• 제목/요약/키워드: $19^{th}$ century food culture

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우육(牛肉) 조리법(調理法)의 역사적(歷史的) 고찰(考察) -V. $\{ulcorner}$산적(算炙, 散炙)${\lrcorner}$- (Historical Study of Beef Cooking -V. $\{ulcorner}Roasted Skewered{\lrcorner}$-)

  • 김태홍
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제10권4호
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    • pp.301-310
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study is to survey various recips of the roasted skewered beef (Sanjuk) with twenty three classical cookbooks written before 1943 in Korea. The recipes of the roasted skewered beef are found thirty times in the records, which can be classified into six groups such as the palm-type skewered beef (Sulhamyukjuk), little finger-type skewered beef, mixed skewered beef, juice skewered beef, little finger-type skewered internal organs, and wide-cut skewered internal organs. The palm-type skewered beef and the mixed skewered beef most frequently appeared in the records. The 'Sulhamyukjuk' in the 17th century were inherited while changing its name to 'Sanjuk' in the late 18th century, which is the origin of 'Bulkoki'. There were two types of the roasted skewered beef, the palm-type and the little finger-type; and the palm type preceded the little finger-type. They were used with no change until the 19th century. Actually the roasted skewered beef existed even in the 16th century, but were put down in the early 17th century. In the cooking of 'Sulhamyukjuk' the process of dipping shortly into cold water in the midst of roast seems to absolutely disappeared. Some recipes of the roasted skewered beef were lost, but most have been inherited in the similar way with simplification including little use of internal organs. The main ingredients consisted of parts of cattle such as fresh meat, intestines, heart, liver, omasum, tripe, head, sweet bread, and lung with various vegetables and mushroom. And the main seasonings were mixtures of oil, soy sauce, sesame seed powder, scallion stalk, pepper, sesame seed oil, and salt. And sometimes wine, vinegar, ginger, garlic, and sugar were added.

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우육(牛肉) 조리법(調理法)의 역사적(歷史的) 고찰(考察) -IV. "구이"- (Historical Study of Beef Cooking -VI. ${\ulcorner}Roasted Beef{\lrcorner}$-)

  • 김태홍
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제10권4호
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    • pp.291-300
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this paper is to survey various recipes of the roasted beef with twenty three classical cookboods written before 1943. The roasted beefis found total 32 times in the literature which can be classified into seven groups such as the roasted rib, roasted foot, roasted tail, roasted heart, roasted gall, roasted kidney and roasted fresh meat. The most frequent one is the roasted rib appearing eight times and the next is the roasted sliced beef with seasoning appearing seven. This proves that the those recipes have been the most favorite ones to Korean people for a long time. The roasted rib has been found since the middle of the 17th century, but the process of roasting ribs again with seasoning after three successions of dipping shortly into cold water in the midst of roast wasz disappeared. The roasted sliced beef with seasoning originated since the late 18th century, and the roasted beef with salt since the early 19th century which has been inherited as the roasted raw upper part of roasted beef recipes have been continued until today in the similar manner. Generally the roasted meat with bones and the roasted internal organs started in 1766 earlier than the roasted fresh meat by a century. The main ingredients were rib, foot, tail, heart, gall, kidney, fresh meat and knee bone, and the seasonings were mixtures of scallion stalk, garlic, pepper, oil, soy sauce and sesame seed powder. And peculiarly salted shrimp, pear juice, ginger were added to seasonings and pine nut powder was used as decorating ingredient.

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만두의 조리방법에 대한 문헌적 고찰;조선시대 만두의 종류와 조리방법에 대한 문헌적 고찰(1400년대${\sim}$1900년대까지) (The A Literary Investigation on Mandu (Dumpling);Types and Cooking Methods of Mandu (Dumpling) During the Joseon Era (1400's${\sim}$1900's))

  • 복혜자
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제23권2호
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    • pp.273-292
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    • 2008
  • Among all the ingredients usedin mandu, the following types were used:, 13 types of grains were used (12.38%), 30 types of vegetables, fruits, bulbs,and nuts were used (28.57%), 32 types of marine products, birds, meats, fishes, and shellfishes were used (30.48%), 10 types of functional ingredients were used (9.52%) and. For spices, 20 types of spices were used (19.05%). 2. Cooking Methods offor Mandu. The mMandu eaten at in the early Joseon era had was primarily made ofusedbuckwheat that contained boiled tofu or egg uiijuk in the kneaded dough for the most part and while kneading with buckwheat, the tofu or egg uiijuk has been boiled down to knead the dough, and and starch powder, bean powder, or rice powder, etc were mixed to make the mandu coating. Buckwheat powder was mixed toadded to the flourwer or was used by itself, while meat, vegetables, tofu, and shiitake mushroom, etc were also addedincluded. From the 18th century, the host plant, or cabbage kimchi, were prepared and combined had been sliced to be used as filling together while red pepper powder was mixed combined withto spices or vinegar soy sauce to be used together. Also, Radishes had beenwere also used as filling, but shown as not being used fromafter the start of the 1900's. For the shape of mMandu, it was madeinto different shapes such as as triangle, rectangle, date plum, gwebul, half moon, or pomegranate shapes, and then shapes to be boiled in simmering water, baked, or cooked as soup in clear broth for soup., In the 17th to 18th century, boilingthen in a steamer gradually became a cooking style, assumed the style of boiling in a steamer in $17th{\sim}18th$ century while in the 16th century,the an essay ofn fermenting flour in ‘Food Dimibang’ in 16th century had indicated it was cooked as the style ofby steaming in a rice steamer. Also, Mandu may have also contained the following: the thin-cut and boiled fish was cut out thin to put into the filling and boiled down, made by putting in added pine nuts after making bbeef jerky or boiled- down meat, fish, or shellfish itself to extractsand mold mandu only the ingredients combined withto put on starch powder, and then boiled down and put on pine nut powder finally, after it or cooled it wasdown to be eaten by dipping in vinegar soy sauce. In conclusion, many different types of mandu were made during the Joseon era using a variety ofwhile the ones using such various ingredients. are also one type of mandu.

홍천읍 송화선(宋化善) 장기(掌記)를 통해 본 20세기 초 한국의 생활 문화 연구 (A study on Living Culture of Korea through accounting records written by Song, Whasun at Hongcheon-Up in early 20th century)

  • 조임선;이은진
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제21권1호
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    • pp.148-165
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    • 2017
  • An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.

17세기 이전 주식류의 문헌적 고찰 (Investigation of Main Dishes on Literatures before the 17th Century)

  • 김은미;조신호;정낙원;최영진;원선임;차경희;김현숙;이효지
    • 한국식품조리과학회지
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    • 제22권3호통권93호
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    • pp.314-336
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    • 2006
  • In this treatise, we investigated the Korean literature of main dishes before the 17th century : ${\ulcorner}Sangayorock{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Sasichanyocho{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Soowonjabbang{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Yongjechongwha{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Dongyoebogam{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Domoondaejak{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Geebongyouseul{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}New-Guwhangchalyo{\lrcorner}$, ${\ulcorner}Eumshickdimibang{\lrcorner}$,, ${\ulcorner}joobangmoon{\lrcorner}$, and ${\ulcorner}Yorock{\lrcorner}$. Main dishes were classified 19 kinds of rice, 64 kinds of gruel, 6 kinds of thin gruel, 1 kind of Moori, 1 kind of rice-cake soup, 37 kinds of noodles and 20 kinds of dumpling. Rice varieties were brown rice, rice, hulled rice, millet rice, foxtail millet rice, barley rice, sesame rice and flax seed rice. Gruel ingredients were cereal, beans, vegetables, nuts or seeds, medical plants or hardy wild plants, poultry, pork's kidney, dog's liver or oyster, clam and/or milk Rice-cake soup was 'Tangbyun' in ${\ulcorner}Domoondaejak{\lrcorner}$. Noodles were divided by main flours: wheat flour, buckwheat flour, mung bean flour and other flours. Noodles were made by pressing or cutting method. Pressing method used a mold with a hole. The husk of dumpling was made by wheat flour, buckwheat flour, mixed flour of wheat and buckwheat, sliced fish or meat, and/or a gray mullet. Another special method was 'Sangwha' made by fermentation. Bun stuffing of dumpling used fishes, meat, vegetables, beans, flours and seasonings. Cooking methods of dumpling were boiling, baking, steaming and pan-frying. From this investigation of the Korean main dishes described in the Korean literature before the 17th century, we expect to develop useful recipes for those who are concerned about health and want longevity, and thereby to advance the Korean food culture.

불고기의 역사적 계보 연구 - 맥적, 설야멱, 너비아니에 대한 문헌고찰을 중심으로 - (Study on the Historical Genealogy of Bulgogi - Focus on a literature review of Maekjeok, Seoryamyeok, and Neobiani -)

  • 이규진
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제34권6호
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    • pp.671-682
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    • 2019
  • This study reviewed the literature on the changes in Maekjeok, Seoryamyeok and Neobiani. Choi Nam-sun first mentioned the Maekjeok in 「Maeilsinbo」 as a "Buyeo·Goguryeo" style meat roast in 1937. Maekjeok was assumed to be made of various kinds of meat, including wild boars, and it was seasoned and baked as a whole. Seoryamyeok is a royal food found in Uigwe of the Joseon Dynasty and meat that was also eaten in the private sector. In 1609, the ingredients for the dish were pork, but beef was later used. The recipe has been simplified since the 19th century. Neobiani is known as royal cuisine, but it does not appear in official records. The first known record thus far is 'Neobiani' in 「Siuijeonseo」. On the other hand, 'Neobuhalmi' which was presumed to be the same food as 'Neobiani', was found in a 「Dictionnaire Coreen-Francais」(1880). In addition, 'Neobiani' was found in 「A Korean-English dictionary」(1897). From Maekjeok, followed by Seoryamyeok and Neobiani, Korean roasting meat culture has a common feature of roasting pre-sauced meat, and this trait has continued to bulgogi.

19세기 이후(1884~1938) 조선에서의 우유 및 유제품 수용과정 고찰 - 신문광고와 서양인 기록물 중심으로 - (Study on the Acceptance Process of Milk and Dairy Products in Korea during the 19th Century and the Japanese Colonial Period (1884~1938) - Focused on the Analysis of a Westerner's Records and Newspaper Advertisements -)

  • 안효진;오세영
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제33권4호
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    • pp.363-373
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    • 2018
  • Although milk, which is a representative western food, has a more than 100-year history in Korea, the preference is controversial. This study examined the milk history of Choseon in 1884~1938. This period was divided into 4 periods regarding the westerner's records and advertisements. Westerners who visited Choseon in 1884~1895 ($1^{st}$ period) recorded the eating habits of Choseon,i.e., no milk consumed, even in insufficient food situation. Among the westerners, medical missionaries began to show or/and recommend condensed milk for sick children. In 1896~1909 ($2^{nd}$ period) newspapers, general shops in Hanseong for westerners showed advertisements of dairy products. In the 1900s, condensed and raw milk were advertised through newspapers. Domestic ranching systems to produce raw milk were established at that time mainly by Japanese. In the 1910s ($3^{rd}$ period), raw milk and condensed milk were advertised in newspapers. Since the mid-1920s ($4^{th}$ period), dairy products were bisected into condensed and powdered (dried) milk. Moreover, many Japanese manufacturers appeared in the advertisement in the 1920s. These results suggest that milk has been recognized as a symbol of an enlightenment food in Korea since the late 1900s, but the old negative wisdom, unfamiliar taste, and high price of milk at that time limited its appeal.

「주초침저방(酒醋沈菹方)」에 수록된 조선 전기(前期) 김치 제법 연구 - 현전 최초 젓갈김치 기록 내용과 가치를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Kimchi Recipe in the Early Joseon Dynasty through 「Juchochimjeobang」)

  • 박채린;권용민
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제32권5호
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    • pp.333-360
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    • 2017
  • This study aims to examine the contents of "Juchochimjeobang", a cookbook about Jeotgal kimchi, and review its value in the history. This cookbook was published between about 1500s and early 1600s, and its book title is unknown because both the front and the back covers thereof are missing. However, the cookbook contains many wine and kimchi recipes, accounting for 66%, and "Juchochimjeobang" was thus named after the recipes. "Juchochimjeobang" has 126 recipes in 120 categories, and this study examines 20 kimchi recipes and 7 recipes for preserving vegetables. "Juchochimjeobang" has a specific recipe for making Jahajeot and Baekajeot kimchi which are described in literature published between 1400s and 1500s. Although the recipes for making the aforementioned two types of Jeotgal kimchi are simple because jeotgal is just mixed with main materials, they are different from the recipe for Seokbakji described in Gyuhapchongseo, a cookbook written in the 19th-century Joseon Dynasty. Seokbakji described in Gyuhapchongseo is made by mixing spices of ginger, spring onion, chili powder with other materials. This implies changes of making Seokbakji over time. Moreover, "Juchochimjeobang" is a very valuable historical cookbook because it has unique recipes, for example, adding sesame liquid, chinese pepper, willow and the like.

"미군의 인삼 복용?" : 20세기 말 인삼의 미국 식이보충제 시장 편입과 미군 매뉴얼 ("The U.S. military uses ginseng?": The official entrance of ginseng to the U.S. dietary supplement market and the U. S. military's dietary supplement manual in the late 20th century)

  • 석영달
    • 인삼문화
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    • 제1권
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    • pp.93-109
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    • 2019
  • 이 논문은 미국에서 생산되는 미국삼이 19세기 서구 약전에서 퇴출된 이후, 20세기에 수출 상품으로서 위기를 겪고, 결국은 '식이보충제'로서 미국 사회와 군대 내에 정착하게 되는 과정을 다루고 있다. 이 과정 속에서 먼저 1994년의 <식이보충제 건강 및 교육법>이라는 법령의 제정은 인삼을 비롯한 식물성 식이보충제들이 미국의 시장에 본격적으로 진출할 수 있는 교두보를 마련해줬고, 그 결과 인삼은 과거 약전에서의 퇴출 이후 '식이보충제'로서 <미국 약전 및 국민 처방집>에 다시 등재될 수 있었다. 하지만 이것은 인삼과 기타 식물성 식이보충제들의 완전한 연착륙을 의미하는 것은 아니었다. 식물성 식이보충제들의 무차별적인 확산을 경계한 미국의 의학계에서는 끊임없이 '위험 담론'을 제기하면서 과학적으로 검증되지 않은 식이보충제 활용에 대한 우려를 표했다. 이것은 <식이보충제 건강 및 교육법>의 느슨한 검증 제도로 인한 근본적인 문제뿐만 아니라, 미국의 대중들이 전문 의료인들을 찾기보다는 직접 식물성 식이보충제에 대한 정보를 얻어 그것을 통해 본인의 건강을 돌보고자 하는 새로운 분위기와도 관계되어 있었다. 이런 상황 속에서 '옹호 담론'을 펼치는 식이보충제 제조업자 및 식물 약재 관계자들의 주장은 다소 여유로워 보였다. 소비자들이 '옹호 담론'의 손을 들어주고 있는 상황 속에서 옹호론자들은 식물성 식이보충제들이 오랜 세월 아무런 문제없이 세계적으로 활용되어왔으며, '천연의' 원료로 만들어졌다는 점만 강조하면 되었기 때문이다. 인삼을 비롯한 식물성 식이보충제들이 사회 내의 담론 충돌 속에서도 식품 통제에 엄격한 미군의 식이보충제 매뉴얼에까지 진출할 수 있었던 것은 미국 내의 이러한 분위기에 편승한 것으로 보인다. 본문에서 살펴본 미군의 초창기 식이보충제 매뉴얼에서 인삼은 여러 식물성 식이보충제 가운데 가장 자세하게 다뤄지고 있었다. 물론 그 속에는 사회 내에 존재하는 '안전성에 대한 우려'도 다소 섞여있었지만, 효능에 대한 충실한 과학적인 설명이나 인삼의 미국 사회 내 성행과 영향력에 대한 언급도 분명히 함께 이뤄지고 있다. 이런 점을 고려할 때 '식이보충제로서의 인삼'에 대한 미국 사회의, 그리고 미국 군 내부의 관심은 상당히 높다고 볼 수 있다.

프랑스 미식 문화의 사례를 통해 본 음식 문화의 유산화(heritagization)와 활용 및 가치증진에 관한 연구 (A study on heritagization of food culture and its utilization and value enhancement through the case of the Gastronomic meal of the French)

  • 박지은
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제55권4호
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    • pp.296-312
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    • 2022
  • 본 연구는 사회적으로 창조된 유산으로서 오랜 역사를 지닌 프랑스의 미식 문화의 사례를 통해 유산화(heritagization)의 개념 및 과정, 나아가 유산적 차원에서의 음식 문화의 지속가능한 가치 증진방안에 대해 논의하였다. 유산은 한 사회가 전승할 가치가 있는 것으로 인식한 것을 의미한다. 따라서 유산은 한 사회가 보존하기로 선택한 대상이자 그 사회 또는 집단의 정체성을 상징한다. 프랑스는 19세기에 역사적 기념물의 보전을 위해 정책적으로 유산을 지정 및 보호하기 시작하였으며, 유산은 사회적 구축의 창조물로서 가치를 보존·증진하는 대상이 되었다. 세계화와 함께 확산된 유산에 대한 관심은 1972년 유네스코의 국제기구 협약을 기점으로 더욱 강화되었다. 그리고 이러한 관심은 점차 자연 및 도시적 관점의 경관이나 무형문화유산에까지 확장되었고, 2003년에는 유네스코 무형문화유산보호협약이 채택되면서 세계 각국의 무형문화유산에 대한 관심이 증가하였다. 한편 음식 관련 유산의 경우 등재기준 설정의 어려움과 잠재적 상업화 가능성의 이유로 목록에서 배제되어왔다. 그러나 2010년에 지중해·멕시코·프랑스의 음식 문화가 유네스코 인류무형문화유산 대표목록에 등재됨으로써 음식 문화에 대한 관심은 물론 한국을 비롯한 여러 국가의 음식 유산 등재에 대한 노력을 촉발시켰다. 프랑스의 음식 문화에 대한 관심은 자국의 문화유산이자 국가적 정체성으로서 오랜 역사를 갖고 있다. 미식가들과 협회 등 민간단체는 물론 정부차원에서도 국가적 정체성과 유산으로서 미식 문화의 보전 및 대중화를 위해 노력하였고, 이론적 논의는 물론 유산목록 작성과 관련 정책을 통해 미식 문화를 유산으로 구축하였다. 그리고 미식도시 네트워크, 국가 식품 프로그램, 프랑스 미식의 해 추진 및 라벨링 등 제도적 접근을 통해 유산의 지속가능발전을 추구하고 있다.