• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.963-978
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• 2008

This study examined the images and formative features of female characters portrayed in fantasy films. This study aimed at providing an applicable theory to modern fashion by reconsidering the images of women appearing in fantasy films and arranging fantastical features reflected in costumes of female characters. The followings were the results of the study: The first divine nature that human beings discovered was woman nature. The discovered stone worked of the prehistoric age had a meaning of the great mother of universe and expressed a positive image. Such positive images of the goddess were variously differentiated to negative images or reduced in their roles and meanings in the settlement process of patriarchy as well as sociocultural transition. The foremost examples of negative image were expressed as grotesque, destructive, otherness, sensual, and exotic. The positive image of a goddess in fantasy films was not especially emphasized. On the other hand, the negative images of the goddess and the case of costumes were variously expressed as well as emphasized the typicality of the negative image of the characters. It was reconsidered that the typical features of characters in fantasy films were a result of the image of women following sociocultural transition. In addition, it was confirmed that such result was being reflected in film costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.98-112
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• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.98-110
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• 2009

This study has outlined and summarized academic meaning of formative characteristics of Organic Modernism represented by various aspects of design, art, industry and architecture, then has intented to define concept of Organic Modernism Fashion. Eventually, this study is to make a analysis of formative characteristics of Organic Modernism Fashion Design. Based on example of Organic Modernism applied to architectural structure, industrial products and pure paintings, this study has analyzed and researched into formative characteristics of Organic Modernism represented by fashion design. As a consequence of study, its characteristics are defined as below; The first, the beauty of simple formation using delicate curve. The second, the expression of symbolic formation based on surrealism. The third, the expression of continuous 3-dimensional curved surface. And the last characteristic is a providing transformable multi-function. Through those characteristics mentioned above, it may be expected to define a concept of Organic Modernism Fashion Design newly and to set a precedent for providing a basic criteria to classify formative characteristics of Organic Modernism Fashion Design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.116-132
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• 2008

Continuity and discontinuity is a relative concept, and there are various categories of the continuity and discontinuity in our circumference. In the thought of postmodernism of the late of 20th Century, continuous creations of the difference and the repetition have being regarded as a discontinuity. But, because of that catches the moment occurring qualitative skip though the flowing of the everlasting time, this has been known to a shortsighted viewpoint overlooking characteristic of the qualitative continuity of an organism, which have being created continuous formation for life through the flowing of the time. Therefore, this had studied like this complex social condition and various relationships expressed in modern fashion focusing on permanently creative movements and behaviors equal to the qualitative continuity. This Thesis is following study about continuity, and aims at understanding of those formative characteristics through consideration about characteristics of qualitative continuity. And, this analyzes formative characteristics of the qualitative continuity into 5 sets: enlargement, conversion, structural variability, mutual combination, and deconstruction. This thesis intends to grasp complex modern social phenomenon and modern fashion into qualitative continuity that means continuous formation and the change of various relationships according to recognition about the course toward open thinking.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.130-146
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• 2007

Thought of postmodernism accepted between variety and differentiation is characterized by variability and indeterminacy aimed at continuous change. For that reason, modern fashion has been grouping a lot of manners for creation of the various different form and structure. This paper studies the characteristics of the folding system, which expands efficiency of the spatial utility and shows various forms. Folding system expressed in modern fashion could be divided the pleats, which were made of the folding, and the dreaperies, which were made of bending. This selects the pleats as a enlarged concept of the folding system that contains between the former and the letter. Pleats did not mean two dimensional folding surfaces, but three dimensional spatial structures. For understanding of the folding system as a three dimensional spatial structure, this is utilized with the thought of the 'le pli' of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze. The pleats expressed in modern fashion can subdivided into 4 sets; crinkle system, origami system, fractal pleats by folding system, and drapery system. And Formative characteristics of the pleats are analyzed with enlargement, fluidity, deconstruction, irregularity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.688-701
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• 2007

Since modem times, civilization of scientific technology has rapidly expanded and resulted in many negative aspects. Dystopia is a skeptical future standpoint newly introduced by surging awareness of these negative aspects. The purpose of this study is to discover the common characteristics by studying costumes displayed in dystopian films which have critical view of the future. This study is made through the research of sundry records, thesis and capture images from DVD system. As a result of the study, the common formative characteristics of future costumes appearing in six dystopian films are classified into external characteristics and internal characteristics. First, external characteristics were analyzed according to the form, material and color. Second, internal characteristics of costumes appearing in dystopian films are categorized as the indeterminate expression, ex-typical expression and uniform expression. The above formative characteristics of dystopian future costumes can be described as the embodiment of meanings of influence from present and future cultural changes in terms of the characteristics of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.66-81
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.119-127
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• 2011

This purpose of this study was to analyze the formation and look into design characteristics by types and method of expression on multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design. Total 191 pieces of multifunctional fashion design photographs were collected through fashion collection from 2000 S/S to S/S 2010 F/W on the website. First, the characteristics of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design used squared silhouette, achromatic colors, plain patterns for pollution control, hard materials to prolong the product, it was clear that details were minimized to save resources. Second, there were 5 changeable types of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design which were changes in changing forms, material changes, item changes, detail changes and complex changes. Third, as the result of changeable types by method of expression, the changing forms were expressed by removable, material changes by reversible, detail changes by open and close and item changes by shifting. Forth, the formative properties of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design had flexibility, multifunction, versatility and amusing. Therefore, this study will be helpful in planning multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design according to the kind of formative characteristics, changeable types, method of expression and provide concrete fundamental materials for the expert in clothing on the base of objective data through statistical analysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.198-206
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• 2006

Hypertext is a web form consisted of HTML(hypertext markup language) which is used in Internet. Hypertext in costume is the product of modem industrial society. Hypertext is not a mechanical technique that enlarges external capacity of human beings. It is rather a motif that extends the internal ability of human beings. It brings about the social innovation by extending the expression realm of costume and providing the various views of recognition. This study regards costume not as an artistic work but as a text which interacts in the open relationship of human body, society and culture and causes dynamic generation of meaning. This study distinguishes Plasticitic Characteristics of Hypertext in Costume with intertextuality, rhizome, interactivity in the structural characteristics of hypertext which is a typical trait of digital culture of openness and variousness. In conclusion, this study clarified plasticitic value of modem costume, which expresses vague isms and the pargidm of multi-typed culture most sensitively and condretley, and expressional forms in relation with the structural characteristics of hypertext.