• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.63-79
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• 2011

This study examines the relationship between breast shape and brassiere construction through the comparative analysis of brassiere pattern on the breast shape. This researcher drew the brassiere pattern of developing a pre-study for Chinese female adults according to average size based on the four breast shapes. And then we measures brassiere pattern size and comparatively analyzes breast between size and shape. Comparative analysis results of brassiere patterns are verified differences of size and shape on the breast shape. Above all an angle of cup dart showed remarkable differences on the breast shape. An angle of cup dart isn't proportioned to breast size. An angle of cup dart for cone shape is bigger than dome shape. Because cone shape breast is protruded center part but dome shape breast have a shape of smooth curve like a half globe. So an angle of a cone shape breast cup dart is determined bigger than dome shape breast. For increasing the uplift effect of brassiere, brassiere pattern is different on the breast shape. And a brassiere pattern need different drawing methods about the angle of cup dart, breast inner side diameter, slope and so on. This study has an important significance that it established a mechanical relationship of breast shape and brassiere pattern.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.648-654
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to develops of brassiere pattern for middle school students (15 ages ${\mp}$ 3). In order to design a brassiere pattern, the body surface shell was used as the basic pattern. The foundation pattern and the four-piece brassiere pattern with wire were designed and sewed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The foundation pattern of the size 75A was proved proper for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the base line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plaster mold, the cups of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell, and full side stretch -wings were applied to 8% reduced body size. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items of clothing compensation, body motion, clothing pressure and breasts growth. The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts growth, It was designed to support the breasts firmly, not to press the middle part of them. Simultaneously, this has the advantages that satisfy a characteristic of a figure and the purpose of putting it on.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.95-113
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• 2006

This study was conducted comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere to identify the problems of brassieres on the market. The raw data for this study was processed by SPSS 10.1 version(statistical software) and the results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1) The result of comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere pattern is that each pattern showed no difference. 2) The results of the comparative analysis of juvenile and adult brassiere pattern in wing's length and angle is that even though there are some difference between juvenile and adult in side line inclination of brassiere. there is no setting difference but size of that brassiere. 3) The result of a comparative analysis pattern and cup size measurement of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere is that even though the adult cup girth and angle is bigger than the juvenile because adults have more protrusive and bigger volume and well developed breast, some case rather the adult's cup angle is smaller than the juvenile as brand. And as we grow up to be a woman, difference of lower breast girth and breast girth are become big while difference of upper breast girth and breast girth are become small for that reason upper cup must be lower and lower cup must be higher but there is almost no difference between adult and juvenile. 4) The result of a comparative analysis of juvenile brassiere and adult brassiere bust point of the pattern is that adult brassiere's distance between bust points 6.12cm, and juvenile's 5.6cm, there are only 0.52cm difference between two products and just 0.4cm, size grading. These results are explained that even though when grow up to be a woman the distance between two bust points become to be long and breast toward out side but brassiere size don't vary with body characteristic.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.397-406
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• 2009

A Study on the Development of Brassiere Pattern for Elderly Women The purpose of this study is to develop functional and sensible brassiere for elderly women. For this purpose, 6 elderly women(aged between 65 and 69) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their bressiere wearing. he results were as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of elderly women's bressieres, 90B size was selected and then, their bressiere fitting was tested. The foundation pattern of the size 90A was proved for the body by the wearing tests. Each angle and length of the parts on the basic line of the breasts played an important role on setting the pattern. 2. As based on the body surface shell extracted from a plastic mold(photo.2), the cup of brassiere pattern were applied to the body surface shell(photo.4), and full side stretch-wings were applied to 13% reduced body size. The design pattern of elderly women's brassiers were characterized by a round wired as well as a full cup(3piece) embracing the entire breasts. 3. As the result of the wearing test, the excellence of the experimental brassiere was recognized objectively, with high marks in all the items(fig. 6). The experimental brassiere was covering the whole breasts to cope with change according to breasts loosing. It was designed to support the breasts firmly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.719-730
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassiere therewith, provide for some basic data useful to the brassiere manufacturing which are both functional and fitting. For this purpose, 220 adults women(aged between 20 and 59) were sampled to be measured for their body sizes and tested for their brassiere wearing. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. In order to develop the basic patterns of adult womens brassieres, 75A size was selected out of 12 size combination(3 women per 75A size) and then, their brassiere fitting was tested. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cups bottom line or lower cups top line, poor shape of upper cups outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, n the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps interval did not befit the full-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were address for the second test. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. The basic patterns of adult womens brassieres were characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embracing the entire breasts. Each basic pattern which consisted of upper and lower cups was shaped \"straight(-)\". The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig. 1-2) was 75A of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern. At the second stage, the upper body foundation pattern were used to design lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing in their order.(see fig. 3-5, fig. 8)5, fig. 8)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.31-53
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• 2008

This study is to suggest a brassiere pattern suitable to the Chinese woman by recognizing the differences among the brassiere patterns of Europe, America and Italy by comparison. Collected data was analyzed by using SPSS 12.0. 1. If seeing the length of the ordinary brassiere's wing in Korea, the mean is 31.02cm to be shorter than these 3 patterns. The length of a wing should be adjusted according to the degree of fabric's elasticity. 2. The ESMOD type shows a high angle of $60^{\circ}$ as the position of a shoulder strip is placed outward a lot compared with other patterns. 3. For the FIT and Marangoni types, the lengths of the inside and the external diameters show similarly to each other but the ESMOD type shows that its inside diameter is 7.5cm and external one is 9.6cm to have the difference of 2.1cm so that it is considered to put the bust together stronger than the others. 4. The cup circumference of the FIT pattern shows to be the biggest and that of the FIT pattern is the smallest. As the FIT pattern has the shape to wrap the side of the bust, it has large circumference but as it has a narrow angle of a dart, it seems to be fit to the woman with a small and flat bust. 5. For 1/2 of the nipple distance of the brassiere for the Korean adult women, it shows to be 6.12cm, much narrower than the patterns studied, and it is noticed that the ESMOD pattern is very similar to the brassier in the Korean market. 6. As the mean keeper height is 6.5cm, it is noticed that it is very similar to the brassier for the Korean adult women if comparing that the brassiere for the Korean adult has the keeper height of 6.5-8.6cm. The Marangoni pattern tends to have a little low and the ESMOD and FIT patterns have a ordinary measure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-119
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to dvelop the basic pattern of wome which are fitting for 75A. The collected data were statistcally processed usig the SPSS 10.0 for Mans Standard Deiation, Cronbach's $\alpha$, etc. This study suggested a size chart for body measurement for constructing basic brssiere patterns with size of 75A. The construction of this experimental brassiere were lower cup, upper cup, front panel and wing and characterized by a round cup wired as well as a full cup embrcing the entire breasts. The drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for 75A was completed by selecting a total of 11subjects, and two wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassiere pattern suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.204-214
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• 2019

A CAD program has recently been introduced that can be directly developed into a three-dimensional human body shape and made into a pattern. It is possible to fabricate a bra that reflects the volume and surface area of the breast; however, it still needs to be verified. This study investigates the average size and shape of 20 big-breasted women and designs a brassiere pattern for women with large breasts using a 3D Flattening function of OptiTex PDS v15.6. In addition, the study verifies the reliability of the proposed method compared to a conventional brassiere pattern. The study results are as follows. First, the three dimensional measurement values were smaller than the direct measurement dimensions when the three dimension measurement dimensions of the subjects were compared with the direct measurement dimensions, the replica measurement dimensions and the three dimensional measurement dimensions. Second, the 3D flattening pattern reflects the actual shape, length, and area of the actual breast when comparing a brassiere pattern using a 3D shape and pattern reflecting the direct measurement.