• Title/Summary/Keyword: 복식색채

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A Study on Fashion Design Using Geometric Pattern (기하학적 패턴을 활용한 패션디자인 연구)

  • 김신우;금기숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.1
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    • pp.53-67
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    • 2002
  • 자연을 분석함으로써, 얻어진 기하학적 패턴은 이미 자연의 질서를 포함하고 있는 논리적이고 합리적인 기본형이기 때문에 간결하며 시각적으로 명쾌감을 준다. 이러한 기하학적 패턴은 복식 디자인에 있어서 20 세기 이후 여러 디자이너의 작품을 통해 재구성되어 현대적 이미지를 나타내는 중요한 모티브가 되고 있으며, 다양한 기법과 재료로 형성화하여 도입되고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 복식의 문양, 실루엣, 디테일에 사용되고 있는 기하학적 패턴을 연구함으로써 기하학적 패턴의 새로운 조형가치를 고찰하였다. 먼저 기하학의 용어 정의를 하였고 기하학적 패턴의 유형과 표현 기법을 분석하고 정리하여 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴의 조형미와 그것을 바탕으로 패션 이미지를 추론해 보았다. 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학 패턴을 분석해 보면 유형으로는 첫째, 기하하적 문양으로 복식디자인에 있어서 주로 평면적인 형태로 많이 나타나지만, 크기가 다르고 동일한 기하학적 패턴을 조합시킴으로서 평면적인 형태에 공간감을 부여하기도 하며, 같은 기하학적 패턴의 표면이라도 배치구조에 의해 직선 혹은 사선으로 지각되므로 전혀 다른 이미지를 주었다. 또한 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴이 종류는 세로 스트라이프, 가로 스트라이프, 격자 문양, 원, 사선 스트라이프, 마름모, 사각형, 삼각형 등의 순서로 많이 나타났다. 둘째, 색채는 단색의 복식에 강한 대비가 이루어지는 색상으로 표현되어 역동감과 유연한 운동감을 나타났다. 셋째, 기하학적 실루엣으로 단순한 라인의 형태를 나타내거나 입체적이고 부조적인 형태로 구성되어 전체적인 실루엣으로 사용되어 강한 조형감각을 보여주는데 원형을 이용한 실루엣이 가장 많았으며 사각형을 이용한 실루엣, 삼각형을 이용한 실루엣 순서로 나타났다. 넷째, 기하학적인 디테일로 복식의 어느 한 부분에 장식적으로 사용되거나 입체적 형태로 부출 되어 부조적인 느낌을 주는데 소매에 가장 많이 나타났으며 앞여밈, 칼라, 밑단, 주머니 순서로 장식되었다. 다섯째, 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴의 표현기법으로는 프린팅, 퀼팅, piece기법, 패치워크, 엮기, 꼴라쥬, 아플리케 순서로 많이 나타났다. 위의 분석을 토대로 기하학 패턴을 활용한 디자인에 내재된 조형의지는 다음과 같이 정리되었다. 첫째, 기하학적 패턴이 지닌 단순성과 경직성을 완화하기 위하여 여러 가지 패브릭을 조합시켜 입체적인 표면효과로 시각적인 착시효과를 극대화하였다. 둘째, 표현기법은 입체파적 표현주의의 특성의 하나로 복시에 사용되는 소재의 왜곡으로 설명할 수 있으며, 새롭고 실험적인 소재의 도입으로 인해 의외성과 부조화를 유발시키는 통시에 유희직인 일면도 지니는 일종의 그로테스크를 나타냈다. 이상에서 정립된 조형의지를 바탕으로 현대 패션에 나타란 기하학 패턴은 절제된 단순함과 명확성으로 단순미가 유추되었고 강한 색상대비로 인한 시각적 집중효과로 주목성을 가지며 재현이 가능하므로 반복성이 유추되었다. 그리고 표준영역이 없는 창의적 표현으로 풍부한 독창성을 보여주고 있다. 또한 내재된 패션 이미지를 분석해 보면 정확함과 차가움의 의미를 지닌 이지적 이미지와 우주의 질서를 반영하는 상징적 이미지, 복잡한 자연으로부터 간결한 형태로의 경향성이 이루어낸 인공적 이미지를 느낄 수 있었으며, 미래적 이미지와 전통적 이미지의 상반된 개념의 이미지를 같이 내포하고 있음을 추론할 수 있었다. 이와 같이 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴은 복식을 조형예술 분야로 확실히 인식시키고 발전시키는 데 중요한 촉매제 역할을 담당하고 있으며 또한 많은 디자이너들에게 창조적 욕구를 불러일으키고 영감을 주는데 중요한 모티브를 제공하고 있다.

Screen Printing Designs using the Lotus as a Source of Inspiration and Selected Design Criteria by E. Paul Torrance (E.Paul Torrance 의 디자인 기준에 의하여 선택된 연화문(蓮花紋)을 응용한 스크린 프린팅 디자인 연구)

  • 한명숙;남기선
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.118-128
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    • 1997
  • 본 연구의 목적은 「Guiding Crieative Talent」의 저자이자 교수인 E.Pual Torrance에 의하여 제시된 디자인 기준(design criteria) 중에 3가지 디자인 기준을 선택하여, 스크린 프린팅기법에 의거, 일련의 디자인을 제작하는 것이다. 이 디자인 기준은 1958년, Torrance에 의하여 수행된 \"The Minnesota Tests of Creative Thinking\" 중 일부이다. 그는 \"창의적인 발상전개에 있어서 보다 더 주의를 요하는 것은 마지막 생산물(the products)이 아니라 그것의 과정(the process)인 것이다.\"라고 강조해 왔으며, 창의적 사고에 관한 개념을 제시해 왔다. 본 연구의 디자인은 그 창작의 착상의 모티브(motif)로써 연화문(蓮花紋)을 선택하여 다양한 디자인의 스크린 프린팅을 창작하였다. 12개의 디자인이 제작되었데, 그것은 Torrance에 의하여 제안된 약 20개의 기준(criteria) 가운데 저자가 디자인 착상에 있어서 최소한의 기본요소라 생각되어, 임의로 선택한 3가지 기준에 의하여 만들어졌다. :3가지 기준이란 1) 모티브(motif)의 수적증가(multiplication) 2) 모티브(motif)의 위치변화 3) 모티브(motif)의 모양변화이다. 전체적인 디자인과 테두리 디자인(border design)이 선택적으로 디자인 과정에 포함되었으며, 최종적으로 12개의 디자인이 선택, 1가지의 색채를 이용하여 스크린 프린팅에 의하여 제작되었다. 디자인 제작과정으로, Torrance의 각각의 디자인 기준에 의한 여러 장의 스케치를 그린 후, 그중 12개의 스케치를 임의로 선택하여 옷감위에 프린팅하였다. 디자인 제작 결과, 저자가 선택한 3개의 디자인 기준만으로도 다양한 수의 서로 다른 디자인 창작이 가능하였으며 본 연구에서는 1개의 디자인 기준을 선택 응용하였으나 보다 많은 디자인 기준을 선택하여 동시에 비교 연구하는 것도 필요하다고 본다. 그리고 1개 이상의 디자인 모티브(motif)를 함께 디자인 착상에 이용하는 것도 가능하다고 본다.

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Color Preferences According to Personality Types in term of Color Attributes (성격특성에 따른 색채의 속성별 의복색 선호도-대구광역시 의류학전공 여대생을 중심으로-)

  • 박화순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.87-100
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    • 1995
  • This Paper is intended to analyze color preferences for apparel, and color preferences according to personality types. The subjects are one hundred twenty five female university students majoring in clothing, textile & design. Color stimulus are divided according to season, value and chroma, and personality types are classified into four : introverted, achieving, age-gressive and conservative. Duncan test, factor analysis and descriptive statistics have been applied to data processing. The findings are as follows. In terms of hue preferences, winter colors are most preferred and autumn colors follow. In re-gard to value preferences, low value colors have been found to be preferred and in respect to chroma preferences, low chroma colors have been found to be preferred. Seasonal colors, value and chroma show significant differences at the level of P<.001. In terms of color preferences for apparel fabrics according to personality types, winter colors are most preferred regardless of person-ality types, and autum colors follow. The introverted and the conservative dislike summer colors least and the achieving and the aggress-ive, spring colors. In respect to value preferences, low value colors are preferred irrespective of personality types. The introverted and the achieving dislike high value colors least and the aggressive and the conservative, mid value colors. With regard to chroma preferences, all person-ality types have been found to prefer low chroma colors. They dislike mid chroma color, and high chroma colors are least preferred.

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Data Base Construction of Representative Practical Colors of Domestic Fashion Industry in Korea (국내 패션업계에서 활용되는 대표색의 Color Data Base 구현)

  • Choo Sunhyung;Cho Ju-Yeon;Kim Youngin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.8 s.99
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    • pp.144-153
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study is to make a Web Color Data Base for practical design system for domestic fashion industry. The market segmentation was based on the results of the previous studies and the characteristics of fashion consumers. Finally, the 14,121 color samples are collected from the survey of 55 manufacturers of domestic fashion industry and 116 fashion brands of major department stores. These color samples are analyzed by the Munsell's H V/C and CIE L*a*b* value. The representative colors are selected concerning the density in CIE L*a*b* color space and the distance between the color samples. As a result, We suggested 2213 representative colors. Also, this color data was constructed on Web site. The data were sorted by the market, season and color code. In addition, the representative color sample book was made for the prototype of .

A Study on the Works of Philip Treacy II (필립트레이시(Philip Treacy) 작품연구II)

  • Kim, Eun-Sil
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.10
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    • pp.151-171
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

Modern Application of Design Elements on Ceremonial Costume of Korean Folk Belief (한국 민간신앙 의례복에 나타난 디자인 요소의 현대적 활용 - 배색을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Ji-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.88-96
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to present examples for modern application with traditional color on ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief which is regarded as representative research material standing for Korean cultural archetype. The arrangements of color on the ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief were selected from 11 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset. These color arrangements were composed of fundamental colors from the viewpoint of modern color sensation, but had a excellent harmony in Hue. Therefore, not shifting Hue of color arrangement on ceremonial costume, traditional color arrangement was apply to contemporary it by shifting tone. Brilliant and deep chromatic tone that belong to 3, 4 area was converted into toned light grey, light clear, dark deep, toned dark grey, and greyish chromatic tone that belong to 1, 2 area or 5, 6, 0 area or 2, 7, 9 area. The plan that applies arrangement color with brightness contrast of traditional fundamental colors on a modern color harmony was presented from that. Like this, we can combine traditional color into modern color sensation, stylize and apply it on a production of character, logogram design, fashion design for characters in animation or game. From this, we'll be able to be close to the color arrangement sensation including our racial emotion in the everyday life.

The Study on How Art Nouveau and Art Deco's Influenced on Modern Fashion (아르누보와 아르데코 양식이 현대패션에 미친 영향에 대한연구)

  • Lee, Soon-Hong;Je, Yoon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.235-247
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    • 1999
  • The influences of Art nouveau and Art Deco are as follow: The first, in the side of silhouette, hourglass style and bell shaped skirt influence on mordern fashion chiefly and S-curve style was mollified. Empire style, hobble style in art deco age are all showed diversely, in these styles especially boyish style give an outstanding trasts to modern fashion. The second, the color of art deco, characterized by pastel in art nouveau's color tone, original color and black and gold was reflected on the textile design and showed diversely in the color fo modern fashion. The third, in the field of textile and pattern, flower and plant which was a motive of art nouveau style, organic curve and geometrical pattern and exotic motive was seperately used with motive in the pattern and design of mordern. Textile of goldish and silver tone, metal stuff, lace embroidery, fur, artifical flower, feather etc. showed up on the many parts of clothing. Like this Art Nouveau and Art style not only had a great effect on the costume but also decorations and formative arts.

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A Study on Rhythm and Color expressed in S. Delaunay′s Textile Design (들로네(S. Delaunay)의 직물디자인에 나타난 리듬과 색채에 관한 연구)

  • 정혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.6
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    • pp.47-58
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    • 2000
  • This paper analyses the geometric aspect of Soma Delaunay's works on the basis of design elements and principles. Geometric pattern is one of the distinct features of early 20th century avant-garde works. The significance of its pattern and colour comes from the fact that it has not only influenced the contemporary fine art but also offered the basic principle of modern costume design. In 1925 she was designing clothes which could be worn today without appearing old-fashioned. She foresaw the future trends in fashion and interior decoration, One might claim she belongs to the avant-garde even today and no less astonishing a phenomenon than she was in 1925. Soma Delaunay's art was one of the first expressions of abstract painting and her "simultaneous contrasts"are among the earliest example of the aesthete. In Delaunay's geometric abstraction it is found that the technique of"simultaneous contrasts" is exploited almost without exception. colour as well as collage was the favourite technique Delnaunay used in creating a distinct simultaneity, Many "inobjective" paintings as she herself called unite the rigour of simple geometric forms with an inner life and poetry which emanate from the richness of the colour, the musicality of the rhythm, the vibrant breadth of the execution.rant breadth of the execution.

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A Study on the Formative Relationship of between Artistic Eye-Makeup and Clothing - Focus on Fashion Magazine From the 2000's to 2010 - (조형적 측면에서 본 예술로서의 아이메이크업과 의복과의 상관성 연구 - 2000년부터 2010년까지 패션잡지를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Eun-Sil
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.3
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    • pp.120-136
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    • 2012
  • The purposes of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design by focusing on the period from 2000 to 2010 and to find out the development direction of the next makeup design. This study considered formative theory to analyze the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design of $Marian$ $L.$ $Davis$ and $Marilyn$ $R.$ $Delong's$ theory, and analyzed the formative relationship between artistic eye-makeup and clothes design in an aspect of line and form, color and material, The results are as follows: First, the shapes of the artistic eye-makeup such as tear drops, and rectangular paisleys were similar with the form of clothes such as the hourglass, cylinders and mix-types. Second, monotonic color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination that induced complex contrast coordination were apparent as well. Third, the objects of the artistic eye-makeup such as glitter papers, spangles and beads had similar features as the material of clothes such as silk and spangle, and contrast was partially used like colors. The results suggest that artistic eye-makeup and clothes have an organic relationship, and artistic eye-makeup is changed with formative elements of clothes.

A Study on the Ugliness Images Expressed in Modern Make-up -Focused on the Color Expressions- (현대 메이크업에 표현된 추 이미지에 관한 연구 -색채 표현을 중심으로-)

  • 변영희;채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.5
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    • pp.27-39
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    • 2004
  • Since around 1990. some experimental and shocking ugliness images have been expressed in Fashion and Make-up as well as Fine arts. The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of ugliness images expressed in Modern Make-up from 1995 to 2003, especially focusing on color, and to enlarge the expressions through formative elements and to anticipate the prospect of Make-up in the future. Ugliness is the most negative aesthetic value which is lack of beauty. The 20 century art trends representing the ugly shape have been distorted or deformed or destroyed and extremely exaggerated with yellow, red, black, blue, white, green. The image and color of ugliness can be summarized as historical, avant-garde, decadence, de-constructive, humorous, futuristic trend and Most of colors are the achromatic ones like black, white, dark gray and red. blue, dark brown and so on. These colors cause some negative attributes such as fear. anger, death, devil, Pain, bad, ill omen, sorrow, despair and the like. At the turning Point in 21C are to be extended the range of color according to the experimental attempts such as informal, collage, graphic and the forth. Lastly, The characteristics of ugliness images expressed in the color of Modern Make-up have been analyzed into formlessness and inaccuracy and deformation by Karl Rosenkranz's theory.