• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.299-310
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop wool knitted Jacket pattern suited for Middle-aged women's body shape. The usable data of first and second wearing test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and one way- ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B were better than the rest of them. 2. It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket B with milano were better than the rest of them. Therefore, it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. 3. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it is necessary that knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance such as a woven jacket.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.596-605
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• 2013

This study investigates the wearing trend and purchase facts for adult females in their 20s and 30s along with their fitting satisfaction for woven jackets and circular knitted jackets. A questionnaire survey on consumers investigated satisfaction with jackets according to clothing materials and repair trend after wearing. Subsequently, a preference for circular knitted jackets was shown higher than woven jackets. Females in their 20s preferred woven jackets than those in their 30s; however, the latter preferred circular knitted jackets than the former. For woven jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with size; however, for circular knitted jackets, they showed the highest satisfaction with fitting. In the question on their satisfaction by jacket part, satisfaction with circular knitted jackets was higher in all items except for bust measurement, bottom edge measurement, elbow circumference, shoulder width, and clothes length. Circular knitted jackets had lower repair rates than woven jackets and woven jackets had significant differences by age in satisfaction with back width. The research results indicate that females in their 20s and 30s who value fit preference and practicality will increasingly wear knit clothes. Therefore, we can address the fitting satisfaction requirement of females in their 20s and 30s by taking the clothing material properties of circular knitted clothes into consideration. In addition, further research is required on jacket patterns in consideration of clothing materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.10
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• pp.1632-1646
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• 2010

This article is an analysis of the fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types for 30's and 40's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point likert scale was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. The data were analyzed with t-test and ANOVA using statistical program SPSS 17.0. The results are as follow. 1. The real and virtual fit preference of the knitted jacket according to body types indicates that respondents preferred pattern 2 for body type N than the rest of the patterns; however, respondents preferred pattern 3 for body type A and H. 2. There were no significant differences between real and virtual fit preference. 3. It is necessary that the knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance like a woven jacket. The results show that the next generation of virtual try-on systems need the development of a minus clothing ease scale.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.8 s.145
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• pp.1068-1078
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to analyze the production process of 12 domestic companies that manufacture women's knitwear and the degree of satisfaction of the middle-anged women who purchase knitted Jacket. Three hundred questionnaires were distributed and a total of 276 usable data were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way- ANOVA test) by using SPSSWIN 10.1. It was found that the price satisfaction of knitted jacket was low because of imported yarn and production methods(i .e., 1inking, sewing, etc.). Therefore, it is necessary to develop that domestic yam and improve production methods. Another finding ot the study demonstrated that the size of knitted jacket was a little tight for the middle-aged women on the circumstance size(i.e., bust, waist, etc.) while majority of the respondents felt that the areas such as sleeve and shoulder seemed a little bit longer than their size. It should be designed in such that the physical characteristics of knitted materials are considered when pattern is made. Clothing companies should make an effort to effort more information about the knitted jacket and develop pattern suitable for the body shape of the middle-aged women.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.163-173
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• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.