Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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Specimens and method for evaluating the moisturizing ability of lip makeup products

립메이크업 제품의 보습능 평가용 시편과 측정법

  • Sung, Jee Eun (Department of Chemical Engineering, Soongsil University) ;
  • Jung, Jung Hui (Department of Chemical Engineering, Soongsil University) ;
  • Ryu, Hee-Wook (Department of Chemical Engineering, Soongsil University)
  • Received : 2017.09.13
  • Accepted : 2017.10.12
  • Published : 2017.12.30
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Abstract

In this study, the method of evaluation of moisturizing ability of cosmetics using specimens was studied as an alternative method of clinical tests. Cosmetic spreadability, surface drying, and moisture loss rate of four specimens (Japanese cake (Maru mochi), Garaetteok, wheat flour, and agar) were evaluated. Also, the water loss rate of the specimens and the transepidermal waterloss were analyzed for 10 kinds of lip make-up products (5 kinds of lipstick, 3 kinds of lip balm, 2 kinds of lip gloss). The moisture loss rate (moisture evaporation sensitivity) of the agar specimen was highest in the order of agar> Garaetteok> Japanese cake> wheat flour. Agar specimens are the most suitable in terms of spreadability, surface crack, and raw material supply. Containers for the preparation of agar specimens are suitable for plastic materials with low heat transfer, which can produce convex, smooth surface specimens. In the evaluation of moisturizing ability of lip makeup products, there was a strong correlation between the water loss rate and the transepidermal waterloss rate measured with agar specimens. These results show that the proposed method can be used as one of the useful alternative test methods.

본 연구에서는 임상시험의 대체시험법으로 시편을 이용한 화장품의 보습능 평가기법을 연구하였다. 4종의 시편(일본떡, 가래떡, 밀가루, 한천)에 대한 립 메이크업 제품의 발림성, 표면의 건조 특성, 수분손실율 등을 비교 평가하였다. 또한, 10종의 립 메이크업 제품(립스틱 5종, 립밤 3종, 립글로스 2종)을 대상으로 시편을 사용한 수분손실율과 임상평가를 통한 경피수분손실량을 분석하고 이들의 상관 관계를 조사하였다. 시편의 수분손실율은 한천 > 가래떡 > 일본떡 > 밀가루 순으로 한천시편의 수분 손실율(수분증발 민감도)이 가장 우수하였다. 또한, 시편소재 중 한천시편이 발림성, 표면 균열, 원료 수급 등의 측면에서 가장 적합하였다. 한천시편은 볼록하고 매끄러운 표면의 시편 제조가 가능한 열 전달이 낮은 플라스틱재질의 용기가 적합하였다. 한천시편을 이용한 립메이크업 제품군에 대한 수분손실율(보습능)과 임상시험법(경피수분손실)과 강한 상관관계를 보였다. 이러한 결과들은 본 연구에서 제안한 한천 시편을 이용한 보습능 평가 기법이 유용한 대체시험법 중 하나로 활용 가능함을 의미한다.

Keywords

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