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp revealed the highest values, which was observed as due to higher thermal conductivity of PET than PP and more contact point between fibres in the siro-fil and sheath core hybrid yarns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.