• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.254-260
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to grasp the actual condition toward the clothing of senior males' and perception of male's formal wear companies for silver market through a survey targeting senior males and clothing companies. The survey was conducted targeting 196 senior males and chief-patterners of 7 companies' 10 brands. The questionnaire distributed to senior males was consisted of 22 items regarding the perception and satisfaction on clothes. And 12 items concerning the perception of senior male clothing brands and the size system was developed for clothing companies. The results of the study are as follows. The study revealed that most senior males perceived that brand clothing for them was necessary. More than half of the respondents were not satisfied with ready-made clothes. And many senior males prefer ready-made clothing when they purchase their clothes. For these reasons, senior males apparel market might be promising. Currently, the perception of male's formal wear companies on the need of brand was high. However, considering that brand launching might be difficult to be realized soon I presume that size spectrum based on body size of senior males is necessary which reflect their physical characteristics and activities.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.31-46
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• 2018

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for outdoor wear production for active senior males, emerging as a new consumer bracket in the era of rapid aging. To this end, this study modified and complemented the patterns of outdoor jackets for active senior males based on existing outdoor jackets that received the most excellent evaluation. On the basis of the research outdoor wear wearing assessment results, this study confirmed those areas to be modified and proposed areas to be considered in manufacturing outdoor wear for this demographic. As a result of existing outdoor wear's wearing assessment, the jacket of brand B was shown to be the most excellent one. This study actually designed research outdoor wear patterns by modifying the problematic parts through the addition and subtraction of spare length or circumference in the sections where fit satisfaction was low by referring to the selected brands' patterns. The research outdoor wear was designed by referring to the preferred outdoor types and colors that were highlighted in the previous survey result of consumer wearing reality, based on the designs of the outdoor wear receiving the most excellent assessment in wearing assessment. Fabric that specially glued two-layered mesh that bonded the thin membrane of synthetic resin with polyester fabric was used as the material in this study. Wearing assessment was conducted by comparing the manufactured research outdoor wear and the existing outdoor wear selected as excellently assessed outdoor wear. Consequently, this study verified that the wearing fit of the research outdoor wear was more excellent in most items. This study proposed final patterns for outdoor jackets suitable for active senior males through the modification of several items that required improvements as per the wearing assessment of the research outdoor wear.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.151-161
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Men's Jacket design in Paul Smith. According to the Change of Gender Image. Following study comprehends gender images and the concept of man's jacket through series of collected data and observes the influence that sociocultural background had upon men's wear. A standard of contemporary men's jacket, the subject of this study, is established based on the review of literature. According to this specific standard, photos of men's jacket were obtained from Paul Smith men collection and from these data the characteristics of men's jacket were analyzed. The method of this following study was to establish a standard of data collection from review of literature and to gather 721 photos of men's jacket from Paul Smith, which consistently appeared in first view korea for 28 seasons from 2001 s/s collection to 2014 f/w collection. Design characteristics of collected data were categorized by shape, color, fabric. This study brought forth following results. Paul Smith's jacket had more X-shape silhouette of feminine image. Color was mostly low chroma of RB series, so that masculine images could be pointed out. Compared to other brands, from 2004 to 2006, more jackets with natural pattern and abstract pattern were widely seen. In terms of fabric, feminine fabrics with glossy and flexible characteristics were used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.33-44
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was $2{\times}2{\times}2{\times}2$ (jacket style${\times}$jacket color${\times}$shirt style${\times}$stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's ${\alpha}$-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.152-168
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.35-50
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the result of a market research on men's jacket in their age of 25 to 35, who wear fitted jackets most, and to examine the comparative analysis of pattern and the wearing evaluation between classic jacket and fitted jacket. The results are as follows; Firstly, according to the results of a market research, 32.0% of the target owned fitted jackets, and 28.7% expressed their desire to buy only fitted jackets. This means their concern and preference for fitted jacket with which they could show up young, fresh and slim look are as high as those for classic jacket. Secondly, classic jacket showed the higher value than fitted jacket in such items as chest girth, waist girth, hip girth, sleeve's hem girth, jacket length, shoulder length, side seam length, and across shoulder point length. On the other hand, fitted jacket showed the higher value than classic jacket in back armhole length, front length, collar point length and sleeve's vent length. Thirdly, classic jacket was larger than fitted jacket in 1/2 chest girth(1.0cm), 1/2 waist girth(2.0cm), 1/2 hip girth(1.0cm), back width(0.5cm), front width(0.5cm) and side width(1.0cm). However, fitted jacket was higher than classic jacket in the armhole depth(0.5). Fourthly, the results of appearance evaluation revealed that there was a significant difference in 6 items. In other words, classic jacket was evaluated more appropriate than fitted jacket in such items as back width, back length, back neck depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. And the fitted jacket had a higher value than the classic jacket in shoulder angle item. Fifthly, In the functional evaluation, fitted jacket was evaluated more uncomfortable than classic jacket. And this means that fitted jacket doesn't have a proper ease amount in each part and it has a high armhole depth compared to classic jacket. Therefore, for more comfortable patternmaking of fitted jackets, it would be required a pattern design which reflect men's own shoulder lines and women designers' flexibility that will satisfy both appearance and function.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.626-634
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• 2015

This study analyzes the wearing and purchasing conditions of outdoor jackets by senior men who are over 50s, and examines product sizes of outdoor jackets in the market. A total of 134 questionnaires and sizing systems (or product size) of 10 outdoor brands were used as analytical data. The results were: a high number of senior men enjoyed hiking as an outdoor activity, with most of them following this activity1-3 times per month and as a preferred personal activity for over 5 years. Most needed outdoor wear suitable for these daily life activities. Outdoor wear satisfaction tends to decrease as people age. The major reason for the dissatisfaction with outdoor wear was price. Senior men aged 50s and 60s emphasize design and color when purchasing outdoor wear; however, men in their 70s considered price a priority. Senior men preferred outdoor brands based on a comfortable fit. An investigation on 10 outdoor brands indicated that they had not designated a specific target customer. A comparison of the product size of outdoor jackets with a similar silhouette indicated some deviations among sizes; however, the age of customers was not considered. The human body tends to shrink in stature and increase in girth as a person ages; consequently, we need to reflect body shape changes and senior's size in outdoor wear.