• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.923-938
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• 2009

Since the end of 1960s, an era of internationalization, Interculturalism has been reflected in intercultural plays which borrow concepts of foreign-cultural aesthetics for the performance and create a new stage language. Among many writers and performers, Oh, Tae-seok created his own unique aesthetic performances through experimental and avant-garde methodologies connected with various areas of art. His plays are worth studying since they suggest us a point of view which helps us to get out of the ordinary, fixed thought and try to see variety of reality. Therefore, our study categorized Oh, Tae-seok's play into four areas according to grotesquery interculturalism : Evil sprit, Abhorrence, Exaggeration and distort, and Heterogeneity. Based on this category, we analyzed plastic artistic characteristics of his plays' stage costume, for example, shapes, materials, and color, and tried to enhance the aesthetic value of his plays. We made a conclusion that the play showed grotesquery features in stage costume, which represented death, tragedy, evil sprit of human negligence, surprising and grotesquery abhorrence by deformity of the body, exaggeration and distortion, ridiculousness, and heterogeneity, the mixture of abnormality and unstableness. Our study could help produce adequate stage costume matching the features of the performance, and be the cornerstone of grotesquery aesthetic interculturalism study reflected in stage costume.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2002

Some factors had influence upon the grotesque image formation expressed in fashion: for instance, thanatos, religions, fin de siecle (end of the century), the aesthetics of ugliness, subculture group's resistance and technology development, etc. Those factors have formed a grotesque while exchanging influence each other, and have following features: First, the thanatos, which is destructive and aggressive instinct of the inner world of human being, creates frightening object and motif to form the images of grotesque. Second, from religious point of view, the church made the Devil a tool for maintenance of power: They manipulated physical body and give a damage to it to sublimate it in holy existence, so that they could feel catharsis. Third, there was fin de siecle (end of the century) to let people have negative life attitude, such as uneasiness on following century, eschatology, skepticism and nihilism, etc. Fourth, the ugliness having unpleasantness and disharmony occupies governing position when our society becomes corrupted and uneasy, and the aesthetics of ugliness discloses the inconsistency of ideal and beautiful life in the grotesque images. Fifth, subculture groups, i.e., the lower classes, homosexual and the youth's group, etc, form the grotesque images by political and ideological resistance, complaints and specific identity, etc concerning governing culture keeping traditional ethics consciousness. Sixth, recent technology development has destroyed a boundary between human being and machinery, and bio-technology development has created transplant operation, plastic operation and other human body transformation operations, and genome research, etc has raised human being's identity.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.168-178
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• 2015

본 연구는 츠카모토 신야의 영화 <철남>(1989)의 기계적-몸 이미지에 대한 연구로 탈인간화 하는 몸 그리고 욕망에 대한 해석을 시도 하였다. <철남>에서 살펴본 기계적-몸 이미지는 초현실주의적 이미지, 그로테스크적 이미지, 그리고 에로스적 이미지로 관찰되었다. 기계적-몸의 초현실주의적 이미지는 <철남>의 변화과정에서 보이는 변용, 파괴, 착란, 그리고 환상에 대한 과장으로 파악되었고, 그로테스크적 이미지는 인물의 일상적인 공간에서 기괴한 형태로의 변형으로 인간의 내재된 실체를 보여줌으로써 엽기성과 나약함이 혼합된 이미지로 관찰 되었다. 그리고 에로스적 이미지는 불완전한 존재가 완전함을 추구하고자 하는 욕망에 의해 스스로의 파괴와 재탄생을 이루는 과정에서 나타났다. 위의 세 가지 이미지 유형에 대한 분석은 세계정복을 꿈꾸는 과부화된 인간의 욕망이 탈인간화된 기계적-몸으로서 비유기체로의 시각화로 귀결된다.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제42권
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• pp.23-46
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• 2016

이 글에서는 식민지 근대 조선의 영토 내에서 존재하였던 헤테로토피아적 공간에 주목하였다. 근대 질서에서 보기에는 이질적이나 당대 사회의 희망을 구현했던 헤테로토피아를 찾아서, 그 공간들이 가졌던 실제적 특징을 파악하였다. 또한 이런 헤테로토피아적 공간을 식민지 근대 지식인들이 담론화하는 방식을 살펴보며, 근대적 지배 체제에 대한 당대의 또 다른 시각을 알아보았다. 삼일독립운동이 시작되었던 탑동공원과 정신병동인 동팔호실은 근대적 관점에서 가장 이질적이면서도 그로테스크한 공간이었다. 그곳은 근대성이 실패한 공간들로 표상되었다. 하지만 이 공간 속에서는 독립에 대한 발화가 공공연하게 이루어졌으며, 이는 이 공간들이 당대 사회의 희망을 담아내는 유토피아로 기능하게 하였다. 그렇지만 당대의 지배 체제는 이 공간 속에서 이루어지는 발화를 괴담으로 간주하며 폄하했다. 원인을 알 수 없는 이야기인 괴담은 근대의 지식 체계 그리고 이를 바탕으로 한 당대의 지배 체제가 불완전함을 드러내었다. 체제의 불완전함은 일상에 대한 불안을 야기하였다. 이처럼 이 글에서는 헤테로토피아를 괴담으로 왜곡하여 전달하였던 담론화의 방식을 통해 식민지 근대의 질서가 가지고 있던 불안의 한 측면을 살펴보았다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.35-45
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• 2019

This study was initiated to add value to fashion illustration as a genre of plastic art, as its importance as a progressive visual art is growing. The research purpose is to analyze characteristics of Grotesque, a subculture that emerged from the challenges and problems of groups which deviated from social and cultural trends, and to develop fashion design illustration utilizing the characteristics unique to that subculture. As a method of research, this study examined the characteristics and expression methods of Grotesque, which appeared in fashion literature, referenced a prior study of Grotesque, and developed fashion design illustration using Grotesque as a based. The result of this study are as follows. First, the characteristics of Grotesque that are applicable to fashion illustration were derived as 'evil, aversion, playfulness, heterogeneity, and abnormality'. Second, the expressive elements of Grotesques, reflecting the beauty of ugliness, present a methodology for developing new and creative fashion design illustrations. Third, it was found that Grotesque fashion illustration is a visual tool that is suitable for expressing the problematic origins of human existence, values, alienation, and social chaos. Fourth, 'arthropod' motifs were identified as a suitable theme for extracting the newly integrated Grotesque images through the process of contradiction and confrontation between humans and objects. Fifth, the Grotesque fashion illustrations could be understood in terms of plastic arts, and could provide a gateway to rediscovering human dignity. Based on the finding, we expect that creative design thinking and development that combines the motifs of various themes and Grotesque's expressive methods will proceed more deeply and specifically.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.823-835
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• 2018

The body is an important object of costume expression, and the reflection of the aesthetics of the body according to age, culture, individual or group determines the form of the costume. In particular, British artist Leigh Bowery provided many designers and celebrities with original design ideas. Leigh Bowery's costumes are related to the carnival concept. Thus, this study analyzed Leigh Bowery's life and works, and examined Michael Bakhtin's grotesque carnivalesque theory. Based on Bakhtin's carnival theory around 100 works by Leigh Bowery, in the form of YouTube videos and DVD clips were analyzed in this study. The results of the analysis Leigh Bowery's body and costume research are as follows. First, this study can define fetishism as a characteristic of costumes such as body suits, harnesses, high-heeled boots, and stockings, that stress the body. Second, the character of the body is not expressed as that of an idealized body, but the fat and ugly aspect are revealed. Third, Leigh Bowery's costumes are characterized by ambiguity. The costumes blur the boundaries between women and men. Fourth, common sense, combined with normal and bizarre, brings out a strong sense of carnival humor with ridiculousness arising from the gap between reality and reality. His performance has had a significant impact on victims of discrimination or unequal treatment in sexual, racial, and age-related situations. This study should inspire many designers through the study of Leigh Bowery's body expression and dress, but it also introduces fashion icons that are not well known in Korea.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제21권11호
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• pp.243-256
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• 2021

영화 <기생충>은 봉준호 감독과 대한민국을 세계 일류 국가 반열에 올린 작품이다. 수많은 연구자들이 다양한 시선으로 자신들의 관심분야에 따라 <기생충>에 관한 연구 성과를 발표했다. 본고는 블랙코미디 장르가 영화에 도입된 역사적 사실들을 알아보고 연극에서 출발한 블랙코미디가 베케트, 이오네스코, 뒤렌마트, 브레히트 같은 현대작가들의 시선을 거치면서 규정된 법칙은 아니지만 서사적 특징과 양식적 수단으로 사용되어진 장치들이 나타났다. 희비극 연극에 사용된 장치들은 영화의 블랙코미디 개념과 동일하며 영화만의 특성으로 자리매김 하고 있다. 블랙코미디의 서사적 특징인 역설, 의도·목적과 결과의 불일치, 그리고 양식적 수단으로 사용되어진 패러디, 그로테스크, 우연이라는 요소로 영화<기생충>에 나타난 영상의 의미를 해석해 본다. 봉준호 감독이 <기생충>에 사용한 블랙코미디는 세상에 어떤 의미를 던지고 관객은 그 의미를 어떻게 받아들여졌는지 살펴보고자 한다. 현대작가들이 세상을 바라보는 시선과 봉준호 감독이 바라보는 연민어린 시선이 전혀 다르지 않지만 작품의 결과는 현대작가들과 사뭇 다른 그의 영화 <기생충>의 창의성에 대해 살펴보고자 한다.

• 복식
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.106-120
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• 2006

Using aesthetics of Rosencranz as the basis, this study contains the peculiarities of 'ugliness' and the obscured conceptual meaning of 'avant-garde', 'grotesque', and 'decadence' that are being utilized under ambiguous significance are defined through modern fashion and fashion of online game characters. Forms of 'ugliness' expressed in modern fashion and in games characters display distortion of form through incongruity, unbalance, disproportion and disharmony, and with this lack of form and expressional imprecision, both contain the elements of comical characteristics of vulgarity and repugnance. The difference in 'ugliness' between modern fashion and game character fashion is, the significance of 'ugliness' being expressed in modern fashion challenges new concepts by refusing tradition and recovering the human nature that has become turbid. On the other hand, 'ugliness' in game character fashion complements the story of the game that uses legends, fantasies or novels as its basis. Opposed to the significance of recovering human nature that is displayed in modern fashion, in order to terminate the opposing game character, the fashion of game characters exaggerates the form of modern fashion with added brutality. In addition, with the advantage of virtual reality that allows a more flexible expression than in the real word, images created are more sensational and excessive use of grotesque images are being expressed.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.34-47
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• 2011

Grotesque make-up causes a visual shock among modern people beyond the standardized beauty definition, attracts their attention, and manifests itself as a phenomenon of "something bizarre, extremely unnatural, ugly, and funny." The purposes of this study were to investigate the characteristics of grotesque in today's make-up as well as its concepts and features and to figure out its aesthetic characteristics based on the results. The research scope was limited to the fashion make-up of the collections from 2005 to 2010 and the advertising make-up during the same period. In the make-up phenomenon examined according to the grotesque characteristics, the pale skin expression, frightened eyes, and emphasis on black induce disgusting fear, sadness, death, sin, fear for life and death, and obsession. As the make-up emphasized only one part by neglecting the original form and exaggerated it to the point of distortion, the exaggerated abnormality led to a sense of social crisis, desperation, and absence of form. As for devilish playfulness, the make-up accompanied by grotesqueness and humor brought the suppressed, closed world in a tight framework out to fluidity and openness, conveying satire, ludicrousness, ridicule, and accusation of the modern society. The heterogeneous disharmony was found in the use of objects in heterogeneous combinations, presenting unreality, fiction, displeasure, ambivalence, and loss of value of human existence.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.13-25
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• 2008

This study is on the various style and characteristics of mask, and was performed empirically by reviewing the related materials such as the literature, precedent studies, fashion works, and home and foreign fashion magazines. As a result of the study, the style of mask in the modern fashion is roughly categorized by full-covered style, half-covered style, and over-half-covered style which is covered over 50% of a face. And, mask is utilized on a hat or a dress all over, or is produced by a elaborate makeup. Mask with lots of variation has three big characteristics, which are sense of disguise, sense of ornamentation, sense of grotesquery. First, sense of disguise means deviation or tool of affectation instead of cultural standard norm through transforming or masquerading as an imagery person or animal in ancient myths, famous artistes, etc. It could be developed to express a designer's identity. Second, mask decorated with various styles and materials has sense of ornamentation, which means natural human desire of expression for beauty, and at the same time human mind longing for experience a fantastic and ideal inner world being deviated from the present world even indirectly. Third, ignoring the original format of eyes, nose, and mouth, using extraordinarily various techniques such as distortion, extreme, exaggeration, concealment, or combining with animal images, mask has sense of grotesquery inducing humor and horror simultaneously.