• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.76-89
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• 2013

This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.44
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• pp.197-236
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• 2016

The aim of this study is to discover the distinctive aspects of Sijo in the 17th Century through five old music scores, "梁琴新譜Yangqeumsinbo", "白雲庵琴譜 baekwoonamgeumbo", "增補古琴譜jeungbogogeumbo", "延世大學校所藏琴譜geumbo in Yonsei University", "琴譜古geumbogo", which were compiled in this time period. First, four Sijo works are found from the "梁琴新譜Yangqeumsinbo" and one of them is noteworthy because it was sung as 中大葉Jungdaeyeop, 初中大葉 Chojungdaeyeop, 二中大葉Yijungdaeyeop and showed signs to fit the Sijo format type since the 17th century. In "白雲庵琴譜baekwoonamgeumbo", there are three Sijo works (one has recorded music scores and two don't) and one of them is discovered with last phrase being omitted. In "延世大學校所藏琴譜geumbo in Yonsei University", there are 9 Sijo works performed with 中大葉Jungdaeyeop. In "增補古琴譜 jeungbogogeumbo", there are three works performed with 數大葉Sakdaeyeop and one of them is noteworthy as a clue about the relations between Sijo and Goryeosokyo because it is a modified work which adapted the Goryeosokyo "Gasiri" according to the Sijo format. In 琴譜古geumbogo, there are three works with high possibility that repertoire with 中大葉Jungdaeyeop were already set up at this time. Based on these five music scores, it can be mentioned that a lot of Geumbos were compiled in 17th century, not for the purpose of enlightening discourse at the national level but for referencing for music lovers by themselves to memorize songs individually. It is also discovered that Sijo was performed with only 平調pyeong-jo out of 羽調woo-jo, 羽調界面調woojokyemyen-jo, 平調pyeong-jo, 平調界面調pyeongjokyemyun-jo in early 17th century, but it was performed with other three and 數大葉Sakdaeyeop as well after the mid-17th century. On the other hand, despite the change in the musical tunes, lyrics do not show a significant change at this time because it is estimated repertoire with specific piece of music was already formed in 17th Century. However, performing itself would give a certain impact on change and loss of lyrics because it tends to focus on communication and emotional connection between singers and audience. Clarifying characteristics in Sijo from old music scores is meaningful in that Sijo can be understood better not only as written poetry but also as oral poetry and overcome bias of previous researches which have been proceeded mainly on Sijo lyrics collection(歌集).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.748-761
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• 2008

This study was initiated out of necessity to inquire into the trend of costume regulation between the mid-15th century and mid-17th century, and what influence the change of dress and its ornaments had on the people at the time. As for the resources this study was based on, the True Record of Joseon Dynasty, which was the historical record of official compilation, was used as basic material, and the excavated relics at the time were referred to. The forbidden dress and ornaments mentioned in the records from the time of King Seonjong to the time of King Hyeonjong were classified into textiles, clothes, ornaments and dresses, according to the objects. It was designed to identify the laws and ordinances or regulations enacted by the state and the contents of discussions, which were caused by the extensive consumption of silk gauze and fabrics and the luxury in dress and ornaments, and the phenomenon induced by the consumption desire of the social class with economic power, and to help understand the cause. So to speak, the law and ordinance or regulations were established to solve the social problems caused by the failure in controlling dress and ornaments wearing based on social position, during the process in which the king and court officials were making effort to intensify their political power in each regime.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.49-65
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• 2009

As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.129-140
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to reconsider existing hypotheses on the orinination and changes of changbang-anchogongs and their types and suggest an alternative hypothesis. The earliest changbang-anchogongs in $17^{th}$ century is presumed to originate as imitations of chungbang ppaelmoks for ornamental and reinforcing parts for changbangs. They were framed whole sides of buildings equally, and were used in small numbers of extant royal buildings and Buddhist halls. From late $17^{th}$ century, enlarged dragon shape changbang-anchogongs applied to Buddhist halls maily to decorate and strengthen front side of buildings. As a result of exchange between changbang-anchogongs and Ikgong type brackets, combined changbang-anchogongs in Buddhist halls were invented for stronger connection with upper bracketing units and have been spread during $18^{th}$ century. Danpyeongbang anchogongs were originated by the connection between short pieces of pyeongbangs and early type of anchogongs similar to ppaelmoks. They belong to minority subtype, but were drawn in illustrations by mistake, as parts of main halls of royal palaces from $19^{th}$ century, because of painter's confusion about new techniques for changbang-anchogongs. Combined changbang-anchogongs for royal buildings were presumed to be invented in 1790s by stimulation from a Buddhist hall related to royal tomb. However, unlike Buddhist precedence, they were used to reinforce and decorate whole sides, even corners, of buildings, and their frameworks and shapes were imported from Daeryang-anchogongs at flanks of ritual halls in royal tombs and royal shrines from $17^{th}$ century.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.81-81
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to comprehend the assignment and the procurement method of wood works' craftsman through the Salleung-dogamuigwes in royal tombs constructions in the late Joseon period. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. First, Carpenter and other nine craftsmen were introduced in carpentry works. The craftsmen were put in by occupation to maintain the quality of the government building construction by wood processing area. It was distinguished by frame member, Sujangjae, window framing wood, decorative member. Second, sawyer showed a sharp increase in the latter half of the 18th century and declined since the middle of the 19th century. This is closely related to the increase in demand for building materials and the growth of civilian wood products. As a maximum of 300 people have been assigned to the craftsmen in the woodwork, it can be seen that the work has been divided by the process. Third, the national carpenter was difficult to procure from the 17th century to the beginning of the 18th century. From the middle 18th century, the system procuring national carpenter was stabilized. In the 19th century, the input ratio of the national craftsmen seems to have decreased significantly and seems to have kept it at the minimum level. Forth, sawyer were procured through Seongonggam from the late 18th century through the mid 19th century. That means that the role of the sawyer had become important. Since Jogakjang is not a necessary manpower, it usually has civilian artisans.