• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.177-186
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• 2013

Skin dermal fibroblast is the major collagen-producing cell type in human skin. As aging process continues in human skin, collagen production is reduced and fragmentation is increased, which is initiated by matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). This imbalance of collagen homeostasis impairs the structure and function of dermal collagenous extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting skin aging. Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), a member of the CCN family, negatively regulates collagen homeostasis in primary human skin dermal fibroblast cells. It is known in aging fibroblast cells that elevated CCN1 expression substantially reduces type I procollagen and concurrently increases MMP-1, which initiates fibrillar collagen degradation. And proliferation rate of aging fibroblast cells is reduced compared to the pre-aging fibroblast cells. In this study, we confirmed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased the expression levels of MMP-1 and decreased the production of type I procollagen. Our results also showed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased in the expression of CCN1 and decreased in the proliferation rate. Hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa extracts are the materials to improve photo-aging by reducing the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by ultraviolet and by promoting the synthesis of new collagen from fibroblast cells. In this study, we also investigated the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract to see whether it inhibits CCN1 protein expression in the senescence fibroblasts. Results showed that the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 and increased the production of type I procollagen in the aging skin fibroblast cells cultured. In addition, the proteins that regulate collagen homeostasis CCN1 expression were greatly reduced. The hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract increased the proliferation rate of the aging fibroblast cells. These results suggest that replicative senescent fibroblast cells may be used in the study of cosmetic ingredients as a model of the natural aging. In conclusion, the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract can be used in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic material to improve the natural aging skin care as well as photo-aging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.313-321
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• 2023

Platycodon grandiflorus (P. grandiflorus) flower is a perennial plant belonging to the family Campanulaceae and has many excellent pharmacological effects, so it has been used as a medicinal ingredient since ancient times. In addition, anthocyanin is a purple or blue natural pigment contained in plant flowers and fruits, and is known as a powerful antioxidant. The purpose of this study was to confirm the dermatological functionality of P. grandiflorus flower extract and the value of the bluish anthocyanin contained in flowers as a cosmetic material as a natural pigment. Firstly, 50% ethanol and 80% ethanol were added to the P. grandiflorus flower and extracted under reflux for 4 h at 25, 60, and 80 ℃, and the pH of each treatment group was similar. Based on the anthocyanin content and chromaticity (E^*ab), 50% ethanol 60 ℃ extraction conditions showing the color development most similar to the natural color of the P. grandifloras flower were selected, and a sample was prepared by concentrating and lyophilizing. The analysis results showed that the total phenol, total flavonoid, and total anthocyanin contents were in the ranges of 23 ㎍/mL, 16 ㎍/mL, and 0.17 ㎍/mL, respectively. The P. grandiflorus flower extract suppressed the production of nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) induced RAW264.7 cells. Furthermore, the P. grandiflorus flower extract showed wound healing effects through the promotion of skin cell migration in TNF-α stimulated human keratinocytes. The stability of anthocyanin and extract color was studied during a storage period of 50 days at various temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃). Color values (L, a, and b) of the P. grandiflorus flower extract changed over 50 days, whereas the bluish-purple color of the extract was stabilized using 5% maltodextrin. These results suggest that P. grandiflorus flower extract may be useful as a natural cosmetic pigment.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.139-144
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• 2007

In the previous study, we reported the antioxidative activity of Equisetum arvense extracts. In this study, its inhibitory effect on elastase and components were investigated. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethylacetate fraction among the Equisetum arvense extracts, showed 4 bands and 4 peaks in TLC and HPLC experiments, respectively. Four components were identified as luteolin(composition ratio, 19.12%), quercetin(12.87), apigenin(15.81) and kaempferol(52.20). TLC chromatogram of ethylacetate fraction of Equisetum arvense extract revealed 7 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 8 peaks, which were identified as kaempferol-3,7-O-diglucoside(composition ratio, 15.74%), luteolin-5-O-glucoside(galuteolin, 11.91), apigenin-5-O-glucoside(12.91), kaempferol-3-O-glucoside(astragalin, 27.94), quercetin-glycoside(10.81, structure was not determined), kaempferol-glycoside (12.33, structure was not determined), luteolin(3.72) and apigenin(4.62) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase($IC_{50}$, $9.8{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. But ethylacetate fraction(flavonoid glycosides) rarely exhibited the inhibitory activity on elastase. Combined with the previous results of the antioxidative activity of Equisetum arvense extracts, it is concluded that the inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.3
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• pp.257-268
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• 2016

The functions of anti-oxidation and anti-inflammation were investigated with the crude 80% methanol extract, subfractions and henryin isolated from Isodon inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo (I. inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo). Antioxidative ability was evaluated by bioassays using 2, 2-diphenyl-1-1-picrydrazyl (DPPH) free radical scavenging activity, xanthine oxidase inhibition, and superoxide radical scavenging effects. Ethyl acetate and butanol fractions exhibited free radical scavenging activity on superoxide with $IC_{50}$ values of $0.9{\mu}g/mL$, $0.2{\mu}g/mL$, respectively, which were stronger activity than that of allopurinol ($2.2{\mu}g/mL$) as reference. For the inhibition of anti-inflammatory activity in RAW 264.7 cell, the ethyl acetate fraction showed strong inhibition activity NO production, and henryin isolated from its subfraction reduced the activity in a dose-dependent manner. Ethyl acetate fraction and henryin suppressed not only mRNA expression of iNOS and COX-2, but also the mRNA expression of pre-inflammatory cytokines such as, TNF-${\alpha}$, 1L-$1{\beta}$, IL-6, in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that ethyl acetate fraction of I. inflexus (Thunb.) Kudo has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects and henryin can be applied as an functional reference.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.383-389
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• 2017

This study intends to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol type contained in the grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE), utilizing grape stems being discarded after harvest, measure the effects on the skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, anti-inflammatory on the damaged skin of a HR-1 mice induced with UVB, and verify the applicability as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The results of verifying the photoprotection effects through the skin proliferation control through of GPSE showed similar result to suncream was achieved at the GPSE concentration of 2,000 mg/kg on the epidermis (p<0.05). The results showed anti-inflammatory effects on all groups applied with GPSE as compared to the control group irradiated with UVB, but at the GPSE concentration of 1,000 mg/kg, a lower COX-2 protein expression at 8%, lower than the 22% of suncream, was observed to achieve an excellent anti-inflammatory effect (p<0.05). The results of this study confirmed the existence of active polyphenol type, such as rutin, kaempferol, querocetin and procyanidin B3, within the GPSE, and GPSE has improvement effects on moisturizing effects, skin proliferation control effect, inflammatory control effect and improvement effects on the skin barrier function through UV ray damage. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and has high utilization as an ingredient for functional food and functional cosmetics.

• Analytical Science and Technology
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.79-87
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• 1998

Consumers have recently preferred to purchase extensive UV intercepting products, which are waterproof and free from side effects on skin. During the testing of cytotoxicity (in-vitro) in neutral red (NR) method, cell survival ratio of UV-B interceptors decreased to just above 0.08 w/v%, and it was observed that the UV-A interceptors the ratio also decreased to just above 0.06 w/v%. In addition patch-tests of inorganic UV interceptors resulted in no skin irritation even below 10.0 and 11.25. In absorption curves, UV-B was most suitable for octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and UV-A for butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (BMDM). For this reason, $Nylonpoly^{TM}$ UVA/UVB the material of OMC and BMDM coated with Nylon & polyethylene, was used as the organic UV interceptor. Zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide ($TiO_2$) was used as inorganic UV interceptors. The appropriate mixture ratio of ZnO and $TiO_2$ was 6 to 4:6% of ZnO, 4% of $TiO_2$ and 5% of $Nylonpoly^{TM}$ UVA/UVB were all combined and added to our sunscreen cream. The SPF value of in-vitro was 38.9. In practical application, each sun protection factor (SPF) duration of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion and water-in-silicone (W/S) emulsion containing sunscreen cream of the same content showed that W/S type of sunscreen cream was 5 times as durable as the other. Therefore, this product is fit for use in swimming, climbing or skiing. This research is to minimize skin trouble caused by UV interceptors and to make one with proper softness, skin safety and UV intercepting efficiency.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.132-138
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• 2021

This review investigated the types of physiologically active substances isolated and extracted from Pinus densiflora and koraiensis native to Republic of Korea, and the current status of research on their effectiveness and industrial use. They contain various bioactive substances including essential oils, polyphenols, resins, and stilbene derivatives. In recent, physiological activities such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, cataract prevention, and neuroprotection from extracts of Pinus densiflora and koraiensis have been identified by domestic researchers. The extracts have been used in different industrial fields like food, health functional foods, cosmetics, and household goods, but the high proportion of them is industrially made from exotic species. Therefore, various studies on industrial applicability are needed due to the lack of cases in which the activity is applied to actual products, with respect to the effects that have been scientifically recognized.

• Proceedings of the Plant Resources Society of Korea Conference
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• 2022.09a
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• pp.84-84
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• 2022

백리향(Thymus quinquecostatus)은 꿀풀과의 낙엽반관목으로 국내에서 자생하는 허브 식물 중 하나이다. 백리향은 특유의 좋은 향기 및 항산화, 항염증, 항균, 미백 등의 효능을 가지는 각종 폴리페놀 성분을 함유하고 있어 의약품이나 기능성 식품, 화장품의 천연 소재 원료로 활용되고 있다. 국내에서 백리향은 재배 환경에 맞추어 주로 고산지대의 노지에서 재배되고 있다. 노지 재배는 지역, 시기, 기후 등의 외부환경에 영향을 받아서 백리향의 유효성분, 품질 및 생산성을 안정적으로 유지하기 어렵다는 한계를 가지고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 스마트팜 시스템을 활용하여 백리향의 유효 성분 등을 안정적으로 얻기 위한 생장조건을 탐색하기 위해 4종의 Light Emitting Diode(LED) 광원과 4종의 토양 조성에 따라서 백리향의 생육조건을 수행하였다. LED는 white, purple, RGB1, RGB2를 사용하였으며, 토양은 상토:펄라이트 비율(상토, 5:1, 3:1, 1:1)로 조성하여 백리향 묘목을 이식한 뒤 생장과 개화시기를 분석하였다. 재배환경은 백리향 재배지의 기상 데이터를 참고하여 동일하게 설정하였으며, 총 8주 동안 생육상태를 관찰하였다. 연구 결과 백리향 재배 4주차에 일부 개체에서 봉오리가 올라오며 개화를 시작하였으며, 8주차에는 대부분의 조건에서 개화를 관찰할 수 있었다. 백리향의 지상부 면적을 비교한 결과 가장 우수한 생장을 보이는 조건은 토양은 3(상토):1(펄라이트) 비율로 분석되었다. 따라서 이번 연구 결과를 바탕으로 백리향 재배에 스마트팜 농업 기술을 활용한다면 기존 노지 재배 한계를 보완하여 안정적이고 지속적인 백리향을 생산할 수 있을것으로 기대된다.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2016

The tight junction, one of Intercellular junctions, performs a variety of biological functions by bonding adjacent cells, including the barrier function to control the movement of the electrolyte and water. Recent studies have revealed that unusual expression of tight junction-related genes have been shown to be related in cancer development and progression. Recently, there are many reports that control of tight junction proteins expression is closely related to the skin moisture. In this study, we are focusing on the regulating mechanism of tight junction-associated genes by the steviol and its derivatives. Steviol, used as a sweetner, is known to chemical compound isolated from stevia plant. The MTS (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, inner salt) assay was carried out in HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) in order to determine the cytotoxicity. As a result, while steviol showing cytotoxicity from $250{\mu}M$, steviol derivatives are not cytotoxic more than $250{\mu}M$ concentration. We have observed a change in the tight junction protein via quantitative real-time PCR. Claudin 8 among tight junction proteins is only significantly reduced up to 30% in the presence of steviol. In addition, cell migration was inhibited by steviol, not by stevioside and rebaudioside. Finally, we could observe that steviol, not stevioside and rebaudioside, is able to increase the skin barrier permeability through the transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) measurements. These results suggest that the steviol and its derivatives are specifically acts on the tight junction related gene expression, but steviol derivatives are more suitable as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.175-182
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase of Cedrela sinensis extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($3.54\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($2.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) than the activity of (+)-$\alpha$-tocopherol ($8.98\;{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of Cedrela sinensis extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract ($0.15\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($0.12\;{\mu}g/mL$) showed 10 times more excellent ROS scavenging activity than activity of L-ascorbic acid ($1.50\;{\mu}g/mL$). The protective effects of fractions of Cedrela sinensis on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extract and aglycone fraction of extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($5{\sim}25\;{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of Cedrela sinensis extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of Cedrela sinensis extract ($48.00\;{\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract ($5.88\;{\mu}g/mL$). The aglycone fraction showed 40 times more remarkable tyrosinase inhibitory effect than whitening agent, arbutin ($226.88\;{\mu}g/mL$) These results indicate that fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be used as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. The fractions of Cedrela sinensis can be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant and whitening.