• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.12 no.6 s.53
• /
• pp.908-917
• /
• 2004

In the previous article, the effect of aluminum compounds on the mordanting of the Caesalpinia sappan L. dyeing was studied. According to the type of the compound, the effect on the dyeing was found to be different even if $Al^{3+}$ ion was present in the molecular structure of the compound. It was postulated that there would be complex effects other than the effects based on the purified Al compounds only, since there are some amount of compounds hard to neglect. In order to reproduce the traditional dyeing practice, rice straw ash solutions were prepared as mordanting agents. The pH values of the solution baths were 4, 5, 6, 9, and 11 in order to investigate the pH effect on the color development by adding appropriate amount of Schizandra chinensis extract solution. The inherent dyeing properties were evaluated by the analysis of color difference, air permeability, the characteristics developed by pre-mordanting, post-mordanting, or simultaneous mordanting methods.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.42 no.7
• /
• pp.63-72
• /
• 2004

This study discussed the dyeing of wool and cotton fabrics with Betel Palm Tree White woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics purchased from HATH (Korea Apparel Testing ＆ Research Institute) were used as experimental fabrics. Using dyeing powder extracted from dyeing material, various temperatures, dyeing times, and pH were used in the dyeing process. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu, and Sn were used as mordant and the absorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The optimum condition for pre-mordanting dyeing was dye concentration of 25% (o.w.f) and mordant concentration of 0.5$^{\circ}$∼1%. Woolen fabric showed an increase of absorption and the maximum absorption was achieved at weak acidity. According to the mordanting methods, woolen fabrics and cotton fabrics were treated with various mordanting agents, a mordant rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$, for 30 minutes and dyed with a dyeing material concentration of 25% (o.w.f), at a rate of 1:100, at 60$^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. The best dyeing effect w3s achieved at the temperature of 60$^{\circ}C$ for cotton and 80$^{\circ}C$ for wool fabrics. The light fastness of cotton and wool fabrics was low and particularly the fastness to perspiration was decreased with Fe mordanting. I concluded that pre-mordanting method was better than post-mordanting method for cotton and woolen fabrics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.5 s.58
• /
• pp.686-698
• /
• 2005

In this study, simultaneous mordanting method of dyeing in the Caesalpinia sappan dye liquor mixed with the rice straw ash solution was employed. The dyeing effects were compared and reviewed according to the changes of dyeing mechanisms of pre-mordanting and simultaneous mordanting using ash solutions. By the direct addition of the ash solution, the pH of the liquor was abruptly changed. In the case of maintaining the pH value of the ash solution at about 7 or 8, compared to the pre-mordanting, $a^{*}$ values increased and $b^{*}$ values decreased. As a result, it is highly desirable in terms of selective emphasis on the reddish hue. The color development, differentiated from that obtainable by the dyeing of chitosan pre-treated fabric, was obtained due to the effect of the water soluble chitosan component on the dyeing mechanism.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.119-129
• /
• 2020

Unlike synthetic dyes, natural dyes do not affect the human body or create atmosphere pollution that are also mothproof, antibiotic and sterilized. This study examined the changes in dye adsorption properties according to mordant types and mordanting method to qualify trends using sage and rosemary extracts. Dyeability of sage extract is often similar to rosemary extract regardless of dyeing conditions. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were also compared. Dyed fabric showed a yellowish color and the dyeing affinity was somewhat good with rosemary extract. The surface color of the dyed fabrics was darkened by mordant treatment. The K/S value of herb colorants of protein fiber was higher than cellulose fiber. The concentration of mordant having the highest dyeing affinity was different from the mordant type. Regardless of the type of fiber, the K/S value of premordanting was the highest in mordanting method, and the K/S value of simultaneous mordanting indicated no noticeable mordant effect. The fastness of washing of silk fabric was reduced the most by mordant treatment. The lightfastness was reduced in Al mordant treatment regardless of the type of fiber. The lightfastness of wool increased somewhat by mordant treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.242-253
• /
• 2014

Morinda citrifolia, commercially known as Noni, is a tree that grows widely throughout the Pacific, and is recognized as one of the most significant sources of traditional medicines among Pacific Island societies. All parts of the plant have traditional and/or modern uses, including roots and bark(dyes, medicine), trunks(firewood, tools), and leaves and fruits(food, medicine). The bark and the roots of the tree contain red and yellow pigments respectively, which are both used in the manufacture of dyes. Dyes from Noni are being used traditionally, to color clothing and fabrics. In this study, mordanting effects on the dyeing properties of Noni root extract on silk fabrics were investigated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.2
• /
• pp.296-305
• /
• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.2 s.55
• /
• pp.248-254
• /
• 2005

In this study, wool fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the case of wool fabric specimen, regardless of the type of mordanting agents, peak dye-uptake amount was obtained at the acidic region, pH 4, and above pH 6, the dye-uptake amount decreased remarkably. Differing from the cotton fabric case, the dyed wool fabric specimen exhibited red shade even in the case of non-mordanting, at the region of pH values of 4 and 5. It is presumed that in the acidic dye bath the effect of cationic amine group present in the structure of wool fiber molecules took place. The amount of color difference, among the mordanting agents, due to the increase of pH value, was highest for the Fe mordanting case. It seems, therefore, that the Fe mordanting is affected most by the pH value.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
• /
• v.34 no.3
• /
• pp.90-98
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to estimate natural dyeing properties of Korean traditional paper (Hanji). Korean traditional paper, which made from bleached bast fiber pulp of Broussonetia kazinoki was used as base paper. As dyestuffs, hot water extractives of Phellodendron amurense bark, Rosa multiflora leaf and stalk, and Rubia cordifolia root and methanol extractives of Lithospermum erytrorhizon root were used. $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ and $Fe(OH)(CH_3COO)_2$ 0.5% solution were used as mordant. Soybean juice (10%), chitosan (0.1%), and skim milk (2%) solutions were used as auxiliary dyeing agents. Accelerated aging treatments of natural dyed Korean traditional papers were undergone at following conditions: exposure temperature, $80^{\circ}C$ relative humidity, 60%; wavelength, 340 nm; UV irradiance, $0.67W/m^2/nm$ exposure time, 24, 48, and 72 hours. Colors, color difference, and color fastness were examined for estimation of natural dyeing characteristics. The auxiliary dyeing agents treated Korean traditional papers were more superior the dyeing effectiveness about dyestuffs than untreated Korean traditional papers. The dyeing effectiveness of soybean juice treated Korean traditional paper was superior to the others. The color fastness of Korean traditional paper, which was dyed with Rubia cordifolia root extractives, was most inferior to the others.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.527-533
• /
• 2017

As the clothing industry has advanced, dyeing technologies using various dyes have been developed. In recent years, interest in natural pigments has been increasing because of the negative impact of synthetic pigment on human health; therefore, development and application of microbial pigments is demanded. In this study, the dyeing effects on multifiber fabrics and biological activity were assessed using violet natural pigment from the marine bacterium, Microbulbifer sp. PPB12. The violet pigment produced by cultivation of Microbulbifer sp. PPB12 using Marine broth 2216 for 3 days was extracted using ethanol. Once dissolved in 20% ethanol, the violet pigment could be used to dye bleached cotton, diacetate, and especially polyamide. The optimal temperature, time, pH, and bath ratio under the dyeing conditions were $80^{\circ}C-90^{\circ}C$, more than 1 hour, pH 4-6, and 1:25, respectively. The mordant treatment was more suitable for color expression when $Na_2SO_4$ was used after 10 minutes of dyeing, but no significant difference was observed from untreated samples. The violet pigment also showed antibacterial activity against B. subtilis. The results of the present study indicate that the marine bacterial pigment could be an alternative for textile dyeing as a natural dye with antibacterial activity.

• KSBB Journal
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.271-277
• /
• 2007

Natural pigments have many applications like colouring agent, pigments, food additives, and antiseptics. At present, instead of synthetic pigments that have contributed to the development of industry, many kinds of natural pigments have been developed. The constituents of gardenia fruits, Gardenia jasminoides ELLIS, are traditionally known as herb medicine and natural dyes/pigments due to the customer is needs. The fruits produce yellow carotenoid pigments and iridoid compounds. The two main components in the yellow pigments are called crocin and crocetin. The extraction mode of yellow pigment from Gardenia is depended upon the extraction time, temperature, and volume of solvent. Red pigments or blue pigments formed from geniposide and amino acids have been reported a lot. Geniposide, the principal iridoid glucoside contained in gardenia fruit, was hydrolyzed to genipinic acid or genipin as a precursor for the pigment by enzymatic or chemical reaction. These red or blue pigments prepared with materials hydrolyzed of geniposide and amino acid and had properties governed by the electrostatic character of the amino acid. The pigments showed good stability to heat and pH but were gradually bleached by light while the other natural pigments are unstable in light, heat, acid, and base solution. The safety of the pigments was considered to be of little virulences in comparison to synthetic pigments.