Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.12925/jkocs.2017.34.4.727

Specimens and method for evaluating the moisturizing ability of lip makeup products  

Sung, Jee Eun (Department of Chemical Engineering, Soongsil University)
Jung, Jung Hui (Department of Chemical Engineering, Soongsil University)
Ryu, Hee-Wook (Department of Chemical Engineering, Soongsil University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology / v.34, no.4, 2017 , pp. 727-736 More about this Journal
Abstract
In this study, the method of evaluation of moisturizing ability of cosmetics using specimens was studied as an alternative method of clinical tests. Cosmetic spreadability, surface drying, and moisture loss rate of four specimens (Japanese cake (Maru mochi), Garaetteok, wheat flour, and agar) were evaluated. Also, the water loss rate of the specimens and the transepidermal waterloss were analyzed for 10 kinds of lip make-up products (5 kinds of lipstick, 3 kinds of lip balm, 2 kinds of lip gloss). The moisture loss rate (moisture evaporation sensitivity) of the agar specimen was highest in the order of agar> Garaetteok> Japanese cake> wheat flour. Agar specimens are the most suitable in terms of spreadability, surface crack, and raw material supply. Containers for the preparation of agar specimens are suitable for plastic materials with low heat transfer, which can produce convex, smooth surface specimens. In the evaluation of moisturizing ability of lip makeup products, there was a strong correlation between the water loss rate and the transepidermal waterloss rate measured with agar specimens. These results show that the proposed method can be used as one of the useful alternative test methods.
Keywords
Moisturizing capacity; Lip make-up products; Agar specimen; Alternative method; Transepidermal waterloss;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Impactbook editorial department, Cosmetics Market Trends and Prospects 2017, p. 47-87, Impactbook, (2017).
2 S. B. Kim, "Global Cosmetic Trend Prospects and the 2012 Management Performance Analysis", Korea Health Industry Development Institute, Vol. 113, (2014).
3 S. J. Lee, H. C. Kim, "Analysis of EU Safety Control Regulation for Cosmetics: Market Strategies for the Korean Cosmetic Industry", J. Int. Trade Commer., Vol.13, No.4, pp. 621-635, (2017).
4 M. Loden,"Effect of Moisturizers on Epidermal Barrier Function", Clin. Dermatol., Vol. 30, No.3, pp.286-296, (2012).   DOI
5 Lee SH, Lee SE, Ahn SK, Hong SP, Skin Barrier, p.48, p293, Ryomoongak, (2010).
6 M. Loden, "Role of Topical Emollient and Moisturizer in the Treatment of Dryskin Barrier Disorders", Am. J. Clin. Dermatol., Vol.4, No.11, pp.771-788, (2003).   DOI
7 P. M. Elias, "Skin Barrier Function", Curr. Allergy Asthma Rep., Vol. 8, No. 4, pp.299-305, (2008).   DOI
8 H. J. Jeong, Analytical Method Development for Quality Assessment of Cosmetics, Sungkyunkwan University Master's Thesis, (2010).
9 J. Y. Lee, W. S. Park, E. D. Son, S. M. An, J. S. Hwang,"In vitro Evaluation Methods for the Development of Cosmeceutical Ingredients", ALTEX, Vol.1, No.1, pp. 33-40, (2007).
10 N. K. Lee, H. J. Park, K. M. Lim, "Reconstructed Human Skin and Cornea Models as Alternative Methods to Animal Tests", ALTEX, Vol. 8, No.1, 29-36, (2014).
11 M. Denda, L.C Wood, S. Emami, C. Calhoun, B. E. Brown, P. M. Elias, K. R. Feingold,"The Epidermal Hyperplasia Associated with Repeated Barrier Disruption by Acetone Treatment or Tape Stripping cannot be Attributed to Increased Water Loss". Arch. Dermatol. Res., Vol. 288, No.5-6, pp. 230-238, (1996).   DOI
12 D. K. Min, Y. B. Yun,"Skin Humidity Effects of Strontium on Acute Skin Barrier Damage in Hairless Mice", J. Kor. oriental Med., Vol.1, pp. 117-133, (2008).
13 A. O. Barel, P. Clarys, "Study of the Stratum Corneum Barrier Function by Transepidermal Water Loss Measurements: Comparison between two Commercial Instruments", Skin Pharmacol., Vol.8, No.4, pp. 186-195, (1995).   DOI
14 H. K. Lee, G. W. Nam, "Methods of Measuring & Evaluating Moisturizers", J. Skin. Barrier. Res., Vol. 9, No.1, pp.52-58, (2009).
15 J. H. Jung, K. H. Han, S. Y. Cho, "Development and Validation of Efficacy Evaluations of Cosmetic Products", p 123-124. Korea Food and Drug Administration, (2013).
16 A. Almeida, B. Sarmento, F. Rodrigues, "Insights on In Vitro Models for Safety and Toxicity Assessment of Cosmetic Ingredients". Int. J. Pharm., Vol.519, No.1, pp. 178-185, (2017).   DOI
17 P. Clarys, R. Clijsen, J. Taeymans, A. O. Barel, "Hydration Measurements of the Stratum Corneum: Comparison between the Capacitance Method (digital version of the Corneometer CM 825$^{(R)}$) and the Impedance Method (Skicon-200EX$^{(R)}$)". Skin Res. Technol., Vol.18, No.3, pp. 316-323, (2012).   DOI
18 K. Kikuchi, M. Asano, H. Tagami, S. Aiba, "Comparison of the Measuring Efficacy of Transepidermal Water Loss of a Reasonably Priced, Portable Closed-Chamber System Device H4500 with that of rather Expensive, Conventional Devices such as Tewameter and Vaporimeter", Skin Res. Technol., Vol.23, No.4, pp.597-601, (2017).   DOI
19 J. H. Jung, H. W. Ryu, "Validity of Japanese Rice Cake in the Assessment of Moisturizing Capacity for Lip Make-up Products", Kor. J. Aesthet. Cosmetol., Vol.11, No.3, pp. 577-584, (2013).