• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.109-123
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine features of parts of Jikryung and relations among the features. Results of the study can be described as follows. 1. The short front and long rear of Jikryung was changed into the long front and long rear of the dress in the late 16th century. Kalgit of quasi-square style as double collar was changed into that of common collar in the late 16th century and then into common semi-circle collar in the early 17th century, when double Sup was also changed Into single Sup. Narrow sleeves of Jikryung were replaced by bean chaff-shaped in the late 16th century and then by wide ones in the early period of the next century. The shape of the side hem of Jikryung was changed from rectangle into trapezoid in the early 17th century Triangle-shaped Moo was changed into trapezoid-shaped one in the late 16th century and then again into triangle in the late 17th century 2. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung were made with them correlated. The collar of Jikryung saw change in its form from double to common as its width was reduced. Double Sup was changed into single one and the narrow, short coat string into the long one as Jikryung became a dress needing less adjustment. The sleeves widened as the length of whajang increased. The side hem of Jikryung saw change in its shape from rectangular to trapezoidal one as its position was changed. Trapezoidal Moo was replaced by triangular one as the sleeve of Jikryung was changed in shape. 3. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung influenced the aesthetic beauty of the dress itself In its first period, Jikryung was simple with long, slim silhouettes. In its second period, the dress was rich with increased volume. Finally in its third period, the dress was characterized by the harmony of simpleness and richness.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.56-72
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• 1998

Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.22
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• pp.51-72
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• 2011

The economic decline coincided with the crooked political path of Spanish monarchy that has been on an almost permanent state of war. The Spanish empire was divided and consequently, general impoverishment spread throughout the whole country quickly. Nevertheless Spanish culture reached the climax, especially in the field of painting. Spanish paintings of 17th century are basically religious based on concept of Baroque, whose theme is usually the immaculate conception or mysterious figures of saints. Velaquez, Mrillo, and Ribera are the main painters who represented the trend of this time. Despite having fame as religious court painters, they painted subjects from low society such as beggars in rags, dwarves, jesters, or the poor child. They reflected an optimistic expression and an awe for human being in their paintings greatly. In this paper, we are dealing with three main representative painters of Baroque era whose theme was a picaresque character. This character was one of the axes that coexisted with royals and nobles in 17th century of Spain. The art works that are dealt in this paper serve as materials for historial values and through them we can observe the atmosphere of decline that dominated Spain of the time.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.47
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• pp.261-289
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• 2017

This article is a follow-up on the concept of philosopher/writer and its transformation in the Age of Enlightenment - 1. the dictionary meaning of the term 'philosopher/writer' and the origins of 'literary fields' of the Enlightenment era. In this article, we analyzed changes in the literary field in the late $17^{th}$ century after the expansion of the publishing market. We examined the conflict surrounding philosophers' identifying between modern and traditional philosophers. We have validated that the formation of new readers has made traditional philosophers more sensitive to the 'horizon of expectations' of readers. Some biographical works are also one of our concern. By the end of the $17^{th}$ century, philosophers and writers suddenly became objects of biographical works unlike in the past. Through our research, we found that readers have sought the arrival of a new hero, a great philosopher or a great writer, that will lead a new era, and due to this anticipation, it has led to the publication of biographical works. In this process, we have revealed conceptual changes about authors, writers, philosophers, and so on. In the next article, we will continue advanced discussion on the concept of philosopher/writer.

• Journal of the Korean housing association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.29-40
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to survey the transition of the type of openings in korean traditional archiectures. To do this, various types of openings at the backside of Daechung of 23 Hyang-Gyo Myung-Ryun-Dangs were investigated. After the classification in some groups according to their types and their periods of constuction, the tasnsition of the type of openings was analysed. Results are as follows. (1) The openings constructed form 16th to 17th century, the earliest form, is a ledged and battened panel window(or framed and ledged panel window) whose mullion is built on the frame of window. It is presumed that these types were widely used before 17th century. (2) The next type is ledged and battened panel window(door) (or framed and ledged panel window) which lacks a mullion. These types were thought to be customed after 18th century. (3) The lastest type, which is appeared from 19th to 20th century, is an characteristic backside opening(ledged and battened panel window or framed and ledged panel window) that among 3 column spacings the central one is enlarged in comparison with the right and left ones. Through this transition pattern of the openings, can be menifested that the trend of 20th century is to enlarge convenience of usage by constuctiong door and eliminating some windows.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.15-26
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• 2018

As a result of reviewing various documents and existing researches, since the late Goryeo period, the most active period in the Ondol(溫突, Korean floor heating system) facilities is the 17th century. The phenomenological reason was recovering the buildings destroyed by the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592(壬辰倭亂) & the Manchu War of 1636(丙子胡亂), but the underlying cause was an abnormal climate in which a pair of summer and winter cold continued. In the 17th century, as the Ondol facilities grew rapidly without distinction between regions and classes, the supply and demand of fuel caused economic and natural environmental problems. And a negative and positive view on Ondol was suggested. Since the middle of the 18th century, when the demand and supply of Ondol reached its peak, which could no longer increase, a new awareness of Ondol began to grow. The room was called the Panbang(板房) and the Ondol, depending on the material that made up the floor. It was considered natural to have the Ondol from this time on. The Incan(因間) and Jo(竈) that were made to burn were started to be recorded as a kitchen, regardless of size and function. Changes in social awareness of Ondol have led to concerns about heating efficiency. A variety of architectural explorations were conducted. Such a search was later realized in concrete architectural form. There is a double Ondoll structure, and the column spacing is reduced compared to the previous one. The heat buffer space is formed around the Ondol room, and the double window can control the light and the air going in and out.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.60-71
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• 2011

This study set out to examine Hakchangui worn in Joseon around the 18th century and further the relationships between the Chinese Hakchang and Joseon Hakchangui, as well as to figure out spread factors of Hakchangui. The study proceeded as follows: 1)The Hakchangui was examined those appearing in the collections of works and paintings after the 17th century. 2)The Zhuge Liang's Hakchang was researched through Romance of Three Kingdoms, paintings and sculptures. 3)The images of Hakchangui wearers described in literature were investigated to understand the symbolic meanings of Hakchangui in Joseon those days. Those research efforts revealed four findings: 1)In many cases, the Hakchangui worn in Joseon in the 17th and 18th century has side slits, but no back slit. It's both sides of the center front were parallel, not overlapped. 2)Hakchangui was strange to the Joseon people until the end of the 18th century but started to permeate among those who liked classic style. 3)The aspects of Zhuge Liang were standardized in the combination of 'Yungeon, Hakchang, a feather fan and a wagon' in Romance of Three Kingdoms. 4)Zhuge Liang was considered as a symbol of wisdom and loyalty and had an image of a Taoist hermit who transcended the mundane world. The analysis of the research findings led to two following conclusions: 1)ln Joseon the Chinese Hakchang was introduced to people who had exchanges with Chinese or liked classic style in the 17th and 18th century and gradually spread by their advocates. 2)The Hakchangui must have been increasingly worn by more Joseon scholars because they started to borrow the image of Zhuge Liang driven by the popularity of Romance of the Three Kingdoms and the tendency of reinforcing Zhuge Liang's image as a loyal subject by the kings of Joseon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.25-41
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• 2001

This Paper reveals the costume culture of early 17th century from the study of private letters found in the tomb of Mrs. JinJoo Ha(\ulcorner - after 1652) excavated in 1989. The tomb was located at KooJi-myon, DalSung-kun, Kyung-Poong Province. Joo Kwak(1569-1617), Mrs. Ha s husband, didn t have a title from the government, but he was a clan in HyunPoong area who had enough land and servants. However, he didn't live togther with mrs. Ha, his second wife, he had to travel between SoRye and NonKong where his wife resided. The 40 or so private letters that contains valuable information that can help us to understand and reconstruct the costume culture of early 17th century in HyunPoong area. We believe that these materials contain somewhat general information that reveals costume of KyungSangDo area even though the materials are from a specific family. By accumulating information from real material like these letters, we also believe that it will give us a better understanding on the costume culture in 17th century, Choson dynasty. Furthermore, it will certainly help us to reconstruct a more realistic lifestyle of the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.26-37
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• 2023

This study applied the text frequency method to analyze the crops prevalent during the Chosunwangjoshilrok dynasty, and categorized the results by each king. Contemporary perception of grains was observed by examining the staple crop types. Staple species were examined using the word cloud and semantic network analysis. Totally, 101,842 types of crop consumption were recorded during the Chosunwangjoshilrok period. Of these, 51,337 (50.4%) were grains, 50,407 (49.5%) were beans, and 98 (0.1%) were seeds. Rice was the most frequently consumed grain (37.1%), followed by pii (11.9%), millet (11.3%), barley (4.5%), proso (0.8%), wheat (0.6%), buckwheat (0.1%), and adlay (0.05%). Grain chronological frequency in the Choseon dynasty was determined to be 15,520 cases in the 15^th century (30.2%), 11,201 cases in the 18^th century (21.8%), 9,421 cases in the 17^th century (18.4%), 9,113 cases in the 16^th century (17.8%), and 6,082 cases in the 19^th century (11.8%). Interest in grain amongst the 27 kings of Choseon was evaluated based on the frequency of records. The 15^th century King Sejong recorded the maximum interest with 13,363 cases (13.1%), followed by King Jungjo (8,501 cases in the 18^th century; 8.4%), King Sungjong (7,776 cases in the 15^th century; 7.6%).

• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.121-138
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• 2021

The Dutch arrived in the islands that now compose Indonesia in the 17^th century, settling first in Banten (1600) and Ambon (1605) before establishing Batavia (1619) and taking over Malacca (1641) from the Portuguese. Referring to this network of strategic bases throughout the Nusantara region, this paper uses the element of urban cultural heritage to examine these four major trade hubs experienced very different destinies as a result of Dutch decisions. It also explores how shifts in political power after Indonesia's independence influenced Jakarta's dominance in modern-day Indonesia. The paper suggests that Dutch opportunism and strategic visions underpinned the decision to make Jakarta the center of colonial power in the 17^th century century. It also concludes that Jakarta's continued importance in political control and policies explains why it retained its position after Indonesia's independence, and these have been supported by recent policy measures. Finally, this paper concludes that, despite its Dutch origins, urban cultural heritage has been embraced by Indonesians.