Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association (한국의상디자인학회지)

Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association (한국의상디자인학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The ambivalence of corset: Post-feminism perspectives

코르셋의 양면성에 관한 고찰 - 포스트페미니즘 시각을 중심으로 -

  • Received : 2018.07.10
  • Accepted : 2018.09.27
  • Published : 2018.12.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study discusses the ambivalence and ambiguity in the relationship between the women's body and fashion drawings in respect to post-feminism perspectives. Deconstructivist post-feminists, perceiving the body as a passive subject, asserted that women internalize the male gaze by becoming the object of male desire, then manipulate the body to conform to that ideal. In this perspective, corsets assumed the role of the tool for forcing women's body to be obedient, restraining and suppressing the body. On the other hand, in the essentialist post-feminist perspective, which regards the women's body as an active object, insists that fashion, in its essence, is not necessarily about sex, nor is it devised to attract the male gaze. In such a viewpoint, the women's body functions as a vehicle for empowerment; by wearing corset women gain power and embraces the cultural norms of dominant beauty. As investigated in this study, the corset is both a tool for oppressing the women's body, as well as a vehicle for the voluntary expression of femininity. This ambivalence in the perception of the corset in the post-feminist theory represents the double-sided perspective in fashion as being both a subordinate construction and a powerful tool for self-expression.

Keywords

References

  1. 김영희, 이명호, 김영미. (1992). 포스트모던 여성해방론의 딜레마. 여성과 사회 3, 35-79.
  2. 손보경. (1997). 현대복식에 나타난 페미니즘 양식연구. 서울여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문.
  3. 임수정. (2002). 포스트모던 페미니즘 패션의 여성 이미지에 관한 연구. 성균관대학교 대학원 석사학위논문.
  4. 임은혁. (2011). 패션에 나타난 몸의 이상화. 한국의류학회지 35(10), 1215-1227. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.10.1215
  5. 정현숙, 정현숙. (1997). 포스트모던 패션에 표현된 페미니즘 연구. 복식 35, 231-252.
  6. 주영은. (2006). 페미니즘 미술의 특성이 나타나는 세라믹 오브제에 관한 연구. 한국도자학연구 3(1), 1-15.
  7. 최현숙. (2000). 패션에 표현된 전통적.페미니즘.포스트모던 페미니즘 여성성에 관한 연구. 서울대학교 대학원 박사학위논문.
  8. 한국영미문학페미니즘학회. (2000). 페미니즘, 어제와 오늘. 서울: 민음사
  9. 홍석준. (2004). 몸과 문화, 그리고 몸의 정체성. 인문연구, 47, 141-172.
  10. Benstock, S., & Ferriss, S., (1994). On fashion. Piscataway, NJ: Rutgers University Press.
  11. Bordo, S. (2003). 참을 수 없는 몸의 무거움 (박오병 역). 서울: 또 하나의 문화. (원저 1993 출판).
  12. Buckley, C., & Fawcett, H. (2002). Fashioning the feminine. London.New York: I. B. Tauris Publishers.
  13. Buxbaum, G. (2006). Icons of fashion: The 20th century. Munich: Prestel.
  14. Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
  15. Davis, K. (1997). Embody-ing theory. In K. Davis, (Ed.), Embodied practices: Feminist perspectives on the body (pp.1-23). London: Sage Publications.
  16. De Beauvoir, S. (1961). The second sex. New York: Bantam Books.
  17. Donovan, J. (1999). 페미니즘 이론 (김익두 역). 서울: 문예출판사. (원저 1992 출판)
  18. Estrich, S. (2000). Sex and power. New York: Riverhead Books.
  19. Evans, C., & Thornton, M. (1989). Women & fashion: A new look. London: Quartet Books.
  20. Evans, M., & Lee, E., (2002). Real bodies: A sociological introduction. New York: Palgrave.
  21. Faurschou, G. (1987). Fashion and cultural logic of postmodernity. Canadian Journal of Politic al and Social Theory 11(1-2), 68-82.
  22. Finkelstein, J. (1996). After a fashion. Carlton: Melbourne University Press.
  23. Fortunati, L., Kats, J. E., & Riccini, R. (2003). Mediating the human body: Technology, communication, and fashion. Mahwah: Lawrence Erlbaum.
  24. Foucault, M. (2016). 감시와 처벌 (오생근 역). 서울: 나남출판. (원저 1975 출판)
  25. Gamman, L., & Makinen, M. (2007). Female fetishism. In M. Barnard, (Ed.), Fashion theory: A reader (pp.585-600). New York: Routledge.
  26. Gibson, P. C. (2000). Redressing the balance, patriarchy, postmodernism and feminism. In S. Bruzzi, & P. C. Gibson, (Eds.), Fashion cultures: Theories, explorations and analysis (pp.349-362). New York: Routledge.
  27. Humm, M. (1995). 페미니즘 이론 사전 (심정순, 염경순 역). 서울: 삼신각 (원저 1995 출판).
  28. Kaiser, S. B., Nagasawa, R. H., & Hutton, S. S. (1995). Construction of an SI theory of fashion, part 1: Ambivalence and change. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 13(3), 172-183. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9501300304
  29. Kawamura, Y. (2005). Fashion-ology: An introduction to fashion studies. Oxford.New York: Berg.
  30. Kunzle, D. (1982). Fashion and fetishism: A social history of the corset, tight-lacing, and other forms of body-sculpture in the west. Totowa, NJ: Rowman & Littlefield.
  31. Lynn, E. (2010). Underwear fashion detail. London: V&A Publishing.
  32. McDowell, C. (1992). Dressed to kill: Sex, power and clothes. London: Hutchinson.
  33. Mulvey, L. (1998). Visual and other pleasures. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
  34. Owens, C. (1993). 타자들의 담론: 여성해방 비평과 포스트모더니즘. H. Foster, (Ed.), 반미학: 포스트 모던 문화론 (윤호병 역) (pp.99-131). 서울: 현대미학사 (원저 1991 출판)
  35. Rabine, L. W. (1994). A woman's two bodies: Fashion magazines, consumerism, and feminism. In S. Benstock, & S. Ferriss, On fashion (pp.59-75). Piscataway, NJ: Rutgers University Press.
  36. Ruark, J. (2011). A second look at the big squeeze. In L. Welters, & A. Lillethun, (Eds.), The fashion reader (pp.232-236). Oxford.New York: Berg.
  37. Rudofsky, B. (1984). The unfashionable human body. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold Co.
  38. Silverman, K. (1986). Fragments of a fashionable discourse. In T. Modleski, (Ed.), Studies in entertainment: Critical approaches to mass culture (pp.139-152). Bloomington: Indiana University Press.
  39. Steele, V. (1985). Fashion and eroticism: Ideals of feminine beauty from the Victorian era to the Jazz age. New York.Oxford: Oxford University Press.
  40. Steele, V. (2007). Fashion and fetishism. In M. Barnard, (Ed.), Fashion theory: A reader (pp.576-584). New York: Routledge.
  41. Summers, L. (2001). Bound to please: A history of the Victorian corset. Oxford.New York: Berg.
  42. Thesander, M. (1997). The feminine ideal. London: Reaktion Books.
  43. Tseelon, E. (1995). The masque of femininity: The presentation of woman in everyday life. London: Sage.
  44. Tyner, K. E., & Ogle, J. P. (2009). Feminist theory of the dressed female body: A comparative analysis and applications for textiles and clothing scholarship. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 27(2), 74-105.
  45. Weibel, K. (1977). Mirror, mirror: Images of women reflected in popular culture. New York: Anchor.
  46. Welters, L., & Lillethun, A.(Eds.)(2007). The fashion reader. Oxford.New York: Berg.
  47. West, C., & Zimmerman, D. H. (1987). Doing gender. Gender and Society 1(2), 125-151. https://doi.org/10.1177/0891243287001002002
  48. Wilson, E. (1984). Fashion and postmodernism. In J. Storey, (Ed.), Cultural theory and popular culture (pp.444-455). New York: Harvester Wheatsheaf.
  49. Wilson, E. (1990). These new components of the spectacle: Fashion and postmodernism. In R. Boyne, & A. Rattansi, (Eds.), Postmodernism and society (pp.219-221). London: McMillan.
  50. Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press.
  51. Wolf, N. (1991). The beauty myth. New York: Doubleday.