• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.1-18
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• 2010

The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.61-73
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• 2002

The purpose of this study lies in pursuing the unique plastic arts with the orchid motif which has the graceful colors and a variety of shapes beauty. Another aspect of this study intends to crease the modern costume design with the high added value by expressing the texture according to the material and tissue development for the continual improvement and promotion of the modern costume design in the handicraft art area. The results through the theoretical survey and the work production are as follows : First, the orchid which has the various shapes and colors provides the designers with the unique plastic arts and the possibilities for the unlimited expressions as the design motives. Second, we can see the creation of cubic plastic beauty in the moving line, as the material which has the flexible and brilliant shape fixation, used for expressing the shape beauty of the orchid. Third, this study reveals the extension of expression areas as a characteristic of the plastic arcs by applying handicraft techniques such as dyeing, corded tuck, flounce, crochet, weaving, beads embroidery, and art flower to the costumes for developing the unique material and texture. Finally, the possibility is suggested that the desires of the moderns searching for their own individualities can be met by creating the costumes with the added vague as the exposure of esthetic consciousness through the handicraft expression techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.824-841
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• 2010

In 21st century, subordinated relationship of fashion from the body has been disappearing, and fashion is understood as variable and creative field. This research aims at analysis about the relationship between the body and fashion depending on the theories about the authority and the desire. So, this utilizes between theoretical study and empirical analysis. For concentrated study, research period limits from 2000 to the present time 2010. Contemporary body and fashion have being changed into various forms and values, become complex and de-territory. Especially, body is symbol of ambivalence eroticism that gives point to sexual property, and the object of fetishism and machine having a desire. This study's purpose draw a parallel with between the limits of contemporary body that couldn't be rid of the capital and desire, and the liberty of fashion that escape from the body's influence has being changed independent and fluid space. This research's results are as follow as; contemporary de-territory fashion is expressed as 1) symbol of the object and physical material property, 2) self-transcendental instrument fashion, 3) independent spatial molding, 4) de-centering fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.688-701
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• 2007

Since modem times, civilization of scientific technology has rapidly expanded and resulted in many negative aspects. Dystopia is a skeptical future standpoint newly introduced by surging awareness of these negative aspects. The purpose of this study is to discover the common characteristics by studying costumes displayed in dystopian films which have critical view of the future. This study is made through the research of sundry records, thesis and capture images from DVD system. As a result of the study, the common formative characteristics of future costumes appearing in six dystopian films are classified into external characteristics and internal characteristics. First, external characteristics were analyzed according to the form, material and color. Second, internal characteristics of costumes appearing in dystopian films are categorized as the indeterminate expression, ex-typical expression and uniform expression. The above formative characteristics of dystopian future costumes can be described as the embodiment of meanings of influence from present and future cultural changes in terms of the characteristics of fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.66-81
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• 2009

The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of $D{\acute{e}}paysement$ and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.119-127
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• 2011

This purpose of this study was to analyze the formation and look into design characteristics by types and method of expression on multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design. Total 191 pieces of multifunctional fashion design photographs were collected through fashion collection from 2000 S/S to S/S 2010 F/W on the website. First, the characteristics of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design used squared silhouette, achromatic colors, plain patterns for pollution control, hard materials to prolong the product, it was clear that details were minimized to save resources. Second, there were 5 changeable types of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design which were changes in changing forms, material changes, item changes, detail changes and complex changes. Third, as the result of changeable types by method of expression, the changing forms were expressed by removable, material changes by reversible, detail changes by open and close and item changes by shifting. Forth, the formative properties of multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design had flexibility, multifunction, versatility and amusing. Therefore, this study will be helpful in planning multifunctional eco-friendly fashion design according to the kind of formative characteristics, changeable types, method of expression and provide concrete fundamental materials for the expert in clothing on the base of objective data through statistical analysis.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.935-946
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• 2008

Religion is the symbolic form and action, linking the ultimate condition of life with human beings. Religious idea grasps the world through symbols and gives birth to the action through symbols. This research put its purpose in elucidating the effect of religion on the costume and its mechanism. It's focus is centered on Buddhism, Hinduism, and Islam which are among the world high religions. Part of this research also examines the mechanism in which several composing factors are expressed with rituals and manifested with costumes, this process was diagrammatized and suggested. The composing factors of religion such as belief system, experiences, community, and rituals are closely related. Ritual especially, is the symbolic action, practice, and the way of rescue, expressing religious meaning. Religious rituals such as imitative rituals, positive or negative rituals, sacrificial ritual, and rites of passage have been expressed with religious music or figurative art such as costume, construction, and art as well as religious ritual like ancestral rites. Religion has had a great effect on the overall culture including costume as a belief system by lightening the meaning of life and suggesting the solutions to the human problems such as anxiety or conflict.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.965-981
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• 2007

Since the latter half of 20 century, in Korea, there are many discussions on the identity of Korean itself in several divisions, in which the discussion on the identity in the part of the costume or the part of the art reflecting the life, is the subject which must not fail to be noticed. So, we try to study the common structure manifested in the Korean painting and the costume as a part of basic recognition of problems and the way of problem-solving for the research on the Koran formative characteristics. The method and the process of this study is first, to consider the characteristics of the plastic and style of the Oriental arts and the Occidental arts by discourse implicate the difference between Oriental and Occidental view and the recognition of the body in the two worlds. And in the study we try to apprehend the dynamic modern artistic value of Korean style through assimilation between the Korean style and Baroque style according to the theory of $W\ddot{o}lfflin$ about the classical style and Baroque style. We will describe the Korean identity by analyzing the Korean plasticity with the Occidental style of dress and paintings reflecting the Occidental culture and thought and the Oriental things, and modern paintings and dress in the present age. As a result, we can try to recherche the way of use of new design for the identity of Korean style, in the concept of the ellipsis, repetition of the retrait, obscur silhouette, and superimposition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.