대한화장품학회지 (Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)

  • 제45권3호
  • /
  • Pages.237-254
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  • 2019
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  • 1226-2587(pISSN)
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  • 2288-9507(eISSN)
대한화장품학회 (Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea)
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반응표면분석법을 이용한 고형 자외선 차단제의 물성에 영향을 주는 요인

Factors Affecting Physical Properties of Solid Sunscreen Using Response Surface Methodology

  • 류상덕 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 허민근 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 윤경섭 (제주대학교 화학.코스메틱스학과)
  • Ryu, Sang Deok (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, College of National Science, Jeju National University) ;
  • Heo, Min Geun (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, College of National Science, Jeju National University) ;
  • Yoon, Kyung-Sup (Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, College of National Science, Jeju National University)
  • 투고 : 2019.06.11
  • 심사 : 2019.09.09
  • 발행 : 2019.09.30
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초록

본 연구는 친수성 겔화제인 sodium stearate가 수분이 다량 함유된 수중유형의 고형화 자외선 차단제의 경도에 미치는 영향에 관한 연구이다. O/W (oil in water) type의 자외선 차단제는 안정성 및 사용감이 우수하며, W/O (water in oil) type의 자외선 차단제보다 상대적으로 안정화가 용이하다. 고형화 자외선 차단제를 위해 유화제 종류, 전해질과 왁스나 오일 등을 이용하여 안정도를 높이는 방법 등이 연구된 바가 있다. 본 연구에서의 고형화 자외선 차단제 개발은 수분이 40% 이상 함유된 수중유형으로 sodium stearate를 활용하여 경도를 향상시켜 안정화시키고자 하였다. 자외선차단 화장료 경도에 영향을 주는 요인을 분석하기 위하여 반응표면분석법(response surface methodology, RSM)을 사용하였으며, sodium stearate, 폴리올 및 오일을 각 요인으로 하였다. 반응값인 경도는 경도계를 이용하여 측정하였다. 결과적으로 경도에 영향을 주는 3가지 요인 중 특히 sodium stearate가 유의미한 값(p < 0.05)을 보였다. 또한 sodium stearate 함유로 고형화 자외선 차단제의 사용성과 안정성이 증가하는 효과를 보였다.

This study is focused on the effect of sodium stearate, which is a hydrophilic gelling agent affecting on the hardness of O/W solid sunscreen cosmetic. The sunscreen of the O/W (oil in water) type is stable, good in use, and relatively easier to stabilize than the sunscreen of the W/O (water in oil) type. Methods for increasing the stability by using emulsifiers, electrolytes, and wax or oil have been studied for solid sunscreen. This study was intended to develop a solid sunscreen stabilized by increasing the hardness using sodium stearate as an O/W type containing more than 40% moisture. Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to analyze the factors affecting the hardness of cosmetics, and sodium stearate, polyol and oil were used for each factor. The hardness and the reaction value was measured using a rheometer. As a result, sodium stearate showed a meaningful value (p < 0.05) among the three factors affecting hardness. In addition, the use of sodium stearate as a hydrophilic gelling agent increased the usability and stability of the solid sunscreen.

키워드

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