• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.15-26
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to offer basic data for designing and making of brassiere with the consideration of the physiological nature of man. Each of 3/4-cup wired upward-support-type Mold Bra of 75 size with basic pad made at three representative domestic companies (A, B and C Company) was selected for analysis of pattern and components. The following is the result of this study. 1. That Company A's bra had the highest cup, relatively narrow width, the widest front-center and the highest front center at front pad. That of Company B had relatively short wing over the base and much difference at the height of cup depending on the presence of wire. That of Company C had low and wide cup, the widest bust span and the front center width, the front center height of front pad, the base length of front pad and the length of wings were observed to be of the figures between those of Company A and B. 2. The Bra of Company A had the biggest front center angle of $6^{\circ}$, while that of Company C had the biggest wing angle of $18^{\circ}$. The Bra of Company B showed the biggest difference of patterns depending on the presence of wire. Those of Company A and C showed very similar shape when wire was inserted. 3. The order of making brassiere is following: making of exterior mold cup${\rightarrow}$ sewing exterior cup and circumference of mold${\rightarrow}$ sewing base and wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to base${\rightarrow}$ sewing cup and main pad${\rightarrow}$ sewing binding tape to upper sides and upper part of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing wire-tape to interior base of cup${\rightarrow}$ inserting of wire inside wire-tape${\rightarrow}$ sewing hook & eye on the back of wings${\rightarrow}$ sewing shoulder string.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.215-227
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• 2019

This study develops a post-operative brassiere suitable for changed breast shapes and the characteristics of breast augmentation patients. Six subjects who experienced breast augmentation surgery with a cup size of C or D cup participated in the wearing test. We conducted a wearing test to evaluate the superiority of the developed post-operative bra. As a result, the evaluation of the developed bra was excellent in the outer cup, outer circle of breast front gore, shoulder straps and the wing pressures. Second the satisfaction of the developed brassiere was high in the front center part, and in the evaluation of wearing satisfaction of the subjects; in addition, the degree of close contact with the cup, flexibility, touch, and overall evaluation. The satisfaction of the developed bra was also higher than a commercial bra. Third, the developed bra proved superior in the adaptability test, such as prevention of breast shaking, prevention of bra and breast separation during movements, and ease of body movement.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.63-79
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• 2011

This study examines the relationship between breast shape and brassiere construction through the comparative analysis of brassiere pattern on the breast shape. This researcher drew the brassiere pattern of developing a pre-study for Chinese female adults according to average size based on the four breast shapes. And then we measures brassiere pattern size and comparatively analyzes breast between size and shape. Comparative analysis results of brassiere patterns are verified differences of size and shape on the breast shape. Above all an angle of cup dart showed remarkable differences on the breast shape. An angle of cup dart isn't proportioned to breast size. An angle of cup dart for cone shape is bigger than dome shape. Because cone shape breast is protruded center part but dome shape breast have a shape of smooth curve like a half globe. So an angle of a cone shape breast cup dart is determined bigger than dome shape breast. For increasing the uplift effect of brassiere, brassiere pattern is different on the breast shape. And a brassiere pattern need different drawing methods about the angle of cup dart, breast inner side diameter, slope and so on. This study has an important significance that it established a mechanical relationship of breast shape and brassiere pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권11호
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• pp.1536-1543
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• 2004

Garment is made by a 2D pattern and should be fitted to a human body which has 3D characteristics. Therefore, to design a pattern more effectively, the use of 3D information of a human body and the investigation of relationship between the 3D garment and 2D pattern are necessary. In this work, ruled surface method was used to reflect the 3D information of a human body for a pattern design. The images of the brassiere line on the woman's dress form were captured by phase-shifting projection moire system and the 3D information on the design line was obtained. 2D patterns on the various parts of the brassiere were developed directly from the 3D data by the ruled surface method. In addition, design line, the area and the amount of dart were quantified. And then we verify the appropriateness of the ruled surface method to the 2D pattern development by measuring the distribution of the space between women's figure and segmented clothing item. It was found that the ruled surface method is useful to transform the 3D design line to the 2D pattern, if we followed the steps suggested in this paper.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권4호
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• pp.646-660
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• 2017

This study provides basic data to develop a brassiere pattern that can cover the big breast of breast enlargement patients. In this study, we also showed areas of the brassiere cup pattern and the body surface of the breast on a breast enlargement patient. The results of the study are as follows. Correlation analysis was obtained between volume and body surface area and breast detail dimensions. After the correction process, we proposed a research bra pattern for breast augmentation patients. The cup-boundary in bra patterns of breast enlargement surgery patients is longer than the bra patterns of the general breast; therefore, the height of the inner and outer edges of the upper cups is higher. Also, it is necessary to set the new breast upper point when measuring the upper length in patients with breast augmentation surgery because the points of circumference of the breast are marked higher than chest circumference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.204-214
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• 2019

A CAD program has recently been introduced that can be directly developed into a three-dimensional human body shape and made into a pattern. It is possible to fabricate a bra that reflects the volume and surface area of the breast; however, it still needs to be verified. This study investigates the average size and shape of 20 big-breasted women and designs a brassiere pattern for women with large breasts using a 3D Flattening function of OptiTex PDS v15.6. In addition, the study verifies the reliability of the proposed method compared to a conventional brassiere pattern. The study results are as follows. First, the three dimensional measurement values were smaller than the direct measurement dimensions when the three dimension measurement dimensions of the subjects were compared with the direct measurement dimensions, the replica measurement dimensions and the three dimensional measurement dimensions. Second, the 3D flattening pattern reflects the actual shape, length, and area of the actual breast when comparing a brassiere pattern using a 3D shape and pattern reflecting the direct measurement.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2021

This study analyzes the shape change of the breast according to the replica combination method of the lower cup and suggest a pattern construction for the end use purpose. To provide appropriate brassiere patterns to each individual who has various 3D shape characteristics, the ways of layout of 3D replicas were investigated as well as evaluated subjectively and objectively. As for experimental brassieres, basic replicas from the mold cup of long-run brassiere were combined into five different ways to find the appropriate lower brassiere cup pattern. Eighteen women wore experimental brassieres and their breasts were analyzed using the Geomagic Design X program (3D System, Inc., Korea). As result, the pattern that matched the vertexes of the four pieces of the replica and naturally spread the bottom part was best for raising and pushing toward the inside breasts. The fit was good in the case of a pattern in which the convex portions overlapped both sides of the four replica pieces where the vertexes and the bottom part naturally spread apart. The subjects were able to differentiate comfortably fitted brassieres and highly functional brassieres.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.467-473
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• 2005

The integrative Internet program was developed for the selection of optimal brassiere components according to the breast types of middle-aged women. In this program, a customer is classified into a certain group through three steps of a discriminant analysis. Three variables used in the analysis include breast volume, radii of curvature of under-breast curve, and a distance between inner breast points. Using individual data of three variables, the optimal brassiere components, i.e. brassiere cup size, curvature of front panel and wire, distance between cups, are suggested for each customer. Discrimination of breast types using only 2D measurements is also included for those who do not have easy access to a 3D measurement device.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to dvelop the basic pattern of wome which are fitting for 75A. The collected data were statistcally processed usig the SPSS 10.0 for Mans Standard Deiation, Cronbach's $\alpha$, etc. This study suggested a size chart for body measurement for constructing basic brssiere patterns with size of 75A. The construction of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing and characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embrcing the entire breasts. The drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for 75A was completed by selecting a total of 11subjects, and two wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassiere pattern suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.15-35
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to develop brassiere pattern designed to fit the breast shapes based on ESMOD pattern. It has three quarters cup round shape and also consists of three parts; upper cup, lower cup, and wings. Breast types are classified into five shapes; ideal breast, flat breast, upper developed breast, lower developed breast, and projecting breast. Two subjects for each breast type wore the brassiere, and they evaluated the appearance and wearing twice. Type I for research pattern designed to fit into the breast shape reflecting details of breast size were assessed as superior to the divided commercial type. However, wings' tightness of Type I for research pattern brassiere was high. Thus, to improve wearing satisfaction, extra was added to wing. Based on the results of wearing experiments of Type I for research, we adjusted and modified Type II for research pattern. Subsequently, its appearance and wearing were evaluated, in order to be improved. For upper developed breast pattern, we extended the length of lower part to balance upper and lower part, as the upper part was somewhat long. The lower developed breast has the closest feature to the ideal breast, suggestive that implies it does not require much improvement Projecting breast pattern has minimal space in the lower part, so we added the support to lift them to be similar to the ideal breasts. For all the breast shapes, we reduced the wings' tightness from 8% to 7% so that we could extend the length of the wings.