• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.151-165
• /
• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze the change of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze and Michel Foucault. The methodology for this study consists of literary research, encompassing philosophy, aesthetics, dress and materials derived from internet and case study based upon the analysis of Deleuze and Foucault in the paintings by Bacon, $\acute{a}$, and Magritte. In order to develop the theoretical analysis tool for this study, the period and continuous theories of style change are examined in terms of 'identity' and 'resemblance.' A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's and Foucault's theories and from their interpretations of paintings was developed. This newly developed theory not only defines that dress style changes under the influence of various conditions such as designer's will, ideology, social structure and technology, but also interprets it as a newly-created style that has nothing to do with the original one. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation, hybrid, absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Deleuze's and Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon, Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte.

• 비교문화연구
• /
• 제22권
• /
• pp.51-72
• /
• 2011

The economic decline coincided with the crooked political path of Spanish monarchy that has been on an almost permanent state of war. The Spanish empire was divided and consequently, general impoverishment spread throughout the whole country quickly. Nevertheless Spanish culture reached the climax, especially in the field of painting. Spanish paintings of 17th century are basically religious based on concept of Baroque, whose theme is usually the immaculate conception or mysterious figures of saints. Velaquez, Mrillo, and Ribera are the main painters who represented the trend of this time. Despite having fame as religious court painters, they painted subjects from low society such as beggars in rags, dwarves, jesters, or the poor child. They reflected an optimistic expression and an awe for human being in their paintings greatly. In this paper, we are dealing with three main representative painters of Baroque era whose theme was a picaresque character. This character was one of the axes that coexisted with royals and nobles in 17th century of Spain. The art works that are dealt in this paper serve as materials for historial values and through them we can observe the atmosphere of decline that dominated Spain of the time.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권1호
• /
• pp.94-108
• /
• 2011

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.