• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.606-612
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• 2013

This paper investigates the physical properties of organic cotton staple yarns manufactured by ring and siro spinning methods as well as analyzes the physical properties of fabric specimens knitted with staple yarns made by these two methods. The breaking stress and evenness of organic ring staple yarns showed the same level for the Japanese specimens as the control yarns; in addition, the same coefficient for the friction of the manufactured yarns and Japanese specimens was also shown. These results makes it possible to manufacture organic staple ring yarns from organic cotton fibers. The tenacity and breaking strain of siro staple yarns were higher than ring staple yarns. The evenness and friction coefficient of siro staple yarns were lower than the ring staple yarns; in addition, hairiness and the number of siro staple yarns was significantly lower than the ring staple yarns. The dimensional stabilities of knitted fabrics by 20 Ne and 30 Ne siro staple yarns were superior to ring staple yarns. The color fastnesses of washing, perspiration and abrasion of knitted fabrics by two spinning methods showed the same level as the 4.5 grade; however, the light fastness of knitted fabric by siro staple yarns was superior to ring staple yarns. It was shown that the siro spinning method (using eco-friendly organic cotton fibers) was applicable to a high sensible knitted garment that overcame drawbacks of organic fibers related to shrinkable properties after washing and low color fastness to light.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.295-304
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• 2015

This paper investigated wear comfort property of heat storage knitted fabrics for high emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was prepared and various physical properties such as thermal, wicking and drying characteristics were measured. In addition, far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded PET was analysed and tactile hand property and dye affinity of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric were also studied in comparison with regular and other commercial heat storage PET knitted fabrics. It was observed that Zr imbedded amount in the yarn was 19.29% by ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission energy was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, emissivity was 0.906 at the range of wavelength $6{\sim}20{\mu}m$. It was found that maximum heat flow (Qmax) of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular PET one, which means ZrC imbedded PET have heat storage property. Drying property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was better than that of regular PET one due to heat by far-infrared emitted from ZrC in the core of filament. It revealed that wicking property of the ZrC imbedded fabric was not influenced by far-infrared emission, but affected by fibre physical properties. Tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not influenced by imbedding ZrC in the filament but affected preferably by structure of knitted fabric. Dye affinity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was less influenced by dyeing temperature and time than regular PET knitted one.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.15-24
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• 2020

We present a supervised learning method that estimates the simulation parameters required to simulate the fabric from the static drape shape of a given fabric sample. The static drape shape was inspired by Cusick's drape, which is used in the apparel industry to classify fabrics according to their mechanical properties. The input vector of the training model consists of the feature vector extracted from the static drape and the density value of a fabric specimen. The output vector consists of six simulation parameters that have a significant influence on deriving the corresponding drape result. To generate a plausible and unbiased training data set, we first collect simulation parameters for 400 knit fabrics and generate a Gaussian Mixed Model (GMM) generation model from them. Next, a large number of simulation parameters are randomly sampled from the GMM model, and cloth simulation is performed for each sampled simulation parameter to create a virtual static drape. The generated training data is fitted with a log-linear regression model. To evaluate our method, we check the accuracy of the training results with a test data set and compare the visual similarity of the simulated drapes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

This paper investigated far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage knitted fabrics for emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded heat storage PET was spun with high viscosity PET imbedded ZrC powder on the core part and low viscosity PET on the sheath part by conjugated spinning method. Ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission characteristics assessment of spun filament were carried out by EDS and FT-IR spectrometer. Two kinds of knitted fabrics were made using texturized ZrC imbedded PET for measuring thermal characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage PET. Zr peak was certified by EDS measurement and it was confirmed that content of Zr was 19.29%. Far-infrared analysis revealed that emission power at the range of wavelength, $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, and emissivity was 0.906. Heat storage analysis by KES-F7 system revealed that $Q_{max}$ of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular one, which means that ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric has heat storage property. Thermal conductivity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was higher than that of regular PET one which was caused by high thermal conductivity of Zr itself. Hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not inferior compared to regular PET knitted fabric, which preferably was found to be dependent on knit structure and surface property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.17-24
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• 2015

This study investigated heat generation characteristics of knitted and woven intelligent garments made of ZrC imbedded yarns through thermal manikin measurement. These emotional and intelligent thermal characteristics by thermal manikin measurement were analysed and compared with light/thermal radiation experimental results. Surface temperature of ZrC imbedded woven and knitted fabrics by light/thermal radiation measurement was $4^{\circ}C$ and $2^{\circ}C$ higher than that of regular PET control fabrics, respectively. Clo value as heat generation characteristics of ZrC imbedded woven and knitted garments with light exposure was 0.14 and 0.08 higher than that of regular PET control garments, respectively. These results were attributed to the far-infrared thermal radiation from ZrC imbedded in the core part of the intelligent bi-component filament, which was verified by far-infrared emissive power ranged between $6{\mu}m$ and $20{\mu}m$ through FT-IR experiment and by inclusion of Zr through EDS ingredient analysis. However, compressibility of ZrC imbedded woven fabric was lower than that of regular PET one, and bending rigidity was higher than that of regular one, which resulted in a little stiff tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded fabric. We found that ZrC imbedded intelligent woven and knitted fabrics were applicable to the intelligent garment as a heat generation textile material by thermal manikin measurement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.228-238
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• 1996

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of chacteristics of knit fabrics on the microclimate of the skin simulating system. To determine the effect of characteristics of knit fabrics, vapor state of sweat pulse was simulated in the closed system. Different contents of fibers such as cotton, wool and polyester with different yarn size and knit types were chosen for specimens. The changes of humidity and temperature of air layer in the simulated systems were measured. Buffering indices, $K_d$ and $\beta_r$, were determined by considering $\alpha_p, \DeltaP_{max}, t_{max}, and tan\beta$. Physical properties of knit fabrics such as thickness, porosity, air resistance and moisture vapor transport were measured. Results showed that vapor pressure of wool was lower than cotton or polyester This was attributed to the hydrophilicity of wool which absorbed moisture rather quickly and retained in the knit fabric. The time to decrease vapor pressure was faster for polyester than cotton or wool. As a result, $K_d$ was in the order of wool> polye, item> cotton. $\beta_r$ of wool was rower than cotton or polyester due to its lowers porosity and slower desorption rate. For the yarn size, $K_d$ was in the order of 80's> 60's> 30's; thinner and lighter yarn showed better water vapor transport property. For knit type, buffering capacity of single jersey was better than interlock knit fabric. Statistical analysis showed that the air permeability was the most influential factor far the water vapor transport properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.8
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• pp.968-981
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.