• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.241-260
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• 1995

The Maori's traditional clothing materials, basic forms of dress, and the pattern and technique of tatoo were examined in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of the Maori. The research method employed was the analysis of written materials. And a fild-trip was also made for the study. The study was limitted to the traditional culture of body adornment of the Maori including the clothing which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day, and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) By far the most widely used fiber for Maori clothing is abtained from what is commonly called New Zealand Flax. The fiber of kiekie(Freycinetia baueriana) and cabbage trees(Cordyline spp.) may also be used. The strong, long-lasting fiber of toi(cordyline indivisa) is used for a prestige warrior's cloak. Flat strips of ti kauka(Cordyline australi) are also used as thatch on rain cloaks. (2) Regardless of technique used, Maori weaving is always worked horizontally from left to right. Traditionally the work was suspended between two upright turuturu or weaving sticks. As the work progressed a second pair of uprights was used to keep the work off the ground. These uprights were moved forward as required. Because the weaver sat on the ground, the working edge was kept at a height that was comfortable to reach. No weaving tools are used, the wefts(aho) being manipulated by the fingers. The two main Maori weaving techniques are whatu aho patahi(single-pair twining) and whatu aho rua(double-pair twining). (3) The Maori wore two basic garments - a waist met and a cloak. The cloth of commoners were of plain manufacture, while those of people of rank were superior, sometimes being decorated with feather or dyed tags and decorated borders. Children ran more-or-less naked until puberty, being dressed only for special events. Some working dress consisted of nothing more than belts with leaves thrust under them. Chiefs and commoners usually went barefoot, using rough sandals on journeys over rough country (4) The adornment of men and women of rank was an important matter of tribal concern as it was in chiefly persons that prestige of the group was centred, The durable items of Maori persons adornment were either worn or carried. Ornaments of various kinds were draped about the neck or suspended from pierced earlobes. Combs decorated the head. Personal decorations not only enhanced the appearance of men and women, but many had protective magical function. The most evident personal ornament was the hei-tiki made of jade or other material. Maori weapons were treasured by their owners. They served on bottle and were also personal regalia. A man of rank was not fully dressed without a weapon in hand. Also weapons were essential to effective oratory. (5) No man or woman of rank went without some tattoo adornment except in extremely rare instances when a person was too sacred to have any blood shed. The untattooed were marked as beeing commoners of no social standing. This indelible mark of rank was begun, with appropriate rite and ritual, at puberty. And tattoo marked the person as being of a marriageable age. Maori tattoo was unlike most traditional tattoo in that its main line were 'engraved' on the face with deep cuts made by miniature bone chisels. The fill-in areas were not tattooed with cuts but with the multiple pricks of small bone 'combs' that only lightly penetrated the skin surface. The instrument of tattoo consisted of small pots of pumice or wood into which was placed a wetted black pigment made from burnt kauri gum, burnt vegetable caterpillars or other sooty materials. A bird bone chisel or comb set at right angles on a short wooden handle was dipped into the gigment, that a rod or stick was used to tap head of this miniature adze, causing penetration of the skin surface. Black pigment lodged under the skin took on a bluish tinge. A full made facial tattoo consisted of major spirals with smaller spirals on each side of the nose and sweeping curved lines radiating out from between the brows over the forehead and from the nose to the chin. The major patterns were cut deep, while the secondary koru patterns were lightly pricked into the skin.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics and detergency of natural surfactants for the cleaning of excavated fabrics. For this purpose, SDS, a synthetic surfactant, was selected as the control, and five types of natural surfactants, namely, LES, apple wash, tea saponin, cornacopa, and coco betaine were selected. The structures of the surfactants were confirmed by FT-IR spectroscopy analysis, and the characteristics of the surfactants were determined by measuring the pH and surface tension. In addition, detergency testing was carried out on four artificially soiled fabrics and fragments of excavated fabrics. From the results, apple wash, tea saponin, and cornacopa were found to be as good as SDS in terms of detergency in the cleaning of artificially soiled fabrics, and the detergency of tea saponin and coco betaine was found to be good for cleaning excavated fabrics. Therefore, considering the safety and detergency of detergents, among natural surfactants, tea saponin is found to be most suitable for the cleaning of excavated fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.221-245
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• 1991

The purpose of the study is to search for the existene mode of the modern cosmetology by not only understanding generally but also looking into the fundamental mental base and the aesthetic senses reflected in the literatuers and remans concerned with the traditional Korean cosmetology from anient times to modern times (1910). What are characteritic of in the systemetic study are summarized as follows : Chapter I The purposes and methods are systematized and the scop of study is specified. Chapter II The definition of cosmetology and osmetic indicates that the traditional cosmetology is a sort of whole deoration with costume. Chapter III It can hypothesized that since the Koreans were the northern nomadic tribe, in the beginning the cosmetology might have had a practical usage to protect themselves from the cold weather, and then gradually become to have a decoration meaning, and finally, with the development of various social culture, undergone the transition reflecting some characteristic of each era. Chapter IV While the female cosmetology had been much likely to accomodate the spirit of the times under the male, most of the male cosmetology had been done as a means to exhibit his social position, the tendency which had been prominent in the Yi dynasty. Chapter V Sinece beauty kits which were made of raw materials had been selg-supplying only to meet the small demand, their size were relatively small and had been given a menaing of a luchy omen or exorcism. Chapter VI Buddhism introduced bathing and incense, Confucianistic view of womanhood differentiated the cosmetology between Kissang and daughters of respectable citizens, and thin make-up was recomended. In addition, there many thoughts to have influence on the traditional cosmetology culture : body-and-soul unity, exorcism, naturalism, and short-lived beauty. Chapter VII Since the on-going movement of makeing use of the traditional cosmetic materials in order to apply to modern cosmetic may be a king of counter-vertical cultural phenomena to incorporate our own tradition with the modern cosmetology culture efficiently, the hope is that the findings of the study may contribute to the said efforts. In short, the study on the traditional cosmetology culture may be heloful in Looking into the existence of the modern cosmetology through its clarification of the nature of the traditional cosmetology culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.138-150
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• 2005

Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.1-11
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• 2006

Che Guevara spearheading the Cuban Revolution was not only the icon as the revolutionary to the New-leftists of the 1960s advocating the ideology of Marxism but, as the cultural revolutionary, had a tremendous influence on the younger generation living in the digital age Che Guevara take on a figure of both the symbol of the Leftist but the romantic revolutionary because he had the external features such as black beret, red stars, military upper jackets and trousers, beard and pipe tobacco. In fact, the symbolic image of Che Guevara was made as the popular image by the avantgarde artists and political vanguard forces of the times under the necessity of Cuban government. Afterwards, the image of Che Guevara has been patronized in making people of aware of the resistant and revolutionary image to capital, power and the power of the media and symbolized as the resistant image to the American capital as well as the revolutionary guerrilla. And his image has continued to be reproduced and symbolized for the commercial and political purposes and as the enthusiastic image of youth culture. This can be seen as having been created as a new image by the popular culture formed by the development of the cyber culture and mass media in the cyberspace shaped by contemporary 'N' generations. The use of Che Guevara's symbolic image was made in the fashion field as well as in the cultural and artistic circles. The borrowing of the icon of Che Guevara represented in a fashion field is attributed to his free spirit, and it can be seen that fashion exists as the vehicle for representing both the symbol system and the sign system containing ideologies and texts as the communicator of resistance to the regime and to social issues. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the commercial iconization of Che Guevara in the 1990s by comparing the ideology of the symbol in the 1960s and the 1990s and inquire into the borrowing of his image by the fashion domain as well as the fashion worn by him by reference to domestic books and materials on the fashion site. Thereby, this study attempted to make clear that the borrowing of Che Guevara in the realm of fashion since the 1990s not only contained the meaningful interpretation as the symbolic code in the culture of young people living in a digital era but fashion performs an intervening role in the cultural phenomenon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes and developments that occurred as a result of the exchanges of gyeong-geum(經錦), a warp-faced compound weave of East Asia, and wie-geum(緯錦), a weft-faced compound weave of West Asia. In order to maximize the efficiency of this research, topics were narrowed down to the weaving skills and patterns, and the period was limited to the Tang dynasty. The systematic characteristics and differences of gyeong-geum and wie-geum were compared and contrasted through different works of literature. Then the excavated remains of geum-textiles were analyzed and the characteristics of the geum-textiles were defined in chronological order. The origin of wie-geum is traced back to the time when West Asia started to imitate the weaving style of the East Asian gyeong-geum. When combined with the weaving skills of the West Asian, gyeong-geum, which broke through the West and developed into the weft-faced compound twill silk, or samite. The exchange of geum-textiles took place as the techniques of gastric filament woven geum-textiles returned to the East. Along with the pearl roundel motifs of Sassanian Persia, mythical animals and western motifs of hunter patterns were used for the patterns of wie-geumin during the early Tang dynasty. This tendency is related to pa-sa-geum(波斯錦), ho-geum(胡錦), beon-geum(番錦) according to the recorded literature. The 8th and 9th century are periods when the West Asian Persian style was abandoned and the East Asian style, samite, was established. Not only did S twist silk threads replace Z twists, but also the repetition of patterns unfolded along with the weft and the warp. As this tendency was strengthened after the 9th century, the expression of patterns became more vividly colorful and showed both elements of naturalism and realism. The characteristics of the Bosangwha(寶相花) pattern in the Tang period were established with the rampantly repeated rosettes with birds often holding auspicious branches, that fly amid floral compositions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.12
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• pp.257-269
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• 2000

예술작품은 의상디자인에 영감 혹은 영향을 줌으로써 상업적 의상으로 재생산된다. 오늘날까지도 60년대의 많은 팝 아티스트 작품들이 그대로 T셔츠 등에 프린트되는 것을 쉽게 볼 수 있다. 이러한 직접적 영향에는 자주 맹목적 표절이라는 논란을 불러 일으켰으나 긍정적이든 부정적이든 예술작품과 의상 디자인은 20세기초부터 밀접한 관계를 가져왔다. Sonia Delaunay는 예술을 대중과 결합시키는 가장 좋은 방법은 의상을 통해서라고 생각하였다. 그녀는 "만일 예술작품을 생활 속에 들어가게 하려면 그건 여성들 자신이 입고 다니는 방법뿐이다". 라고 말하였다. 결국 이러한 예술의 대중화에 대한 이론은 60년대에 와서 팝 아트 패션의 출현으로 그 결실을 보게 된다. 상류층을 대상으로 한 의상이 대중화되는 과정에서 60년대 경제호황으로 인한 젊은이들의 소비자층 형성과 미술양식에서의 팝아트의 출현은 자연스러운 시대적 조류로 나타났다. 이러한 상황은 팝 아트가 이 시대의 미술 양식에 혁신적일 뿐 아니라, 사회 전반에 팝 아트의 특성(소비 문화적, 대중 문화적, 재현적, 통속적, 기계적, 획일적)을 유행시키고, 대중에게 순수 예술과 복식에 참여 할 수 있는 기회를 부여했다고 볼 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 가장 혁명적이고도 대중적이라고 할 수 있는 팝 아트 이미지의 작품 제작과 분석을 통하여 현재 논의되고 있는 전시회나 패션쇼에서만 볼 수 있다는 다소 아방가르드 적인 의상 작품들의 대중화 방안에 대한 해결책을 모색하고자 하였다. 실제 의상 디자인 창작에 초점을 맞추었으며, 제작을 위해서 팝 아트에서 주요 소재로 삼았고 대중적 이미지의 심볼이라고도 할 수 있는 Coca Cola label을 표현 모티브로 삼아 개성적이고도 독창적인 의상 디자인을 한 후 분석하였다. 또한 독특한 의상 표현의 개발을 위하여 표현 기법으로는 현대 미술에서 새로운 재료와 여러 가지 재료를 화면에 도입시키는 표현 방법으로서 사용된 콜라주 기법을 사용하였다. 본 연구를 통하여 의상 창작에 있어 조형예술과 연결하여 대중적인 이미지를 도입함으로써 착용자가 예술에 대한 친근하고 익숙한 느낌을 갖게 하며, 예술과 상품 그 자체에 대한 상업적 홍보 목적으로도 사용할 수 있으며, 대중적인 이미지를 표현함에 있어 콜라주 기법은 염색 기법을 사용하지 않고서도 작가가 원하는 표현 효과를 낼 수 있다는 측면을 발견할 수 있었다. 즉 사용된 대중적 상표 이미지는 주인에서 흔히 볼 수 있는 현대 도시의 인공적 환경들로, 의상을 독특하고 개성 있게 표현할 수 있는 모티브의 역할을 하면서 또한 그 예가 무한하여 다양한 디자인 창출의 가능성을 갖고 있으며, 의상을 통해 예술과 대중을 융합시켰다는 예술의 대중화, 민주화라는 중요한 역할을 하였다. 전시회나 패션쇼에서 만 볼 수 있는 예술적 성격을 띠는 아방가르드 작품의 대중 확산 방법으로 제시될 수 있는 이상적인 방법으로는 예술성이 짙은 도저히 입을 수 없다고 생각되어지는 아방가르드한 의상을 일반 대중 브랜드들이 단순한 모방이 아닌 새로운 패러디 작업으로 일반화시켜 상업성을 띤 의상으로 재조정되어 여성들의 몸에 걸치게 하는 것이다. 이와 같은 순환으로써, 조형예술 작품은 의상 디자인 참작에 영향, 영감을 주면서 여러 번의 형태 변화를 거치는 패러디를 통해 각 계층의 누구나가 좋아하고 접할 수 있는 또 다른 창조를 맞아 대중의 손까지 갈 수 있는 것이다.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.299-308
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• 2015

Aim of this study is to identify dyestuff of the Dallryeong(official's robe in Joseon Dynasty, 16th century) excavated from Yuryang-dong, Cheonan, in 1996. For this purpose, extracted dyestuffs from Dallryeong fabric and from natural dyestuffs for red color(safflower, Sapanwood, Madder) which are presumed to have been used in the Dallryeong, are analyzed and compared by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). As a result, HPLC chromatogram of extracts of the Dallryeong's dyestuff and safflower are showed a peak at 17.5 minutes. The UV/Vis spectra of the samples are showed the maximum absorption wavelength at 519nm. This result is identical with the analysis of the previous studies on red dyestuff of safflower. In addition, the analysis of Mass Spectrometry(MS) showed the identical result of the peak with m/z 910. Following these results, excavated pink Dallryeong were considered to have been dyed with safflower.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.43-54
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• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.