• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.124-132
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• 2022

Through scientific analysis, this study identified the material characteristics of metal foil decorating the border line and knotting of the National Folklore Cultural Heritage 'Pouch for the Sutra Embroidered with a Sun and Moon Design'. Through Scanning Electron Microscope-Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy results, it was estimated that silver (Ag) and sulfur (S) were present in the metal foil, and silver leaf was also attached to the medium. S may discolor Ag from yellow to black depending on its concsentration and contact time. Yellow color could not be identified in metal foil at present. But there existed an example of the preparation of a gold-colored flat silver thread; therefore, further research is needed to estimate the original color. The lamella was reddish brown on the back. Aluminum, silicon, and iron were also detected and were the main components found in red soil. This is believed to be the red adhesive in traditional flat gold thread and is considered to be an adhesive-related component of the metal foil. From the gas chromatography mass spectrometry results, the adhesive component was confirmed to be animal glue.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.506-511
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• 2006

Silver is one of the most appropriate Jewelry materials for Jewelry casting and bench working. The technique known as 'Mokumegane' is good for making silver jewelry with natural patterns, such as wood grain patterns, but the process is not easy for silversmithing because it requires complicated and heavy labour. Instead of using conventional Mokumegane technique, we propose a new modified silver-copper casting process that enables a similar surface effect with good metal bonding strength between silver and copper. Simply pouring the molten silver into pre-aligned copper granules or 0.5 mm to 1.5 mm-thick copper sheets leads to well embedded copper silver ingots. The rolled silver plates from those ingots show excellent bonding interface even after the silver plate rolled ten times. We successfully fabricated prototype rings with copper embedded silver plates. Our result implies that our newly proposed process nay be a simpler way to fabricate silver jewelry with a pseudo-Mokumegane effect.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.71-92
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• 2023

This study investigates the symbolism and meaning of the bead design, its relationship with the Silla culture, and the conditions of glass bead manufacturing to verify the theory of Silla's production of Silla face-inlaid glass beads with excellent artistry and technology. The research method includes investigating the design analysis, ancient documents, myths, relics, glass, and metal production techniques. Moreover, Hongshan cultural relics and other cases of inlaid glass beads were collected. There are records in the literature that the people of Makhan, Buyeo and Silla of ancient Korea people considered beads as treasures and used them for accessories. It was confirmed that all the design elements of the bead-patterned hair topknot, golden crown, birds, and flower trees were closely related to the myth of Kim Al-ji of Silla, the oviparous tales and the sacred birds and divine beasts of the north. Moreover, the pattern and arrangements were found to be similar in other Silla relics. The origin of beads and face pendants was Hongsan culture, and a stone cast for beads was discovered in Bukpyo of Gojoseon, the lower-level culture of Hajiajeom. In addition, excavating inlaid glass beads from Sik-ri tombs of Korea and a face-inlaid glass bead from Toganmori tombs in Japan confirms the theory of Silla's production. The fact that the Baekje people of ancient Korea had a glass bead manufacturing office in Japan in the fifth centuries suggests that the Silla people also had a manufacturing plant in Java, Indonesia, because this place was a crossroads of Silla's Sea Silk Road and a source of raw materials and labors with a close relationship to Silla. Therefore, the face-inlaid glass bead was indeed self-made by Silla, who possessed the tradition of bead myths and hair topknot, and the high-level skills such as gold crowns and metal inlays.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.41-41
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• 2001

본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.8 no.11
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• pp.263-269
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• 2017

Credit card holders are showing a higher level of psychology to show their identity beyond the means of payment. The purpose of this study is to investigate which design factors affect the 30th and 40th generation housewives when issuing credit cards. A total of 200 people in the 30s and 40s housewives who live in Seoul and the metropolitan area were selected from among the customers who use the credit card, and the effect of the design factors of the domestic credit card on the selection of the credit card, Based on previous studies, questionnaires were prepared and surveyed. As a result of the survey, it was found that the color design of the credit card design element was the achromatic system and the main image was the simple design which only used the color without emphasizing the image or the logo, and then the character type was preferred. I prefer not to have a card decoration, and I have found that a metal-like card material is the most preferred. Through this, I would like to suggest directions for the design development for 30 and 40 housewives in credit card companies.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.2
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• pp.4-25
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• 2013

Goli-su is the innovative special kind of the embroidery technique, which combines twining and interlacing skill with metal technology and makes the loops woven to each other with a strand. The loops floating on the space of the ground look like floating veins of sculpture and give people the feeling of the openwork. This kind of characteristic has some similarities with the lacework craft of Western Europe in texture and technique style, but it has its own features different from that of Western Europe. It mainly represents the splendid gloss with metallic materials in the Embroidered cloth, such as gold foil or wire. In the 10th century, early days of Goryo, we can see the basic Goli-su structure form of its initial period in the boy motif embroidery purse unearthed from the first level of Octagonal Nine-storied Pagoda of Woljeong-sa. In the Middle period of Joseon, there are several pieces of Goli-su embroidered relic called "Battle Flag of Goryo", which was taken by the Japanese in 1592 and is now in the Japanese temple. This piece is now converted into altar-table covers. In 18~19th century, two pairs of embroidered pillows in Joseon palace were kept intact, whose time and source are very accurate. The frame of the pillows was embroidered with Goli-su veins, and some gold foil papers were inserted into the inside. The triangle motif with silk was embroidered on the pillow. The stitch in the Needle-Looped embroidery is divided into three kinds according to comprehensive classification: 1. Goli-su ; 2. Goli-Kamgi-su ; 3. Goli-Saegim-su. From the 10th century newly establishing stage to the 13th century, Goli-su has appeared variational stitches and employed 2~3 dimensional color schemes gradually. According to the research of this thesis, we can still see this stitch in the embroidery pillow, which proves that Goli-suwas still kept in Korea in the 19th century. And in terms of the research achievement of this thesis, Archetype technology of Goli-su was restored. Han Sang-soo, Important Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 80 and Master of Embroidery already recreated the Korean relics of Goli-su in Joseon Dynasty. The Needle-Looped embriodery is the overall technological result of ancestral outstanding Metal craft, Twining and Interlacing craft, and Embroidery art. We should inherit, create, and seek the new direction in modern multi-dimensional and international industry societyon the basis of these research results. We can inherit the long history of embroidering, weaving, fiber processing, and expand the applications of other craft industries, and develop new advanced additional values of new dress material, fashion technology, ornament craft and artistic design. Thus, other crafts assist each other and broaden the expressive field to pursue more diversified formative beauty and beautify our life abundantly together.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.186-195
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• 2011

Historically, Korea has made and weaved beautiful jewelry based on delicate metal craft technique. Especially jewelries in Chosun dynasty among these jewelry shows practicality, fanciness and social symbolism at the same time, which is one of representative cultural origins to express characteristics of Korean culture. Since jewelry of imperial princess YEONG, an object of a study herein, was made for a court ceremony although it is an artifact of the end of Chosun dynasty after the time of enlightenment, it is expected be made based on traditional shape and standard in accordance with strictly respected court dress code in Chosun dynasty. It is also an important data of research for a court style and system as well as its artistry in its diversity of type, preservation condition similar to original form and its producers who are master craftsman parted in Sang-Uiwon (an institute in charge of dress and accessaries of court) at the end of dynasty. Thus, a study herein aims to research formatively valuable 11 selected jewelries among jewelries of imperial princess YEONG used at the end of Chosun dynasty, and search for industrial application method with digitalization of the shape and design and preservation of original form of traditional culture. Moreover, in accordance with proposing design data through review of traditional women jewelry, it aims to suggest possibility of application into modern jewelry design and cultural industry.

• 지역과문화
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.79-105
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• 2019

In the Geumseongsan Tumulus of the Uiseong area where the Jomunguk was existed in the Three Han Period, many relics such as metal craft ornaments and Uiseong-style earthernware were excavated. However, it is hard to find cases where the excavated relics were used to develop cultural products. In this study, symbolic relics which can express the culture of Uiseong Jomunguk were selected from excavated relics. Then, the basic design that can be applied to various cultural products were derived from symbolic relics. In order to select symbolic relics, the formative characteristics of the metal craft relics excavated from the Tablili Tumulus and the Dali Tumulus were examined. As a result, a gilt-bronze crown excavated from the Tablili Tumulus was selected as a symbolic relics. And then the basic desin was derived from the gilt-bronze crown. The basic design is expressed in the form of birds based on the bird's feather shape at the edge of the standing ornaments and the record of the Bongdae(鳳臺), the phoenix's habitat. And the application design that changed the expression of the birds' face was presented. The earthenware excavated from the Uiseong area was designed as a soil pot and applied various indoor air purification plants. The result of this study, which reinterprets and reconstructs the historical and cultural resources of the region in accordance with the modern sense, can be used as useful data for the development of cultural products of Jomunguk. Furthermore, if the design derived from the Jomunguk relics is used as a representative symbol of the area, it will be possible to derive an image of a differentiated region from other regions. Finally, it is expected that the result of this study will be a chance to re-evaluate the value of the historical and cultural resources in the region.