• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• Korean journal of food and cookery science
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.731-748
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• 2007

In this study, we investigated e kinds and names of side dishes along with their recipes and ingredients occuring in Korean cookbooks published before the 17th century. The side dishes were classified 79 kinds of Guk, 23 kinds of Jjim and Seon, 15 kinds of Gui, 3 kinds of Jeon, 7 kinds of Nureumi, 3 kinds of Bokkeum, 30 kinds of Chae, 11 kinds of Hoe, 7 kinds of Jwaban, 6 kinds of Mareunchan, 12 kinds of Pyeonyuk and 5 kinds of Jeonyak, Jokpyeon and Sundae. The earliest records were found on Guk, Jjim, Jwaban, Po and Pyeonyuk Gui, Namul and Hoe were recorded after the 1500's and Nureumi, Jeon, Jeonyak, Jokpyeon and Sundae were developed relatively late in the late 17th century. As to the kinds of side dishes, Guk was the most common. Guks cooked before the 17th century used different recipes and more types of ingredients than today, including some that are not used today. For Jjim, various seasonings were added to main ingredients such as poultry, meat, seafood and vegetable. Most of the records found for Jjim used chicken as the main ingredient. Gui was recorded as Jeok or Gui and there weren't many ingredients for Gui before the 17th century. Gui was usually seasoned with salt or soy bean sauce and broiled after applying oil. Vegetables were broiled after a applying flour-based sauce. The Jeon cooked at that time was different from the one that is cooked today in that cow organs or sparrows were soaked in oily soy bean sauce before being stewed. Nureumi, which was popular in the 17th century, but rarely made today, was a recipe consisting of adding a flour or starch-based sauce to stewed or broiled main ingredients. Chae was a side dish prepared with edible plants, tree sprouts or leaves. Chaes like Donga and Doraji were colored with Mandrami or Muroo. Hoe was a boiled Hoe and served after boiling seafood. Jwaban was cooked by applying oil to and then broiling sparrows, dudeok, and mushrooms that had been seasoned and dried. For dried Chans, beef or fish was thin-sliced, seasoned and dried or sea tangle was broiled with pine nuts juice. There are some recipes from the 17th century whose names are gone or the recipes or ingredients have changed. Thus we must to try to rebuild three recipes and develop recipes using our own foods of today.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.37
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• pp.279-306
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• 2009

This study is purposed to observe conventional expression of Hangul Ganchal. The conventional expression of Hangeul Ganchal had set a pattern from 16th century to 17the century after establishing its regular form. It is mainly found in the introduction and the conclusion of the letters. Especially, they are concretely shown at an address form and greeting in the former, a farewell and the close in the latter. Generally, a native tongue was often used in address form at Suncheon Kim's Eongan in 16th century and Hyun-Poong Kwak's Eongan in 17th century. However, a Chinese character was commonly found in the introduction at Jingbo-Eongan-Dok in 19th century. Specifically, in case of response, the conventional expression of 'read your letter' was added in greeting part. In Suneon of 16th century, this type was gradually established to the form, and in Hyuneon of 17th century, a native tongue set a pattern. However, Jingeon of 19th century, a Chinese character was mainly used instead of a native tongue. The changing form of farewell and the close showed similar pattern as the aspect of greeting form. They seemed to be more simple and repetitive in Hyuneon compared with the form of Suneon. Furthermore, a Chinese character was dominated in the conclusion of letters in Jingeon. Consequently, the paper examined the two types of letter between Hangul letters and Chinese character letters were strongly associated with each other. It is expected that more details research will be coped with next study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.115-125
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• 2007

A hat is a general term for what human beings wear on their heads in order to protect them from the cold or heat, to be used for ornament, or to symbolize social position. A hat represents the position of a man who wears it, attitude toward the society, and faith for a religion for males. Since men's hats can create their image and uniqueness in casual wear from current fashion items, they are proposed as a fashion accessory item of designers each season. The purpose of this study is to review hats, which are part of costume, in a more analytic method. The research range of this study is hats for men in the upper class in the 17th to 18th centuries from the history of costume when diverse periodic and characteristic costume changes occurred. In the 17th to 18th centuries in the middle of the Chosun Dynasty, changes in costume occurred as the feudal society of the dynasty had been dissolved since the Japanese invasion in 1592. Political power was established in France as the Baroque Age began in the 17th century. Since European costume, especially women's costume led fashion in France, the country represented the age better than any other countries. Aristocratic costume in the Rococo Age of the 18th century was changed to completely different shape of costume after the French Revolution. In this regard, this age was deemed to be the most appropriate for the comparison or costume. Another purpose of this study is to review the common and different features of periodic factors that affect changes in costume by researching the hats of the two countries in the same age in order to understand relation between periodic characteristics and costume throughout history of costume.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.08a
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• pp.44-46
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• 2001

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.69-82
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• 2012

This study is basically about four-guardian-statutes-building-gate in 17th Century. In the field of art-history, there are four-guardian-statutes made of clay in order that the statutes are so gigantic and grotesque enough to threaten all the devils. This purpose of this study is to make sure that the similar variation occurred at the four-guardian-statutes-building-gate in 17th century. The results of this study are as follows. First, only Da-Po style four-guardian-statutes-building-gates were built in famous four temples separately from 1612 until the Manchu war of 1636. And there are gigantic four-guardian-statutes made of clay in the building. Second, there are Chul-mok Ik-gong style buildings were built in 1660s at Bo-Rim-Sa and Neung-Ga-Sa. The buildings including four-guardian-statutes-building-gate of Song-gwang-sa built in 1636 probably are all similar to earlier Da-Po style four-guardian-statutes-building-gates in the viewpoint of structural type and size of building. Third, it began to build Ik-gong style four-guardian-statutes-building-gates in 1676 at Su-ta-sa.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.145-158
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• 2002

The so-called 'Bustle'which was a support put on waist to heave the side the buttocks means the grandiloquent style to express to ideal body. Bustle style. one of the outstanding and remarkable fashion trends in the late 20th century, has significant meaning in fashion history. This is because not only the style has the longest history, but also it has been periodically repeated every end of a century from the 17th to the 20th century. To analyse to cause the Bustle style was shown, I studied first the sign of forthcoming activity of the Bustle style, the change of the Bustle style shown In the times at the end of century and feature of the Bustle style. Based on the previous reasons of appearance of the Bustle style In the history. there are two similarities. First. reaction led to an occurrence of the reactionary tendency, the Bustle style as they were eager for the past because of a feeling of uneasiness about a coming century. Second, the principle of retrogression led to an occurrence of the Bustle style craving for new style. This Bustle style welch was reaction from being tired of the former fashion appeared to expression a desire for new style. In short, Bustle style was an intermediation between different histories and the basis for continuous development of new eras. rather than lust a part of classicism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.73-87
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• 2003

The custom and shroud for funeral rites of the early 17th Century based on the excavated costume from the grave of Mrs. Jung (1565 - 1614) are studied in this paper. The grave was located in the Pohang, Kyungbuk Province and was excavated in, April 1999. The remains consist of one set of epitaphs, 33 pieces of costume, 7 pieces of cloths, and 14 pieces of funeral accessaries. From these remains, this study newly reveals : 1) a specific funeral custom for the upper class from the fact that her husband, Ja-Hun Ki, was in the position of Prime Minister for the Chosun government when she died, 2) a fact that women also wore a formal dress with round-shaped collar (Dalryoung) and a concubine could use rectangular tablets ((Hyungbae) with peacock pattern according to her husband's rank, 3) a whole set of shroud used for women in the early 17th Century, and 4) specific construction methods for individual shroud.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.5
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• pp.193-204
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• 1987

The main purpose of this study is to examine agricultural technologies through plowing and hoeing. One of the purposes on which this study is to analysis process of development and divergence of plough and hoe. The following facts are significant findings ; 1. In early Yi - dynasty, tilling implements used by ard plough and mould board plough did use in three south province, most region mainly used ard plough. Therefore, farming in early Yi - dynasty is extensive. 2. The mould board plough diffused in many fann house, spring farming and autumnfarming formed complet system in early 17th Century. But works of hoeing was continuing to save labor by long hand hoe. 3. Finally in 17th century, Small - scale independent farming ceaselessly tried to make his basis with transtortation intensive farming method. But Small - scale independent farming had not stafely base because extensive farming method continued in this peorid.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2014

The First bentwood chairs in the world, called "winsor chairs" were made by British craftsman in the 17th century. Since then, from the start of NO.14 using solid bentwood by 19th-century German Michael Thonet, furniture making techniques such as Bent knee, Y-leg, X-leg- were developed based on Llaminated bentwood made by Alvar Aalto of Finland in the 20th century. In the 20th century Charles Eames of the United States studied Molded plywood, using plywood to produce a variety of furniture and during the 17~20 century a variety of Bentwood were developed. Coming into the 21st century, American Matthias Pliessnig and Phil Seaton worked with past Bentwood designs, developing Bentwood further by adapting Bentwood's know-how and IT technology. Science and technology evolved and Reholz of Germany developed technology which can mold three-dimensional wood using a new matarial called 3D-veneer, In the past only plastic or metal could be moulded 3 dimensional but now beautiful wood grain patterns can be molded by utilizing this technology. Also this is comparable with the past two-dimensional molding technology. In this Sustainable Design techniauses era, Bentwood fused with IT technology has great potential as a high-tech and eco-friendly techniche.