Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Anti-pigmentation Effects of Panax vietnamensis Extracts via Tyrosinase Expression

Tyrosinase 발현 조절을 통한 Panax vietnamensis 추출물의 Anti-pigmentation 효과

  • Kim, Young Joo (Osan university, Department of Beauty & Cosmetics, Osan University) ;
  • Cha, Hwa Jun (Osan university, Department of Beauty & Cosmetics, Osan University)
  • 김영주 (오산대학교, 뷰티코스메틱계열) ;
  • 차화준 (오산대학교, 뷰티코스메틱계열)
  • Received : 2022.03.14
  • Accepted : 2022.03.30
  • Published : 2022.03.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

In this study, the anti-pigmentation efficacy of Panax vietnamensis (P. vietnamensis), a ginseng native to Vietnam, was confirmed. Melanin synthesis was repressed by ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis in B16F10 cells, melanocytes originated from mouse. At 250 ㎍/mL ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis, melanin contents were repressed by 64.04% compared to the control group. In addition, ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis downregulated tyrosinase activity and expression to 53.34% and 59.39%, respectively. As shown our result, ethanolic extracts of P. vietnamensis blocks α-MSH-mediated melanogenesis and is valuable whitening ingredients in cosmetics.

본 연구에서는 베트남에서 자생하고 있는 인삼인 Panax vietnamensis (P. vietnamensis)의 antipigmentation 효능을 확인하였다. 마우스 유래 melanocytes인 B16F10세포에 P. vietnamensis 70% ethanol 추출물을 처리하여 melanin의 생성량을 확인한 결과 250 ㎍/mL 추출물을 처리시 100 ng/mL α-MSH를 처리한 대조군 대비 64.04%의 melanin 생성억제를 확인하였다. 또한 melanin합성에 주요한 단백질인 tyrosinase의 활성 및 발현을 100 ng/mL α-MSH를 처리한 대조군 대비 tyrosinase의 활성은 53.34%, tyrosinase의 발현은 59.39%의 억제율을 보였다. 본 연구결과를 통해 P. vietnamensis 70% ethanol추출물은 α-MSH에 의한 melanin 생성을 방지하여 미백 기능성 소재로써 가치가 있는 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

References

  1. M. Rinnerthaler, J. Bischof, M. K. Streubel, and A. Trost, and K. Richter, Oxidative stress in aging human skin, Biomolecules, 5(2), 545 (2015). https://doi.org/10.3390/biom5020545
  2. K. Tief, M. Hahne, A. Schmidt, and F. Beermann, Tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin synthesis, is expressed in murine brain, Eur J Biochem., 241(1), 12 (1996). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1432-1033.1996.0012t.x
  3. M. A. Farage, K. W. Miller, P. Elsner, and H. I. Maibach, Characteristics of the aging skin, Adv Wound Care (New Rochelle), 2(1), 5 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1089/wound.2011.0356
  4. S. Zhang and E. Duan, Fighting against skin aging: The way from bench to bedside, Cell Transplant, 27(5), 729 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1177/0963689717725755
  5. R. Pandel, B. Poljsak, A. Godic, and R. Dahmane, Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention, ISRN Dermatol, 2013(11), 930164 (2013).
  6. M. Brenner, and V. J. Hearing, The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin, Photochem Photobiol, 84(3), 539 (2008). https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1751-1097.2007.00226.x
  7. J. D'Orazio, S. Jarrett, A. Amaro-Ortiz, and T. Scott, UV radiation and the skin, Int J Mol Sci, 14(6), 12222 (2013). https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms140612222
  8. S. Zolghadri, A. Bahrami, M. T. Hassan Khan, J. Munoz-Munoz, F. Garcia-Molina, F. Garcia-Canovas, and A. A. Saboury, A comprehensive review on tyrosinase inhibitors, J Enzyme Inhib Med Chem, 34(1), 279 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1080/14756366.2018.1545767
  9. B. Desmedt, P. Courselle, J. O. De Beer, V. Rogiers, M. Grosber, E. Deconinck, and K. De Paepe, Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe, J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 30(6), 943 (2016). https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.13595
  10. C. Couteau and L. Coiffard. Overview of skin whitening agents: drugs and cosmetic products, Cosmetics, 3(3), 27 (2016). https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics3030027
  11. I. F. Videira, D. F. Moura, and S. Magina, Mechanisms regulating melanogenesis, An Bras Dermatol, 88(1), 76 (2013). https://doi.org/10.1590/S0365-05962013000100009
  12. Q. L. Tran, I. K. Adnyana, Y. Tezuka, T. Nagaoka, Q. K. Tran, and S. Kadota, Triterpene saponins from Vietnamese ginseng (Panax vietnamensis) and their hepatocytoprotective activity, J Nat Prod, 64(4), 456 (2001). https://doi.org/10.1021/np000393f
  13. K. Yamasaki, Bioactive saponins in vietnamese ginseng, Panax vietnamensis, Pharm Biol, 38(Suppl 1), 16 (2000). https://doi.org/10.1076/phbi.38.6.16.5956
  14. D. Lee, B. Cha, Y. Lee, G. Kim, H. Noh, S. Kim, H. C. Kang, J. H. Kim, and N. Baek, The potential of minor ginsenosides isolated from the leaves of Panax ginseng as inhibitors of melanogenesis, Int J Mol Sci, 16(1), 1677 (2015). https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms16011677
  15. Y. Lee, K. Kim, S. S. Kim, J. Hur, S. K. Ha, C. Cho, and S. Y. Choi, Inhibitory effects of ginseng seed on melanin biosynthesis, Pharmacogn Mag, 10(Suppl 2), S272 (2014).
  16. E. Saba, S. Kim, Y. Y. Lee, C. Park, J. Oh, T. Kim, H. Kim, S. Roh, and M. H. Rhee, Korean red ginseng extract ameliorates melanogenesis in humans and induces antiphotoaging effects in ultraviolet B-irradiated hairless mice, J Ginseng Res, 44(3), 496 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jgr.2019.05.003
  17. S. J. Lee, W. J. Lee, S. E. Chang, and G Lee, Antimelanogenic effect of ginsenoside Rg3 through extracellular signal-regulated kinase-mediated inhibition of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, J Ginseng Res, 39(3), 238 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jgr.2015.01.001
  18. D. Y. Lee, Y. T. Jeong, S. C. Jeong, M. K. Lee, J. W. Min, J. W. Lee, G. S. Kim, S. E. Lee, Y. S. Ahn, H. C. Kang, and J. H. Kim, Melanin biosynthesis inhibition effects of ginsenoside Rb2 isolated from Panax ginseng berry, J Microbiol Biotechnol, 25(12), :2011 (2015). https://doi.org/10.4014/jmb.1505.05069
  19. H. Lee, J. M. Jung, J. Seo, S. E. Chang, and Y. Song, Anti-melanogenic property of ginsenoside Rf from Panax ginseng via inhibition of CREB/MITF pathway in melanocytes and ex vivo human skin, J Ginseng Res, 45(5), 555 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jgr.2020.11.003
  20. C. Lee, G. Nam, I. Bae, and J. Park, Whitening efficacy of ginsenoside F1 through inhibition of melanin transfer in cocultured human melanocytes-keratinocytes and threedimensional human skin equivalent, J Ginseng Res, 43(2), 300 (2019). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jgr.2017.12.005
  21. X. H. Yuan and Z. H. Jin, Paracrine regulation of melanogenesis, Br J Dermatol, 178(3), 632 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.15651
  22. Z. Rzepka, E. Buszman, A. Beberok, and D. Wrzesniok, From tyrosine to melanin: signaling pathways and factors regulating melanogenesis, Postepy Hig Med Dosw (Online), 70(0), 695 (2016). https://doi.org/10.5604/17322693.1208033
  23. S. A. D'Mello, G. J Finlay, B. C. Baguley, M. E. Askarian-Amiri, Signaling pathways in melanogenesis, Int J Mol Sci, 17(7), E1144 (2016).
  24. N. Smit, J. Vicanova, and S. Pavel, The hunt for natural skin whitening agents, Int J Mol Sci, 10(12), 5326 (2009). https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms10125326
  25. T. Pillaiyar, M Manickam, and S. H. Jung, Recent development of signaling pathways inhibitors of melanogenesis, Cell Signal, 40(1), 99 (2017). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cellsig.2017.09.004
  26. M. Cichorek, M. Wachulska, A. Stasiewicz, and A. Tyminska, Skin melanocytes: biology and development, Postepy Dermatol Alergol, 30(1), 30 (2013).