• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.201-205
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• 2004

In these several years, as many people have been attracted by the functional cosmetics, there are a lot of study to enhance the stability of active ingredients for light, heat, oxygen, etc. in the academic and industrial field. Especially, catechin is well known as strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and reducing agent for oxidative stress but it is very unstable for light, heat, oxygen. etc. In this study, the stability and skin penetration of catechin are improved by 3-dimensional method. As I-dimension, porous silica is prepared using sol-gel method, and then catechin is adsorbed in pores of silica. As 2-dimension, solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) are obtained using non-phospholipid vesicles. Finally 3-dimension is completion through lamellar phase self-organization that combines SLN catechin with skin lipid matrix. We used laser light scattering system, cyro-SEM, chromameter, HPLC and image analyzer to analyze our 3-dimentional systems. According to chromameter date, the color stability of 3-dimensional catechin is enhanced by 5-10 times compared with general liposome systems. We also confirmed through HPLC analysis that 3-dimensional catechin is more long lasting. The effect of skin penetration and wrinkle reduction are improved, too.

• Korean Journal of Clinical Laboratory Science
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.329-336
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• 2017

This study examined the effects of polyphenols in grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE) using grape stems discarded after harvest. The inhibitory effects on allergy, proliferation, and apoptosis in UVB-induced HR-1 hairless mice were analyzed. The applicability as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics was evaluated. The contents of the active ingredients of GPSE were analyzed by HPLC. After UVB irradiation on the dermis of HR-1 hairless mice, the number of mast cells was determined by toluidine blue staining to confirm that the skin allergic reaction was caused by GPSE. The results were similar to the normal group in the group applied GPSE, and there was no allergic reaction in the GPSE application group and a significant decreased compared to the sun cream control. PCNA immunohistochemical staining of the epidermal proliferation factor had an inhibitory effect on epidermal epithelial cell proliferation in all concentrations of GPSE and serum base mixture as an average of 42% compared to the control group. The mixture of GPSE and serum base suppressed the apoptosis inhibition rate by 27% on average compared to the control. These results confirmed the inhibitory effects GPSE on the allergic, proliferation, and apoptosis activities by with a serum base on UVB-induced skin damage. GPSE is a functional ingredient with potential skin protection effects, and has a high utilization as an ingredient for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.244-251
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• 2022

This study attempted to investigate the applicability of Geranium maculatum extract as a cosmeceutical ingredient. For this, DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assays were performed to assess radical scavenging activities. To evaluate antioxidant substances, in addition, polyphenol and flavonoid concentrations were measured. Furthermore, cytotoxicity, whitening and anti-inflammatory tests were conducted, using B16F10 and RAW 264.7 cells, and the results found the followings: In the DPPH and ABTS assays, 265.8 mg ascorbic acid/g and 168.5 mg ascorbic acid/g of antioxidant capacities were found respectively. According to the FRAP assay, 1 mg Geranium maculatum extract was same with ascorbic acid 229±9 ㎍ in terms of reducing power. In polyphenol and flavonoid concentrations, 32.989±1.610 mg/g and 11.098±0.261 mg/g were observed each. The above results show that cells survived in the test concentrations more than 80 percent, confirming the low toxicity of Geranium maculatum extract. According to whitening testing, melanin synthesis was reduced depending on concentration, and at the same time, 40.62±2.07% of melanin production inhibition was found at 100 ㎍/mL. In anti-inflammatory testing, inflammation was reduced depending on concentration, and 27.86±2.82% of inhibition of inflammation was detected simultaneously, confirming the applicability of Geranium maculatum extract as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2011.10a
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• pp.8-8
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• 2011

인류는 자연으로부터 식량과 질병 치료를 위하여 자연스럽게 약초를 얻을 수 있었다. 약 6만 년 전 네안데르탈인의 무덤에서 오늘날 향료로 쓰이는 약초가 발견 될 정도로 인류가 약초를 이용한 역사는 오래 되었다. 약초는 난치병, 노화, 성인병 등 현대의학에서 미비점을 보완하는 대체의약 산업의 원료이자 새로운 생물자원의 보고로서, 그 중요성이 커지고 있다. 새로운 생물자원 소재로 약초는 약용성분을 함유한 식물자원의 확보 및 개발 등 고부가산업의 소재로 선진국에서 연구개발의 경쟁이 치열하며, 약초산업은 천연소재 신약과 기능성 식품, 화장품, 생활용품 등으로 확대되고 있다. 의약품 분야에서는 새로운 시대의 중요한 생명산업으로서 약초는 한약뿐 아니라 신약 개발을 위한 소재로도 부각되고 있으며, 항암제인 택솔, 신종플루 치료제인 타미플루 등 천연물 약의 가능성은 이미 증명되었다. 식품 분야에서는 재배기술 발달과 웰빙 트렌드 속에서 약초는 신선채소와 기능성 식품으로 변신하고 있다. 한약재의 이미지를 벗어난 약초는 음료와 과자, 술 등으로 활용되고, 비빔밥 등 다양한 약선음식으로도 개발되고 있다. 산업소재의 활용분야에서는 약초는 특히 화장품 산업의 소재로 각광받고 있다. 이미 다양한 화장품 회사에서 한방화장품을 출시하여 세계 속으로 진출하고 있다. 또한 약초는 천연 색소이자 생활 용품의 소재로 활용되고 있는데, 약초를 활용한 염색약과 여성 생리대, 샴푸 등의 인기가 높다. 약초산업의 부가가치 증대를 위하여 한약재 위주의 약초산업을 천연물 신약, 기능성 식품, 화장품, 산업 소재 등 고부가가치 시장으로 확장시키고, 우리 약초 산업의 세계화를 추진해야 한다. 연구개발 투자 확대와 빠르게 변화하는 시장을 반영하여 연구 방향을 수립하고, 산학연 및 생산자단체 등과 새로운 약초 산업의 블루오션 창출을 위해 협력을 해야 할 것이다. 또한 약초의 생산기술 안정화를 통해 산업화 기반을 구축하여, 약초 공급의 안정화, 약초 생산 농가 소득 안정화가 필요하며, 마지막으로 변해가는 약초 산업의 트렌드에 부응할 수 있는 품질관리와 유통 질서 확립을 위한 정책과 제도의 선진화가 뒷받침 되어야 할 것이다.

• Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.354-359
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• 2013

This study was performed to elucidate the antioxidative and antiaging activities of mixed rates 2:6:2(262), 6:2:2(622) and 4:4:2(442) of fermented soybean, fermented rice bran, fermented red ginseng based on the comparision with their separate results of our three previous studies. The antioxidative and antiaging effects of 262, 622 and 442 mixed ratios were evaluated by the determination of superoxide radical scavenging activities, hydroxy radical scavenging activities, linoleic acid inhibition activtiy, elastin synthesis activity, and cell viability of B16F10. The material of 442 ratio showed the higher effects than those of 262 and 622 ratios, and presented the higher effect than the separate material of red ginseng in the antioxidative and antiaging activities. Therefore, this study suggested that the material of 442 ratio in the production of red gineng-containing cosmetics could be preferred as a useful cosmetic ingredient for antioxidation and antiaging.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2023.04a
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• pp.9-9
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• 2023

한국 특산 식물인 미선나무 (Abeliophyllum distichum)는 IUCN Red List의 EN (위기종) 등급에 지정되 어 보호받아 왔다. 미선나무는 국내 자생지 6곳을 포함하는 13개의 서식지에서 생육되고 있다고 알려져 있다. 2017년 이후, 국내에서는 지속적인 보전과 관리하에 법정보호종에서 해제되어 멸종위기종 복원 성 공 사례의 귀감이 되었으나 국내를 제외하면 미선나무의 활용은 아직 어려운 현실이다. 미선나무는 1속 1종이지만 종 내에서 다양성이 존재한다. 꽃의 형태적 특징에 따른 다양한 분류가 이루어지며, 옥황1호을 포함한 분홍, 상아, 연녹색, 흰색 등으로 구분된다. 유전체 연구 및 성분 분석을 통해, 각 표현형마다 유전 정보와 유효 성분의 차이가 존재한다는 것이 알려졌다. 활용 가치를 높이려면, 유전적으로 안정되고 표준화가 가능한 원료가 필요하며, 이는 신품종을 이용하거나 새로운 개발이 필요하다는 것을 내포한다. 일반 식품으로의 활용은 어려우나 기능성 화장품의 원료 등으로 활용되고 있으며, 이러한 활용들은 미선나무의 높은 활용 가치를 투영한다. 활용 가치 평가를 위해 수행된 DNA 손상, 멜라닌 생합성, 항염증, 항산화, 항암 억제 등의 연구를 통해 다양한 약리학적 효능을 가진다는 결과들이 도출되었고, 많은 문헌들이 그 근거를 뒷받침한다. 또한, 유효 성분의 합성경로를 재정립하고 RNA 분석을 통해 그 양상을 예측하기 위한 연구가 진행 중에 있다. 미선나무에서 유래한 식물조직 배양체인 callus의 유도 및 배양이 진행되고 있으며, 옥황1호 유래 callus를 활용하여 다양한 연구를 수행하고 있다. 앞서 언급한 미선나무 연구 및 개발에 대한 한계를 파악하고, 천연 식물 자원으로의 미선나무에 대한 지속적인 관심과 지원을 통해 나고야의정서에 대응하는 전략적 접근이 필요하다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.46 no.8
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• pp.952-956
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• 2017

An high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis method was developed for standard determination of coixol as a functional cosmetic material in Coix lachryma-jobi var. ma-yuen roots extract. HPLC was performed on a $C_{18}$ Unison US column ($4.6{\times}250mm$, $5{\mu}m$ column) using a gradient elution of 0.1% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid and acetonitrile at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at $30^{\circ}C$. The analyte was detected at 290 nm. The HPLC method was validated in accordance with the International Conference on Harmonization guideline of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limit of detection and quantitation were 0.07 and 0.25 mg/mL, respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity ($R^2$>0.9995), and the precision of analysis was satisfied (less than 0.29%). Recoveries of quantified compounds ranged from 98.36 to 100.30%. This result indicates that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of a marker compound in C. lachryma-jobi var. ma-yuen roots extracts.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.295-302
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• 2018

In this study, we investigated the biological effects of Alcea rosea L. callus extract for the development of natural cosmetics ingredients. The antioxidant activities of A. rosea L. callus extract was measured through DPPH, ABTS and FRAP assay. As a result, A. rosea L. callus extract were found to have a strong antioxidant ability in a dose dependent manner. In addition, A. rosea L. callus effectively reduced the intracellular oxidative stress induced by AAPH at a concentration of 10 mg/mL. In a tyrosinase activity assay, we found that A. rosea L. callus extract reduced tyrosinase activity by 51% at 10 mg/mL. Based on these results, A. rosea L. callus extract is considered as a promising natural ingredients for cosmetics with antioxidant and whitening functions.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.2
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• pp.175-184
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• 2019

The epidermal growth factor (EGF) has a intrinsic function of inducing growth and proliferation of cells through interacting with cell membrane receptors in human epidermis and dermis layer. These functions of EGF are used as a main ingredient for wound healing medicines and anti-aging cosmetics. As a cosmetic ingredient, the EGF has a problem in exhibiting its natural efficacy due to the lack of the ability to penetrate through the stratum corneum, which is known as the skin barrier. In this study, a recombinant human epidermal growth factor ($MTD_{151}-EGF$) fused with the macromolecule transduction domain $(MTD)_{151}$ with the skin penetration ability was developed to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the EGF. Expression of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was performed in E. coli transformed with a vector encoding the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ gene and then purified. The purified $MTD_{151}-EGF$ was evaluated using cell proliferation assay, cytotoxicity test and skin penetration test by franz diffusion cell assay and artificial skin. Cell proliferation activity of $MTD_{151}-EGF$ purified to high purity of 99% or above was equivalent to the EGF or better, and cytotoxicity was not observed. In addition, the $MTD_{151}-EGF$ showed an excellent penetration efficiency compared to the EGF in the skin penetration test with EGF and $MTD_{151}-EGF$ labeled by FITC in an artificial skin penetration model. Based on the quantitative analysis of the penetrating substance using franz diffusion cell assay, the amount of penetration was about 16 times more than that of EGF. These results can be regarded as an effective alternative to improve the existing physical transdermal penetration method related to the use of various active ingredients for cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.111-114
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• 2005

This study is about the cosmeceutical products using enzyme induced bio-conversion system. In general, ascorbic acid (AA) has the higher reducing activity and can be used for various purpose in the cosmetics. But it is very unstable in the aqueous system and difficult to maintain its stability in the cosmetics product. 2-O-$\alpha$-D-Glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid (AA2G) is the stabilized form of AA and showed the less whitening activity than AA. In this study, we developed bio-conversion system improving the stability and efficacy of AA2G and AA, respectively. In this system, AA2G (over $80\%$) can be converted to AA and glucose within 30 min. The converted product showed higher anti-tyrosinase activity like AA (AA2G showed no anti tyrosinase activity) and depigmenting activity in the artificial tanning test. From these results, we could conclude this system is a brand new method to increase the activity of AA and maintain its stability.