• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.616-625
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• 2009

With suffering financial crisis in 1997, Korea's fashion market has grown in the direction that satisfies the reasonable price and diverse consumer's sensitivity and needs. The aim of this study is to examine whether the cutting portion in the waist line is surely necessary for designing the jacket pattern in men's wear, by closely examining the effects of the cutting portion in the waist line on the external appearance and functionality given designing the jacket pattern in men's wear for the standard body type in 20s. The results of the study are as follows. As a result of evaluating the external appearance, when having evaluated by dividing into 14 items such as the whole surface, the side, and the back side, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items and, the significant difference was indicated in 10 items except 4 items. As a result of evaluating performance, the experimental clothing, which wasn't cut the waist line, obtained the highest mark in 13 items among 25 items in the total. Next, the cutting portion in the waist line obtained the highest mark in 10 items for the experimental clothing with opening in 1.0cm. The next was indicated to be in order of the experimental clothing with 1.5cm and the experimental clothing with 0.5cm. Given seeing the above result, the cutting portion in the waist line given designing the jacket pattern for the standard body type in 20s could be known that the experimental clothing with the most excellent mark in the evaluation of performance was all the experimental clothing with 0.0cm whose waist line wasn't cut.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권3호
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• pp.440-458
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• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.996-1003
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• 2015

This study aims to examine the effects of the cutting amount at the waistline on the jacket appearance evaluation and movement functionality, and to suggest a proper waistline cutting amount when designing the men's casual jacket for those in their 30's. The researchers prepared 4 kinds of experimental jackets varying the waistline cutting amount: 0.0cm, 0.5cm, 1.0cm, and 1.5cm. The results of the study are as follows: Regarding the front view appearance, the jacket with the 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (6 out of 9). On the side view and the back view, there was no meaningful difference. However, the jacket with 0.5cm cutting amount achieved the highest score (4 out of 5). On the other hand, on the movement functionality, there was small statistical difference; the 1.5cm experimental jacket received the highest score in the most areas. This is resulted because if the cutting amount was increased, equally with the V-zone area which gives room for movements. This result showed the difference from the previous research of men in their 20’s,where 0.0cm achieved the highest test score for both appearance and movement functionality. Therefore, this study suggests using the 0.5cm and 1.5cm for the waistline cutting amount; for the jacket appearance 0.5cm is the best while the 1.5cm is better for the movement.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권6호
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• 감성과학
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2016

시대가 급속히 변화함에 따라 남성의 라이프 스타일, 개성, 가치관 등이 다양하며 과거에 비해 남성복에 대한 기호도 변하였을 뿐만 아니라 또 남성복 시장이 증대되었고 전에 없던 새로운 스타일이 많이 등장하였으나 활발한 여성복 감성 연구와 달리 남성복의 스타일에 따른 감성 연구는 미비한 실정이다. 이에 20대 남성들이 주로 착용하는 스타일을 7가지 대표 자극물로 선정하고 자극물로 제시하여 각 스타일에 대한 소비자의 감성을 조사하였다. 스타일 1 (정장), 스타일 2 (라이더재킷+스키니 팬츠), 스타일 3 (블루종+스트레이트 팬츠), 스타일 4 (박시한 가디건+하프 팬츠), 스타일 5 (야전상의+스트레이트 팬츠), 스타일 6 (루즈핏 재킷+스키니 팬츠), 스타일 7 (야구점퍼+스트레이트 팬츠) 등 남성복 스타일에 따른 감성의 차이를 조사하였으며 성별에 따른 남성복에 대한 관심과 지식정도 차이를 비교하였고 남성복의 선호와 실제착용 간에 차이가 있는지 분석하였고 라이프 스타일 유형에 따른 선호하는 스타일을 측정하였다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 남성복은 다양하고 세분화되었고 남성복에 대한 관심과 지식은 남성이 여성보다 높게 나타났다. 둘째, 남성복에 대한 감성은 스타일에 따라 유의한 차이가 있었지만 이는 성별에 따라 다르지 않았다. 셋째, 20대가 가장 선호하는 선호스타일과 실제로 즐겨 입는 착장스타일 간에는 차이가 존재하였는데, 일치하는 비율은 66.1% 이었고, 불일치하는 경우는 33.9% 이였다. 선호도와 실제 착용도가 가장 높은 것은 스타일 3 이었으며, 가장 선호되지 않고 착용되지 않는 것은 스타일 5 이었다. 넷째, 내향적보다 외향적 라이프 스타일을 지닐수록 더 다양한 스타일에 대하여 선호도를 나타내었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.881-903
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• 2021

This study aimed to analyze adult men's body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, 'upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size', 'torso height and upper extremity length', 'shoulder dimension', 'upper body length' and 'shoulder angle' were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. 'Slender with big, raised shoulders' was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the 'big abdomen with flat chest' ratio was low, while 'obese with large shoulders' was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.91-102
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to investigate the range of variation for commonly accepted ease in a business jacket and thus to find solutions to the problem of fit and ease in ready-to-wear jackets. This study was based on anthropometric measurements, pattern measurements, which were used to calculate ease amount according to each jacket part. The survey subjects were 493 males, between 25 to 59 years old, buying a jacket at stores in Seoul. In the results, the aesthetic purpose of a business jacket(custom-fit jacket) was clearly observed by the means of controlling the ease amount at chest, waist and hip. The ease at chest and waist(ready-to-wear) clearly revealed a difference among prototypes. This result can be explaned by the regular drops and the similar length-width proportions between sizes in ready-to-wear Jackets. Therefore, customers with varying body drop differences, who had to choose a homogeneous jacket drop, experienced too much ease at the Waist and Hip compared with custom-fit customers. In addition, the height could be an integral factor to affect the ease of jacket length and sleeve length. The ease at these parts was significantly different among height groups and showed negative relationships.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.131-140
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effect of the color of jacket. dress shirt, necktie. and perceiver's gender on image perceptions of male, and to examine how clothing color preferences varies according to perceiver's gender and age. The stimuli of 8 pictures of male and the semantic differential scale were used to evaluate image perception. Subjects were 192 males and females in Seoul. The colors of jacket gave significant influences on perception of potency. elegance, preference, and manliness. The colors of dress shirt gave a significant influence on perception of manliness, the necktie's colors gave influences on elegance and visibility. Perceiver's gender did not give significant influences on the image perception. Visibility had an interaction effect by the colors of jacket and dress shirt. Potency and preference evaluation had interaction effects by the colors of jacket. dress shirt. and necktie. White dress shirt had positive effects on the perception of potency and preference in the case of matching with dark blue jacket and red necktie, and blue shirt had a positive effect on the perception of potency and preference in matching with dark blue jacket and blue necktie. The preference of dark grey suit and black shirt showed significant differences according to gender. Dark blue suit, white shirt, and blue shirt had significant differences according to the age group.