• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.294-306
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is a men's dress shirt pattern by somatotype for mass customization system that is rising to the surface as a new production system. Subjects were 65 men aged from 25 to 44 for making research pattern and 9 men for wearing test. The dress shirt went through the secondary wearing test and sensory evaluation to verify the propriety of the research pattern. The results were as follows: For making research dress shirts pattern used the body parts size that were height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference. The waist back length, the waist to hip length and the pattern length of were set by the calculation formula based on the height. The ease of 16cm for the chest circumference and A type had the ease of 10cm for the waist circumference, Y type had the ease of 8cm and B type had 12cm. Through the wearing test, the research pattern showed significant difference from the comparative patterns so additional two items of the length between biacromion and waist circumference were added to the items used in the comparative patterns through which satisfactory results were obtained. In the secondary wearing test for the dress shirt, all the items, except for the front centerline, were evaluated excellent. As a result of evaluating by the figure type, the normal type was evaluated best in all the items.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.679-689
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing & fit of ready-made and online custom dress shirts by surveying middle-aged men aged 40-54 years in order to collect information necessary for making good fit dress shirts. Also, we analyzed whether there were significant differences in the actual wearing of dress shirts according to the stature of middle-aged men. The stature was classified according to KS K 0050 as $R(157{\leq}x<170)$ and $T(170{\leq}x<182)$. The 23 questionnaire items were divided into three categories: 'General purchasing behavior and wearing', 'Fit satisfaction of ready-made dress shirts' and 'Wearing and fit satisfaction of online custom dress shirts'. Through the results of the study, we could understand the actual wearing condition of ready-made and online custom dress shirts. Also, differences in stature groups were found. The significant differences according to the stature groups were found in the interest in fashion, the purchase criteria, the limitation of the shirt size selection due to stature and body shape, shirt size satisfaction, repair experience, dissatisfaction with purchase and the experience of purchasing online custom dress shirts. Suggestions should be made to improve dissatisfaction with stature groups in the ready-made dress shirts. In addition, the study confirmed the consumer demand for the online custom dress shirts. In order to activate the online custom market, the online custom dress shirts company needs to reduce consumer dissatisfaction and improve size suitability.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.983-991
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to provide basic reference data for the development of slim-fit dress shirts patterns for a variety of body somatotypes. For this study, a survey was conducted on the actual product conditions of slim-fit dress shirts of domestic brands(Actual wearing and purchasing conditions, fit, design preferences). The survey was conducted on 135 men in their 20s~30s. PASW Statistics 18 was used for data analysis. The result of this study are as follows : Analysis of the actual wearing conditions of dress shirts indicates that consumers own an average of 1~2 classic-fit shirts and 1~4 slim-fit shirts. These are normally worn once or twice a week, and purchased mainly at department stores, agencies, direct sales markets or outlets. With respect to the purchasing factors, price and style were the main priorities. Surveyed consumers had the greatest preference for designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, a semi-wide collar and the color white. By classifying the surveyed by somatotype, Type B preferred designs darted on both front and back, Type A preferred designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, while Type Y preferred designs non-darted on both front and back. All somatotypes displayed a preference for semi-wide collars and the color white.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.48-59
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• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

• 대한인간공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한인간공학회 1993년도 추계학술대회논문집
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• pp.220-220
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• 1993

체형은 남녀에 따라, 연령에 따라, 또 인종이나 시대에 따라 현저한 차이를 나타낸다. 특히, 인체의 목부위,허리둘레 등 연령에 따라 그 형태의 특징이 크게 변화해가는 부위들이 있으며, 이들 부위별 형태변화에 대한 연구는 전반적 체형연구와 함께 그 중요성이 크게 대두되어지고 있다. 이에 본연구에서는, 남성복의 드레스셔츠 설계에 가장 중요한 이체 부위인 목부위를 중심으로 연령 별 형태 변화를 측정하고자 하였으며, 측정은 슬라이딩 게이지법을 이용하여 목.어깨부위의 수직. 수평단면을 채취하였다. 또한 피험자를 20대 청년층, 40대 중년층, 60대 노년층의 세집단을 대상 으로 하므로서 목부위 단면형태에 대한 연령별 변화의 범위를 추측, 가령에 따른 변화의 상태를 생체학적으로 해석하고자 하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.182-187
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• 1999

The study was conducted on the change of value of physical properties, mechanical properties, appearance of seams as repeated washing and drying with 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 20 times. Commercial cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% dress shirts were used to investigate drying characteristics and physical properties and compare of each materials after repeated drying. The mechanical properties like tensile, shear, surface, compression, thickness and weight were measured by the KES-FB system.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.259-263
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• 1999

This study was carried out to investigate the changes of thermal properties such as warmth retaining and contact warm/cool feeling of commercial dress shirts by repeated washing and drying by sun and dryer. Three kinds of fabrics such as cotton 100%, cotton/polyester 80/20% and polyester 100% were repeatedly washed and dried, and then used as specimen. Thermo Labo II type was employed to measure the thermal properties. At the same time, structural properties such as thickness, weight, bulk density, porosity, moisture vapor permeability and air permeability were analysed.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• 복식
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• 제60권5호
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• pp.106-116
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to investigate the image evaluation of chinese female college students according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 12 color pictures, in which the hue(red, blue), tone(lt-shirt/dk-tie, dk-shirt/lt-tie), and necktie width(narrow, medium, width) were manipulated. The 7-point scale was used for evaluation of image. The subjects of this research were 120 chinese female college students living in Shandong, China. The investigation was carried out at April-May 2009. The data were analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were ANOVA and Duncan-test. The results of this study were as follows.; The analyses of image according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width revealed that the concerned factors are four characteristic dimensions of ability-elegance, youth-attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. Hue showed an independent effect on ability-elegance, appeal, and warmness. Tone showed an independent effect on appeal and warmness. Necktie width showed an independent effect on appeal. In addition, interaction effects of hue and tone on ability-elegance were found. Interaction effects of hue and necktie width on appeal were found. Interaction effects of tone and necktie width on youth-attractiveness were found.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권1호
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.