• Title/Summary/Keyword: 복고풍

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밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지 연구 - 1990년대 여성복을 중심으로 -

  • 이화정;채금석
    • Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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    • 2001.04a
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    • pp.41-41
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    • 2001
  • 본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

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A Study on Retro-look Fashion Appeared in 1990′s -With Special Reference to The Revival of 1960′s Mode- (1990년대에 패션의 복고풍에 관한 고찰 -1960년대 Mode의 재현을 중심으로-)

  • 류숙희;박종희
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.247-263
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    • 1996
  • This study focuses on a comparative study of 1960s'retro look mode in terms of the past and present in order to find out in detail how it in the past is readjusted after it was appeared in the present. For such a study, in the first place the contents of the dress and its ornament of a retro-look fashion was refined through some literature, and then, some works of the dress and its ornament of a retro-look fashion was refinded through some literature, and then, some works of eh dress and its ornament revived in 1960's mode were analysed, based on some fashion magazines at home and abroad like Bazaar, Fashion etc News in 1990s. After 1960s'retro-look mode which reappeared in 1990s was researched in terms of silhouette, detail, texture, color, and pattern, differences between those tow periods of 1960s and 1990s and their causes are summarized as follows: 1. In the aspect of silhouette, it appears that the silhouette in 1960s is that of somewhat stiff, charming image in which Body is excluded and the silhouette in 1990s is that of an soft, feminie image in which Body is emphasized. It was understood that the cause of such a delicate difference comes from the influences of the change in aesthetic senses or awareness, naturalism and neo-feminism. 2. In the aspect of detail, it appears that the detail in 1990s is of an attempt to express in diverse images, compared to that in 1960s, and new images are created new image in 1990s by means of presenting entirely ill-matched images. The major cause of that is because of Antistandard fashion. 3. In the aspect of textures, it appears that a great feature is that the texture in 1990s is of that introduced, being changed in natural and high-class looks, compared to that of 1960s. It was reviewed that the major cause of this is because of a result from the influence of naturalism and the technical growth in various fields which has brought the development of dress material. 4. In the aspect of color, it appears that the color in 1990s is of an image of primary color which is far more sensual and feminie than that of 1960s. It was studied that the major cause of ti comes from the influence of neo-feminism, etc. 5. In the aspect of pattern, it appears that the pattern in 1990s is of that of symbolism, transposition, and the ecletic feature of various modes which appear more deeply than that of 1960s. It was studied that the major cause of such changes is because of a trend of postmodernism which has brought the change of the spiritual structure different from that in the age of modernism. In conclusion, it was understood that the retro-look fashion is of an expression technic of dress and its ornament in that o dress in the pst is simply imitate, but new reconstitution is done by using the elements in the past. at the same time, ti was clarified that even though the elements in the past are revived as they were, dress and its ornament is governed by the social and cultural environments of he day, and with this proof it can be said that the fashion in each age is of a reflection of social phenomena of that age.

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Analysis of New Eyewear Product Trends of 2008 (2008년 안경 신상품 트렌드 분석)

  • Jang, Jun-Young;Roh, Kwon-Chan
    • Journal of Korean Ophthalmic Optics Society
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    • v.14 no.3
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    • pp.1-5
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    • 2009
  • Purpose: The aim of this study is to grasp domestic eyewear trends in 2008 with analyzing brands, types, materials, colors and styles of new eyewear products. Methods: Examined all new eyewear products which were on three magazines related with eyewear published in Korea; "안경계", "Eye 11" and "THE AXIS". Results: There are 103 companies, 182 brands in 3 magazines related eyewear published in 2008. There are 77 domestic brands and 105 imported brands, and there are 522 eyeglasses and 126 sunglasses. Material of eyeglasses make up 37.93% of combination frames, 33.14% of metal frames and 28.93% of plastic frames and material of sunglasses make up 50.79% of plastic frames, 30.95% of combination frames and 18.25% of metal frames. From a style point of view, there are lots of retro and casual styles which one can express one's individuality with. In terms of colors, basic colors such as black and gray are mainstream and pastel tones and vivid tones are mainly used as the point color. Conclusions: The results of analyzing new eyewear products show that many light and feeling good products such as thin plate frames, TR frames and thin plate-TR combination frames were released in case of domestic eyewear products. In case of imports, there are lots of simple Ti frames and acetate frames which were variety patterns and colors.

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A Study on the Empathy of the Teenage Audience at the Cheong Kong Festival - Focusing on the 3rd Performing Arts Festival for Youth - (청공축제의 청소년 관객 공감 양상 연구 - '제3회 청소년을 위한 공연예술축제'를 중심으로)

  • Oh, Pan-Jin
    • (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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    • no.39
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    • pp.609-635
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    • 2019
  • This study analyzed five official entries in the 3rd Cheong Kong Festival contest and analyzed the patterns of teen audience empathy. The tools used for this analysis were 'characters, acting, background and theme'. Firstly, characters were mostly teenagers and out-of-school teenagers, but there were other performances that focused on the relationship between teenagers and adults or focused on the youth, which the teen audience preferred. And they preferred realism acting to emotional acting and preferred musical acting to realism acting. In addition, the background of the events covered in the performance was evaluated to be like this: the closer the audience was to the youth, the higher the audience sympathized with the performance, and the closer the subject matter was to the youth's interest, the more positive it received. In summing up the opinions of the youth evaluation team, the first audience-participating Sinpa Theater, "Mr. X" was evaluated to expand the scope of teenagers to 20s and to show the negative and heavy reality as fun and beneficial one. Secondly, when it comes to non-prejudiced youth theatre "The Turtle", which have a high level of empathy, it was evaluated to shape the prejudice about others through the symbol of 'bag'. Thirdly, regarding the time-traveling retro-style youth theatre of the 'a jam-packed Bus', it was evaluated to be a well-made retro-style youth theatre. Regarding the 'Lunar Eclipse', which showed the aesthetic of the relationship, scenes were evaluated to be built with omission and restraint. Regarding "B Officer on and Love Letter", it was evaluated to be adapted to a musical from Hyun Jingun's novel, which was released 100 years ago. Lastly, the performance desired by the youth evaluation team was a performance with a high level of 'sympathy' and 'education'. In other words, they preferred performances that empathize with the emotions and thoughts of teenagers, and on the other hand, they wanted to see performances that allowed them to see the world broadly outside their own worlds. If youth theater is created by referring to the evaluation of youth as it is in this study, the audience will be more sympathetic to performances.

A Study on Partially Applied Color Image in Black and White Moving Imagery (흑백영상의 부분 색채화에 관한 연구)

  • Yeo, Myoung;Kim, Ji-Hong
    • Proceedings of the Korea Contents Association Conference
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    • 2006.11a
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    • pp.322-326
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    • 2006
  • Though human being has ability to percept a full colored vision, the technology of early photography only can produce black and white images. For cinema filming imagery also captured mono tone with black and white, until developed a color film technology. The desire for presenting color imagery and the technique for producing film and color ink, photography and print utilize color on it with noticeable color impact to viewers. It, however, abusing fun colors image each and every printed and filmed imagery, the freshness of eye catching power diminished now. On contrast, color becomes black and white or partially used for making discrepancy among full colored images. This image detected commercial and music video, and it spread to film. To use those bleached color images is for evoking a nostalgia and a visual differentiation. Especially, it can be provocative images brought to audience with that. such as "Anycall", "Dimchae" for CF, and "Schindler's list," and "Sin city" for movie. It is hard to investigate on the color studies for partially used images. Therefore, this study is to research that through CF and film, base on it, to investigate the application for this image. To collect data from survey, it will be established a basic concept for understanding the partial color applying.

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