The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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A Study on the Structural Characteristics of Spencer Jacket in Empire Style$(1789{\sim}1820)$

엠파이어 스타일 시대$(1789{\sim}1820)$ 스펜서 재킷의 구성적 특징에 관한 연구

  • Choi, Mi-Kyung (Dept. of Traditional Costume Culture, Jeonju University) ;
  • Jo, Jin-Sook (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womens University) ;
  • Choi, Jin-Hee (Dept. of Traditional Costume Culture, Jeonju University)
  • 최미경 (전주대학교 전통패션문화) ;
  • 조진숙 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 최진희 (전주대학교 전통패션문화)
  • Published : 2006.02.28
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Abstract

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

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